Recorded a Datamaster file on Ty that's been stored for a long time

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
Stuff we checked in the 90’s but doesn’t hurt to check again. Wastegate actuator arm was this much off (pics). Diaphragm held pressure well. Zero’d it, so it should be stock boost (cross fingers). Wastegate itself was nice and loose, but I lubed it more anyways while I could.
Someone did mess with the rod length, the clip was bent out as if the person thought it was a cotter pin. None of us messed with it, so it must have been Road Race Engineering. I fixed it, straightened it out and clipped it facing down instead of up n bent to shet. I’ll post the vac fix pics next. Just need to transfer them from my phone...
View attachment 1865347View attachment 1865348
If I recall the rod was adjusted about right. If you adjusted the rod so that it is even with the stud I do not believe that is correct. I would have to see if I can find the correct amount by searching now. It changed once after the original suggested setting. I think in the beginning it was half the stud past the hole on the rod fitting. Then it was changed to a lesser amount, not sure exactly but I believe that the rod was adjusted with like 7/8th of the stud visible in the rod eyelet. So the rod would have to be pull 1/8th distance of the rod further for it to slip on the stud. This is from my old memory so it may be all wrong. But please check unless you already have and know I am full of it.
 

Rexxenexx

Member
I believe you’re correct. I remember something too about preload and a side view pic of the eyelet WAY back in the day. The way I did it yesterday I loosened the jam nut, made It so the left side of the eyelet touched the left side of the stud (holding the wastegate arm closed), turned the eyelet half a turn for some tension, then pulled it over the stud n clipped it. It’s about 3 threads away from the previous setting. Maybe too conservative, but it was so spiky I have to try something different while I had it all open.
The way I checked 20+ years ago, I didn’t know wtf I was doing lol, I bought a mity-vac and pumped the actuator and it moved... looked good to me. I showed my BMW mechanic friend, looked good to him.
 

Rexxenexx

Member
Installed a Cardone ECU and bypassed the wastegate solenoid. Checkout the Drive file. 9.9 PSI WOT before I let off from the pings. I'm just gonna focus on the Autometer gauge because that is what I was watching hit over 9 PSI as recorded. The dash gauge is pure garbage. Yesterday it was @2-3 PSI KOEO OEM (reman.) ECU, @2-3 PSI Cardone ECU, then after the drive I checked an hour later-back to @6 PSI KOEO. Just useless.
Normal driving is still good, no DTCs. Idles smooth. Also ever since I changed the plugs I'm able to start it up 1st try. Not easy as a new car, but @ 5 revs it starts.
I checked out the TurboTweak install guide pdf and it has some good info I can compare with these files. Very useful. That'll be in the future for sure once I figure this out. TT and 3 Bar. I already have a PLX, just need to install it.

EDIT: Added screenshot
Ty_CardoneDrive1_9plusPSI.png
 

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Rexxenexx

Member
Is there any possibility for RPMs to be read by the ECU wrong? I looked at data I recorded today and it barely ever hit 3K. Another one from another day barely hit 2K!?? Impossible right? Just noticed this setting the graph to RPM, Spark Adv., TPS, and Boost.

edit: nevermind, I forgot how cromagnon these engines are.

edit2: I feel like there’s nothing more to do. Everything seems normal. Triple checked the timing again. Been through everything ignitionwise, including multiple plugs. Fuel seems good with the adj FPR and Aeromotive 340. Been through four 91 fill ups already so gas is fresh. Maybe the intercooler isn’t doing it’s job good enough. Still idles fine, cruises fine, and throws no codes.
 
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Slyclone

Active member
Have you checked and doubled checked timing? More I read I think maybe your balancer spun and your timing is off ever so slightly? Isn't it true they get old and dry and can literally SPIN off mark?

All those strange MAP reading could be a inaccurate or incorrect map sensor. I also had a 3 bar and the value was so off, I researched it - found a "better" grade map sensor and bought it. It put my value spot on. Strange? I used racetronix webpage to see what they offer, utilized there part number and found a Delphi grade map for substantially cheaper and less wait time.

I remember reading early on about how it take " 2 " tries to start your truck. I wanted to go out and see what mine would do since it sits long time. I got around to doing it the other day it's been over a month. I asked my dad hey you think this thing going to start right up or you think I'm going to give it a hot shot with the charger. He kinda looked at me and shrugged? After turning key on, waiting for widewand count down it started one try, 2 engine revolution. No need to turn key off and try again.

With scan master you have to set up that your using a 3 bar map. There's is a 2 bar or 3 bar option. Not sure if it's going to change anything on your end but I've missed some small little steps myself and often times re-read to discover.

👍
 

Rexxenexx

Member
A little update. Everything seems to be working well as long as there’s no hard duty on the engine like high boost/ going uphill for too long. I’m pretty sure, other than the normal valve seals needing to be replaced, there is a head gasket leak. Small enough to not drain coolant noticeably, but big enough to get opened up on boost/high cylinder pressure. I think the hard to start cold is this issue. The ping @9 psi is this issue. Just a theory until I get around to opening it up. Which prob won’t be for another couple years. As long as I drive it under 60-70% throttle it’ll drive how I need it to drive. That’s it for now.
 
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