Looking for an ABS Unit for my Syclone

SYCLONEJJJ

New member
My ABS Dashboard Light and Brake Light are on. I can’t get my truck inspected in Austin Texas. 2 mechanics have looked at it, replaced the Master Cylinder and the lights are still on. I bought the ABS Delete kit from sportmachines and its not what I expected. I am looking to get my unit fixed or buy one from someone who has a working unit. My Syclone is all stock, 20,000 miles. I want to keep it stock/original. I also need the mufflers, the bottoms rotted out from

Can anyone help me?

Thanks,
Joe
 
Damn it. I had an ABS unit listed on Ebay for months but never got any bids. I finally got tired of tripping over it in the garage and tossed it out. Sorry bud, I would have given it to you I just honestly thought everyone said they are not worth owning. I did the ABS delete as well from Sports Machines but I didn't have any problems with it. What didn't you like about it?
 

syclone0517

Member
When looking for an ABS unit it's important to remember that the Syclone and 92 Typhoon are unique in that they are a three channel/four sensor system. I believe that the 93 Typhoon went to a three channel/three sensor system. There may have been some Bravada's that came equipped with a four sensor system. The mechanical portion of the BPMV should be the same but the EBCM module portion would be different. It is getting hard to find the proper ABS unit these days. Before spending a bunch of time and money looking for a ABS unit you might want to verify the rest of the system. Front sensors are readily available but the rear sensors are non existent. If anyone on here with deleted systems has some good rear sensors I'd be interested in getting a couple of spares. Some years ago I had trouble with my ABS unit. I was able to bring it back to life by performing a pressure bleed as per service manual. I flushed the system with five quarts of brake fluid. This procedure requires some special tools and a scan tool. In the future when performing brake service, have an assistant apply brake pedal, open bleed screw then force caliper pistons back. This prevents contaminated brake fluid from being forced back up through the system. I think a lot of guys delete these systems because poor parts availability, difficult to maintain and general lack of performance unless your on slippery surfaces. Wheels need to lock up before Abs begins to work. When was the last time you locked up on dry pavement and stock brakes? Personally I'm looking forward to upgrading to a hydraboost system and bigger front calipers. Maybe then the ABS will begin to perform. Best of luck. As for mufflers Dynomax Supper Turbo 17736 is the correct replacement muffler for Syclones
 

SYCLONEJJJ

New member
Hey!
Thanks for your advice, I appreciate it! I had found some documentation on Kelsey-Hayes Company and it said alot of the same thingsyou are saying about the system. I tried to contact them snd they were bought out by TRW, I talked to 4 different people there and they were not interested in trying to help me just simply stating they no longer make those units and basically I was Shit out of luck... They would not do any research to help me to see what other vehicles had the same unit or anything what so ever. They were pure azzholes. The mechanic who replaced the Master Cylinder completely flushed out the system, The pedal is great! Very strong and stops really well but the lights didn’t go away. I haven’t tried to clean those sensors yet, I always felt like I am do anal about keeping my rig clean it couldn’t possibly be adirty sensor lol !! Every time I wash it I literally lay on the ground and wash as much as the undercarriage as I can and since it was only out in the rain once in the 24 years ive owned it, I like to think it’s spotless underneath lol.. I will clean off those sensors though. There’s a guy on here who told me has a unit in his Blazer he would sell me and it looks exactly the same.. I haven’t seen anything that says the Blazer has the same unit though. I’m going to buy it from him regardless just for the simple reason I am desperate for anything to work. I’m not giving up, I have to find something and someone who has it!
Dynomax huh? I thought the stock mufflers were Magnaflow? Good thing I didn’t buy them yet lol.. I wasn’t sure of the inlet and outlet sizes to buy them yet.
Thanks again, I really appreciate the advice !!
Joe
 
If the BRAKE and ANTILOCK lights are both on, there are codes stored. What are they?

Jumper ALDL A (top right) to H (bottom row, second from left). Turn on key. Watch ANTILOCK light. It flashes codes the way the ECM flashes them. Code 14 is "normal" for AWD BPMV's. Just like the ECM, each code flashes 3 times, then the next one. The sequence may not begin at 14. I watch them go by until I see 14, then begin writing until I see 14 again. This way I know I got them all.

For a Syclone, you need to find an ABS unit from a 1991 or 1992 4-door Utility (Blazer Jimmy Bravada) or 1992 2-door Blazer / Jimmy. Only these early years have the 4-sensor electronics compatible with the Syclone and 1992 Typhoon. AND: A 2WD or 4X4 BPMV from these years has to have a jumper wire placed in the 10-pin cavity D from the pnk/wht wire in Cavity A. This places the BPMV in "4WD" mode which is the same as AWD. (Close enough, anyway.) This unit was used in Astro / Safari vans too, but the calibration is inappropriate for SyTy.

It is possible to transfer the forward electronics module (the front 2" of it with the electrical connectors on it) which contains the AWD calibration from your unit to a good working hydraulic portion from any year / model donor vehicle that used the K-H 4WAL system. I have two BPMVs that could be used for this. This tactic will also allow using 93-up and Astro/Safari hydraulic units which expands the population of suitable donor units.

Begin with pulling the codes. There may be a LOT of them. Post them here, and I'll take a look. Only a few codes are "fatal" and require BPMV replacement. Most codes are set by external problems like wheel sensors, grounding of the pipes to the frame, and specifically bad or corroded connections in front of the battery where the big power feed and ground wires for the BPMV connect to the Battery cables.

I've been on SyTy net since 1998. People that understand the ABS have been far and few between. I suspect "techs" in repair shops aren't any different, especially with 25 year old systems. It doesn't surprise me that your guy can't figure it out. Few people over the years have been able to.

Pull the codes. Post back. I'll try to help.
 

SYCLONEJJJ

New member
Hey, Thanks for your help!
I’m out of town until November to get back in my rig but I did use the old scanner I have a while back and it didn’t have any codes. I think it just flashed the ‘12’ which means there aren’t any codes? I think thats the # that says it in the book??
I will do it again when I get back
Thank!
Joe
 
Scanners usually scan the ECM which is A&B. Code 12 is "all clear" in the ECM. You were most likely querying the ECM, and not the BPMV. To get a scanner to communicate with the K-H 4WAL is extremely fussy and requires a special adapter for the scanner. I was able to do it once about 20 years ago using my neighbor's Snap-On scanner. It's easier and more accurate to use light flashes to retrieve the BPMV codes. The BPMV is A&H. Different pair to jumper.

Yes, Code 12 is "normal" for the ECM and BPMVs other than AWD. You have to read my posts carefully. I try to be accurate, and I edit profusely until they are.
In my post I said "Code 14 is "normal" for AWD BPMV's." Code 12 is 2WD (or 4X4 in 2WD) service brake not applied. Code 13 is same as 12, service brake applied. Code 14 is 4X4 in 4-Wheel drive or AWD, sewrvice brake not applied. Code 15 is same as 14, but with service brake applied.


We'll chat again in November.
 
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