AC retrofit??

92Ty

New member
Hi everyone

Have anyone tried to retrofit the stock R12 to the newer R14? What is it involve? Is it something you can do at home? I've just went to the dealer and they want $50 just to look at what's wrong. And they said since the Ty is equipped with R12 it is mandatory for them to retrofit with the R14 and it's about $500. So expect to spent about $550 to have AC again. :evil:
 

Coloty

New member
Ummmm..........well I just did the retro fit on my S10 blazer daily driver about a month ago for $70 bucks total. System was fine (ie no compressor failure or leaks) just pretty much out of R12. So went to a shop and had them evacuate and pull a vacuum on it for an hour or so (cost was $40 bucks) then went ot Wally-mart and got the Interdynamics R12 to R134a retro fit kit for $29.99. Screwed on new high side and low side ports.....followed the directions on adding only 80% as much R134a as there was R12. First 2 cans added upside down to charge with the esther oil.....last 1/2 can rightside up. 34 total oz. of R134a (40oz of R12 BTW)..... and has been working like a champ ever since. It was 100 here yesterday and it worked killer. Esther oil is ok to use with the old R12 mineral oil.......the new PAG oils are not. Same system as on the SyTys so I would assume it will work fine. I redid the A/C on my Ty last summer....new Receiver/dryer....compressor.....orifice tube........recharge of R12.........was like $500 for all of it doing the work myself and I wish I would have done the R134a then........HTH
 

just a 6

R.I.P MyClone
Re: AC retrofit??

I strongly recommend to replace the dryer/reciver and the orfice tube if you convert to R-134. I converted mine last week, compressor $170 (leaking), dryer/reciver $60, orfice tube $3.50 and freon $9. I work as a tech so i did it at work.

Side note, if you want your A/C to cool excellent do this:

1. Insulate the dryer/reciver
2. Install a shut off valve on heater hose (GM TSB on that)
3. Install a orfice tube from a 98 Ford Explorer $3.50
4. Install a electric fan infront of condensor, for better A/C cooling on idle and stop and go traffic

These are all mods that i'm going to do in a very near future.

My A/C sucks on idle (no fan), get about 50 degree from vents (full blower) but when i'm going 55-60 mph i get 40 degree from center vent (full blower)



92Ty said:
Hi everyone

Have anyone tried to retrofit the stock R12 to the newer R14? What is it involve? Is it something you can do at home? I've just went to the dealer and they want $50 just to look at what's wrong. And they said since the Ty is equipped with R12 it is mandatory for them to retrofit with the R14 and it's about $500. So expect to spent about $550 to have AC again. :evil:
 

V6 Kompressor

New member
The reason you want to change the accumulator out is that the desicant is not compatible with r-134, or the oil (Usually ester) that comes with the retro kits. I do about a dozen retro's a year now, and you need to make sure that you use only 85% of the weight of r-134 versus the original charge of r-12, or the head (High side) pressure will go too high, and more than likely lock up your compressor... There is 12 oz's of freon, usually in one can and there is 16 oz to the pound... most stickers (usually mounted on the accumulators on gm products) are listed in pounds and ounces... If your compressor ever locks up on a gm/ford product... you are better off changing out the condensor/versus flushing cause the fine particles will clog up your orifice valve/tube, 9 out of 10 times, thus killing the compressor again... there is a filter that helps keep the orifice valve unclogged, but usually there is not enough space to install it... If you have specific questions about this... email me or pm me.. and i'll send you any info that I have on the subject...
 

Typhoon #1133

New member
I just had my filled today with r12. after mutch research that i did, i found out that r 12 will cool better then r134a. I seen where people are having problems with r134a is it is over 95-100 deg out. they said the system even shuts down sometimes. cost me $34 to have it tested and $28 to have it filled. my buddy just changed his car over to R134a, it seems about the same as mine to me. Walmart has there kit on sale for $29.99. and bottles are like $3 each to fill it up. Dont forget to get the oil additve is you change over and get the old r12 out. my ac is pumping out air at 39 deg.
 

Coloty

New member
My A/C is 32 degrees at the vents w/ Max A/C at idle in my garage........R12 and R134a themselves are not compatible.......esther oil is compatible with mineral oil and the old R12 desicants...........trust me..........but if you have some sort of system failure.......by all means you should swap the receiver/dryer and orifice tube while you are there.......but it is not a must. Again, the only thing wrong with mine was the lack of R12 in it....no leaks.... I will certainly try that tip on insulating the dryer too.........thanks for the help
 

just a 6

R.I.P MyClone
What blower speed??????????????????????????



Coloty said:
My A/C is 32 degrees at the vents w/ Max A/C at idle in my garage........R12 and R134a themselves are not compatible.......esther oil is compatible with mineral oil and the old R12 desicants...........trust me..........but if you have some sort of system failure.......by all means you should swap the receiver/dryer and orifice tube while you are there.......but it is not a must. Again, the only thing wrong with mine was the lack of R12 in it....no leaks.... I will certainly try that tip on insulating the dryer too.........thanks for the help
 

V6 Kompressor

New member
You can also under charge a system by a few ounces and get better results with r-134... There is also a $20 automatic self adjusting orifice valve out that is supposed to keep the evap temps cold, but the jury is still out on those.... If you run your blower at a lower speed, your evap temps can get as low as 20 something degrees, until the low pressure switch shuts off the compressor... R-12 still seems to cool the best, and if a system was designed for it, it is still worth the extra bux ($100) to go for it... if you can find it... Auto Zone showed me a new price on r-12/ 30 lb jugs going for $295 now, but they couldn't find any... Might as well been priced at 12 for a buck.... Dumb shitz... :lol:
 
Top