DaveP
Active member
Re: What numbers should be on a TySy block and heads?
I'm not an 'expert' either, but I know a lot about it, mostly self-taught by reading and observing, and trying to make things 'fit'. I've been doing it for quite a while, and it is a VERY big part of what we do in National Corvette Restorers Society, of which I am an active member and judge. The phrase "Matching Numbers" was probably first coined by NCRS members..
So, the date on your front pad doesn't 'fit' the door jamb date on your truck. Because I admit that the 'convention' used by Romulus is un-familiar, I'm sure I've got it wrong. We need input from someone who knows what it is.
Many of the parts on a car have a date on them. A VERY common convention is to use 4 carachters to denote a date. Commonly used as 'casting' dates on heads an blocks. Will look like this:
A051 = January, 05, 1971, 1981 or 1991. Not sure what they're doing about 2001. I'm starting to see "01, 02, 03, etc" to denote the new milennium, but I don't think it's 100% yet. USUALLY, a part doesn't last 2 decades where there could be a choice of year. Particullary a casting, where there is almost always a casting number that will help pick the 'decade' I.e., small block V8 cases. They made them for 47 years, but I can't think of a case # that went over ten years. Actually there is one. The '010' 350 block used in Corvette (and others I'm sure) It was used from 1969 through 1980. The casting dates on these cases would appear identical for the same day in 1980 and 1970. Might help if you're restoring a 1970.
Anyway, for the month A=January, B=february, etc until L(12th letter of the alphabet) = December. Distributors and Alternators do not use the letter 'I', so M= december on these items. But block stamp-pads and casting dates DO use the letter 'I'.
Ok, on your rear pad: The TM8802661 are the last 9 digits of your VIN.
The 'T' is in what's called the 'check digit' position. There is a 'secret' formula that assigns value to each of the other characters in the VIN. The sum of these values will result in a 'check digit'. Can be used in a number of ways to authenticate the VIN. Can't 'fake' a VIN, if you don't know the 'code'.
The M= 1991
The first 8=Shreveport, LA Assy plant (all S/T-10 pick-ups were produced here)
The second 8= An additional 'model' produced at the plant. All SyTys have an 8 in this location, and can be used along with 'D' in the third position, to authenticate a SyTy vin.
The last 5 positions are the sequential number of the 'build'.
So, there's an introduction to VIN and stamp pads.
Cheers,
DaveP
dgoodhue said:My rear pad has TM8802661, I assumed the T was for Tonawanda. Until you mentioned I didn't even realize the front pad had anythin on it. I didn't realize you were talking about the front pad. I double checked the front pad and that is what it is. I don't think that J6 is October, because my truck was built in June. I don't claim to be a number expert by any means.
I'm not an 'expert' either, but I know a lot about it, mostly self-taught by reading and observing, and trying to make things 'fit'. I've been doing it for quite a while, and it is a VERY big part of what we do in National Corvette Restorers Society, of which I am an active member and judge. The phrase "Matching Numbers" was probably first coined by NCRS members..
So, the date on your front pad doesn't 'fit' the door jamb date on your truck. Because I admit that the 'convention' used by Romulus is un-familiar, I'm sure I've got it wrong. We need input from someone who knows what it is.
Many of the parts on a car have a date
A051 = January, 05, 1971, 1981 or 1991. Not sure what they're doing about 2001. I'm starting to see "01, 02, 03, etc" to denote the new milennium, but I don't think it's 100% yet. USUALLY, a part doesn't last 2 decades where there could be a choice of year. Particullary a casting, where there is almost always a casting number that will help pick the 'decade' I.e., small block V8 cases. They made them for 47 years, but I can't think of a case # that went over ten years. Actually there is one. The '010' 350 block used in Corvette (and others I'm sure) It was used from 1969 through 1980. The casting dates on these cases would appear identical for the same day in 1980 and 1970. Might help if you're restoring a 1970.
Anyway, for the month A=January, B=february, etc until L(12th letter of the alphabet) = December. Distributors and Alternators do not use the letter 'I', so M= december on these items. But block stamp-pads and casting dates DO use the letter 'I'.
Ok, on your rear pad: The TM8802661 are the last 9 digits of your VIN.
The 'T' is in what's called the 'check digit' position. There is a 'secret' formula that assigns value to each of the other characters in the VIN. The sum of these values will result in a 'check digit'. Can be used in a number of ways to authenticate the VIN. Can't 'fake' a VIN, if you don't know the 'code'.
The M= 1991
The first 8=Shreveport, LA Assy plant (all S/T-10 pick-ups were produced here)
The second 8= An additional 'model' produced at the plant. All SyTys have an 8 in this location, and can be used along with 'D' in the third position, to authenticate a SyTy vin.
The last 5 positions are the sequential number of the 'build'.
So, there's an introduction to VIN and stamp pads.
Cheers,
DaveP