600 horse 4.3 motor help

What parts and upgrades would I need to build a 600 horse 4.3, already have eagle rods and hypereutectic pistons, block is 30 overed already. Decided on 67mm precision turbo. would the crankshaft be able to handle 600 horse? Any information is appreciated about what would need to be done to the motor to safely handle 600 horse. Thank you
 

QWERTYphoon

Motley Driver Award 2009
You can also do a short fill or half fill on the block, nitrate your stock crank. 1.6 rockers, custom camshaft, ported L-35's or Vortech heads. Higher compression 9:5:1 or more.
 

DaveP's Ghost

Well-known member
600 not going to happen with a stock block. It will split in half, especially bored .030. The walls are now only .150 thick. DonW split his block running 12's, so probably about 350 HP. The main bearing capacity won't support much over 400, as proven during validation during the turbo 4.3s development. When NASCAR Truck was running Bowtie blocks, odd-fire forged cranks, and splayed-valve heads based on the Mark IV head, they weren't producing 600 hp either.

Pipe dream. Not going to even get close to even 500. It will blow the fuck up.
 

Mikeysy15

Donating Member
Dave P. Not true . I’m running a stock block at over 30psi with just rods and pistons . Crank and block are stock. I should be In that 550-600hp at the crank . If somebody split a block running 12’s the tune was wrong or it went lean
 

Mikeysy15

Donating Member
Yes , a half fill block and nitraded crank would be better but might as well wait and see how fast he can go in the stock block . I was running high 10’s on a 6262 before I switched to rwd .
 

proptop

Donating Member
Here we go as I am curious where this ends up. Let me get some popcorn and follow this. Yes as mentioned above the stock block will split a cylinder wall (non filled) from shear pressure (Broke one). Do at least a half fill and save yourself issues down the road. Main caps should also be installed or at least change to studs. I would recommend Vortec heads if you have the funds because the chambers in them work really well. The Brodix heads have a few issues (out of the box) I believe but haven't confirmed that yet but working on it. One more recommendation is if you have a GOOD machine shop local Bush the driver side lifters bore to force more oil to the mains. No expert here just stating what I have learned on my research project (Lunch Money). I still do have that block laying in the shop that I would sell locally if anyone is interested. All four billet main caps, studs, 3/4 fill, bush lifter bores, with a sleeve in #four. It will need the sleeve bored and the block honed for final size.
Bob
 

proptop

Donating Member
Mike,
You are more than what is mentioned above I would think. Could be wrong!!!!!!! The real question is how long will it live at that power level. The last time that we ran the little motor at the track (before we broke it street racing). It ran 104 in the 1/8 leaving from a dead idle full weight truck. We wicked it up and then went street racing and that is when we broke the block. Wasn't from a tune up stand point but Pressure got that thing as we were well over 30 Lbs went it let loose. Still ran though was just spitting water when it got up to temp.
Bob
 

Mikeysy15

Donating Member
I agree Bob, but Dave P said not even close to 500hp. Lots of guys in here get 500hp without a problem . That’s 400awp . A 60mm turbo, 60lb injectors, and 23-24lbs On race fuel or e85 will get you that much.
 

Mikeysy15

Donating Member
Not quite . It was 396 but at 22lbs of boost on a dyno dynamics which is about 425whp on a dynojet. That was with the stock upper and lower intake, Tb. At that point I still didn’t know that my motor has upgraded pistons and rods. Ran 10.90 at the power level . The stock actuator was only good to 22psi so I couldn’t turn her up more .
 

Mikeysy15

Donating Member
Here’s the dyno sheet . This was last summer with an ATR air to water top intercooler
 

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proptop

Donating Member
Cam selection depends on a Whole bunch of variables. I would also think that not to many people run a stock cam. I have ran multiple cams in the past on different motor combinations. A good cam choice would be I believe would be the 412 cam that people talk about on here (think that is the number). Do a search should be able to find it. Side note my little motor had a Comp Cam 210/210 500 lift 112 lobe separation in it. Made good vacuum idle great and went 104 in the 1/8 I like mine straight up. If your heads aren't real good on the exhaust flow add a few degrees of duration (210/215). Don't over think the cam because street driven turbo motors normally don't need a big cam.
Bob
 

proptop

Donating Member
One more thing. Just went back and read the original post. I would recommend an internal balancing of the rotating assembly (expensive) but well worth it. Also what is the exhaust wheel that is installed on the 67 mm turbo?
Bob
 

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
I don't see why you couldn't make 600hp with a great tune and fuel. But as stated, how long will that last? It's hard enough to get 300hp to last in these things. I will say regarding heads that the Vortecs are nice but I don't there is much that compares to the Brodix heads. I have been running them on my new build and I, along with every other Brodix owner I know, are very happy with them. Gotta be careful with heads, the Vortecs like to crack between the valve seats, but they do run nice for what they are. I'd build something at a nice 4 to 450 and call it a day. You can pull that off easily with the 67mm.
 
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