Help-Driver Door Lock

[93 Black/Blk TY]

My 93 Ty has had a problem for years with the drivers door lock only working intermittently but only to the lock position. The unlock works every time. It does not matter if you use the switch on the door or the remote transmitter.

I replaced the accuator, then the door relay switch. Neither one solved the problem. I have power to both sides of the accuator but the voltage on the reverse to lock the drivers door drops to 5.32v v.s. 10.9v for the reverse on the passanger side.

I have removed the remote receiver from the center console and with it removed, the left door does not work at all.

My throught are that mabe the voltage loss is through the remote receiver.

I am getting very flustrated with this problem. Does anyone have this problem? Does anyone know how to solve this problem? Is there any site with info on this problem?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
93 Black/Blk TY - Garry

 

[just a 6]

I have a simular problem with my Sy, i can lock doors with switch or remote alarm, if i unlock only the switch is working or if i use the remote alarm button only the driver door unlocks. And the pass switch is inop if you want to unlock, locking doors with pass swich works fine. I have the same problem that i only get about 8-10 volt during switch operation. I thought i had bad actuators but if there is more people out there with same problem maybe there is something else wrong?

The lever thing inside the door (90* angle) for operating the lock is kind of flakey and not very reliable, i thought of installing some after market stronger actuators directly to the latch, that way the actuators don't have to move the rod and button = less strain on actuators.

On 2002-02-06 21:20, 93 Black/Blk TY wrote:
My 93 Ty has had a problem for years with the drivers door lock only working intermittently but only to the lock position. The unlock works every time. It does not matter if you use the switch on the door or the remote transmitter.

I replaced the accuator, then the door relay switch. Neither one solved the problem. I have power to both sides of the accuator but the voltage on the reverse to lock the drivers door drops to 5.32v v.s. 10.9v for the reverse on the passanger side.

I have removed the remote receiver from the center console and with it removed, the left door does not work at all.

My throught are that mabe the voltage loss is through the remote receiver.

I am getting very flustrated with this problem. Does anyone have this problem? Does anyone know how to solve this problem? Is there any site with info on this problem?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
93 Black/Blk TY - Garry

_________________
Swede///
Sy #2550 100K

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: swede on 2002-02-06 21:38 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: swede on 2002-02-06 21:39 ]</font>

 

[93 Black/Blk TY]

Thanks for the response.

I think that the problem might be a fault of the receiver in the back of the console. It appears that the system works through this receiver and maybe the loss voltage is due to the wiring to and from this receiver.

I hope someone else has solved this problem.
Garry

 

[just a 6]

Well sense i don't have factory key-less entry, i guess i don't have a reciver in the back of the consol???? Or do i????
I have a 10g wire straight from battery supplying the relays for my alarm key-less entry. And still loosing voltage, i thought of maybe there is some kind of loss in voltage on the way to the actuators? Sense the pass switch only works on locking maybe there is some kind of half a$$ short in the switch causing a voltage drop??? I haven't had time to do any diagnostic yet.

On 2002-02-06 21:44, 93 Black/Blk TY wrote:
Thanks for the response.

I think that the problem might be a fault of the receiver in the back of the console. It appears that the system works through this receiver and maybe the loss voltage is due to the wiring to and from this receiver.

I hope someone else has solved this problem.
Garry

 

[Carnut16]

I have a problem with the key-less remote. Both of mine have new batteries, but only work every now and then. Does anyone have this problem or know what is causing it?

 

[93 Black/Blk TY]

I think I am getting to the bottom of this Keyless Entry Fobs. I followed the GM diagnostic proceedures and this proceedure shows the receiver is bad. It had a test of the brown wire to ground at the receiver and if the door lock, "Locked" then the receiver was bad. The LH door lock worked everytime with the brown wire grounded. I am ordering a new receiver tomorrow.
Next problem is that the book calls for part #22570656 which has been superseded by part #10156107 and the receiver has a part number on it #15672091 that has been superseded by part #10063538. I find that #10156107 is for a "Console, Thphoon, Lock Actuator" and that part #10063538 is for "Console, Oldsmobile, Receiver". This might be a problem. I will let you know which one fixed the problem.
Garry

 

[93 Black/Blk TY]

Update:
The receiver that was in the Typhoon was for a Old's. Bravada. I tried a new one on Friday and it did not work. (Same Problem) I have special ordered the part number for Typhoon and it will be here Monday.
Stay tuned, for final results.

 

[93 Black/Blk TY]

PLOBLEM SOLVED.
The Receiver in the book is WRONG for my 93 Typhoon. The correct receiver is the part number of the one that was in the car. The wire diagram in the book showing a double connector going to the receiver is incorrect.
NOW,
DON'T BUY A NEW RECEIVER IF YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM. I fixed my old one and saved $140 to $200 on the part.
All you need to do is open the receiver and clean the contacts on the relay. I also aligned the "points" or contacts so they meet properly. I worked on cars that had points and condenser in the old days.
I figured out the problem by tapping the receiver on the metal part of the console and the DRIVER Door would then lock.
What a pain in the ASS. I have every GM tech in Oregon working on this stupid problem. The real cause was the new receiver I purchased last week was also defective and that started me down the wrong path to solve the problem. Although, it did save me a lot of money in the long run.
LOL everyone,
Garry