cly #3 problems LONG and technical

KBowman

Donating Member
I bought the Syclone truck with a blown motor and 59xxx
Old engine had #3 piston side melted, two spun mains and 3 spun rod bearings, block was shot, engine was a new gm in 98 I think according to the plate on the block
Installed used engine, trans and transfer
I think it was a typhoon motor because I had to switch fuel rail and lines and a couple of other things
It had a plenum on it that did not say syclone , looked like it was ground off
I used the fuel rail and injector harness from the original motor
I left the intake and injectors that came with the new motor on but used the old plenum
I used the engine harness from the old as the new one was cut

Ok the problems
Noticed a little rough idle but ran ok, no codes, stayed out of the boost due to idle
Noticed that the boost gauge would go into boost with normal driving, even after wiring the waste gate open.

Installed used computer and memcal, I think it might have had the wrong memcal
The stock boost gauge started acting more normal
Checked plugs after 600 miles of normal driving and found all good except for #3 looked like it never hit and #1 looked rich (cyl #3 piston melted on last motor)see above
Checked timing, was ok but have not done a tdc to balancer check yet
Vacume is low on motor. I think was 16.5 and after checking and repairing vacuum harnesses it is around 18 but I think it should be around 20
Fuel pressure ok
Compression test was fine
Had new wires but tried a different plug and wire, the inside of the distributor cap looks like it is hitting consistent on all terminals including #3
I isolated the engine harness from the injector harness and the computer and checked both injector channels for opens, shorts and grounds. I checked resistance on both injector channels with everything plugged in except for the computer all checked fine.
Checked both injector harnesses for opens, shorts and grounds, both harnesses checked ok and the same
Swapped injector harnesses anyway
Swapped #1 and #3 injectors with # 2 and #4
While I had the plenum off I looked at the intake runner gaskets with a mirror and they looked ok
I checked the plugging both pcv holes while engine running to check for an internal vacuum leak and it is ok, I have also checked for external vacume leaks with carb cleaner
I adjusted the valves and checked to make sure # 3 valves were opening all the way to make sure a cam lobe was not worn
After trying these things the problem is still the same with cyl # 1 rich and #3 lean
I still think the truck has had this same problem with the old motor causing the melted piston but am trying to eliminate all possibilities at this point
I still need to do a cly leakdown check on #3
The ecm B circuit wire was melted and some what repaired when I got the truck, it has a 10 amp fuse and runs hot to the touch while the truck is running, probably due to the loose connection on the fuse terminal. I have one I got from the salvage yard but have to put it in. I had put in a new fuel pump when I put the motor in and will try isolating the pump from the ecm b circuit to see if it runs cooler
Could this possibly be related?
It looks like the ground for the injectors are tied into many other grounds from the wiring diagram, I assume that the injectors are switched on the positive side, so my question is can I temporally isolate and run another ground to the injectors to eliminate this as a possibility?
Any other ideas?
TIA, sorry for the book
 

warmpancakes

New member
could be a bad injector driver in the PCM if the probem stays at the same cyl regardless of what injector is there.
 

KBowman

Donating Member
Are there two separate injector drivers , one for each bank? Do they get their power and ground from the same sources? If it is one injector driver for both banks Is it possible that a low power or ground to the injector driver could cause it to show up on only one bank due to it being the bank with the longer part of the injector harness?
 

skata

Donating Member
well have you ever used a injector power tester? i think they're called a "noid" or something like that. you should be able to get at any auto parts store. plug it in place of the injector #3 and see if you get power to the injector. :banghead:
 

KBowman

Donating Member
I have seen and used them before at the dealer. I will try and get one one. This is a good idea to confirm that the electrical part is the problem or not as I pretty much have eliminated the mechanical parts. thanks to everyone
 

KBowman

Donating Member
I bought a set of noid lights from the parts store for 13.00 it is ATD 5538 and it has testers for 6 types of fuel injection. I thought they were a lot more expensive. It is called 6 pc. Electronic Fuel injection Test light set ( Noid light set). My back is out so I will check mine in a few days and post the results. Thanks, Kevin
 

KBowman

Donating Member
I was looking back at my posts and guess I forgot to put resolution.
Here it is a little late.. I had a bad injector. Ohmed ok but I guess it was sticking open. When I put my #50's in my vacume came up to a solid 21.
Miss at idle gone. I guess the problem did not change much when I moved the injectors around because it was all too rich then the computer was trying to lean out all the injectors to compensate. A bad injector can cause a low vacume situation. 40 psi even though it is a small spray, if the injector stuck open some it will change motor vacume readings.
 
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