Bob,Here we go as I am curious where this ends up. Let me get some popcorn and follow this. Yes as mentioned above the stock block will split a cylinder wall (non filled) from shear pressure (Broke one). Do at least a half fill and save yourself issues down the road. Main caps should also be installed or at least change to studs. I would recommend Vortec heads if you have the funds because the chambers in them work really well. The Brodix heads have a few issues (out of the box) I believe but haven't confirmed that yet but working on it. One more recommendation is if you have a GOOD machine shop local Bush the driver side lifters bore to force more oil to the mains. No expert here just stating what I have learned on my research project (Lunch Money). I still do have that block laying in the shop that I would sell locally if anyone is interested. All four billet main caps, studs, 3/4 fill, bush lifter bores, with a sleeve in #four. It will need the sleeve bored and the block honed for final size.
I’m a new member and new owner. I don’t have any experience with these trucks but have always admired them from the first moment I saw them in the showroom. I’ve always ran naturally aspirated engines. I’m at a handicap on some of the terms used. I see half full and partial full used. Would you mind enlightening me? I decided to ask you as I see you’re a long term member and you seem genuinely interesting keeping people from making a serious error in engine building.