Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: engine gurus help please
I don't know about "on top of each other" but if you read Dave's posts the cap notch goes on the same side of the block as the block notch. They are next to each other but not on top of each other. You have no assembly choice with the rear main. Look at it for an example.
Caps can and do get assembled backwards. Once you the torque the caps spin the crank. It should turn very easy by hand. My first machinist wasn't all that red hot either. Turns out he did the two deck heights a few thou different.
Years ago I was assembling a truck engine and the crank would not turn. Period. Started taking caps off one by one. Got to the end, still wouldn't turn. Turned out that one of the upper shells (engine upside down for assembly) was the next size down. .020 instead of .010 or whatever. JUST THAT shell, its mate in the cap was correct. It was packaged that way. Weird stuff happens.
And by tang you mean the notch for the bearing? Both notches on the block and cap are on top of each other. Is that correct?
I don't know about "on top of each other" but if you read Dave's posts the cap notch goes on the same side of the block as the block notch. They are next to each other but not on top of each other. You have no assembly choice with the rear main. Look at it for an example.
Caps can and do get assembled backwards. Once you the torque the caps spin the crank. It should turn very easy by hand. My first machinist wasn't all that red hot either. Turns out he did the two deck heights a few thou different.
Years ago I was assembling a truck engine and the crank would not turn. Period. Started taking caps off one by one. Got to the end, still wouldn't turn. Turned out that one of the upper shells (engine upside down for assembly) was the next size down. .020 instead of .010 or whatever. JUST THAT shell, its mate in the cap was correct. It was packaged that way. Weird stuff happens.