New fuel pump
- Thread starter stariy
- Start date
Captain Morgan
Moderated User
here is the sytyarchives how to for a Ty: http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=ty_fuel_pump.php&dir=engine
i believe the easiest way on a Syclone is to remove the bed.
i believe the easiest way on a Syclone is to remove the bed.
Get out the WD 40
Get out the WD 40
hi there,
yea, six bolts gets the bed off the truck.
but first, right now, go out to the truck and spray the hell out of the fittings on the top of the tank with WD 40 or the like. the ugly part of this job is not destroying the lines into the tank. in the first series S-10's the lines are metal to metal and they have grown real found of each other. the hope is that the lubricant will make it possible with two wrenches to seperate the gas lines from the tank.
(i'm one for two, both with the bed off) i shudder to think about trying it from below. the gas lines do not have the length or flexibility.
when the lines are off, use a piece of brass or copper to release the lock ring that holds the sending unit/fuel pump assembly into the tank. i would not undertake the job without a new lock ring. it starts out rusty and ugly and comes out mangled and ugly. and for sure, you dont want to have to take the bed off again.;
three of us lifted the bed and carried it back about three feet and set the rear on a 55 gal drum. i cannot remember, but part of the rear bumper assembly has to come off as well.
it is a good idea to have the tank professionally cleaned or buy a new one. i paid about $110 for a new tank. i paid $108 for a new walbro 255liter pump. (it made a big difference, first time i got on it after the new pump, it wanted to go sideways with the extra power)
with the pump out of the tank is is a piece of cake.
think of it as an all day project if nothing too serious goes wrong.
if you damage the gas lines on top of the tank, you gotta use steel to steel fittings. anything less may make an exciting fire and bang (boom).
hope that helps. been there done that.
peter
sy
zr2
nyc
Get out the WD 40
hi there,
yea, six bolts gets the bed off the truck.
but first, right now, go out to the truck and spray the hell out of the fittings on the top of the tank with WD 40 or the like. the ugly part of this job is not destroying the lines into the tank. in the first series S-10's the lines are metal to metal and they have grown real found of each other. the hope is that the lubricant will make it possible with two wrenches to seperate the gas lines from the tank.
(i'm one for two, both with the bed off) i shudder to think about trying it from below. the gas lines do not have the length or flexibility.
when the lines are off, use a piece of brass or copper to release the lock ring that holds the sending unit/fuel pump assembly into the tank. i would not undertake the job without a new lock ring. it starts out rusty and ugly and comes out mangled and ugly. and for sure, you dont want to have to take the bed off again.;
three of us lifted the bed and carried it back about three feet and set the rear on a 55 gal drum. i cannot remember, but part of the rear bumper assembly has to come off as well.
it is a good idea to have the tank professionally cleaned or buy a new one. i paid about $110 for a new tank. i paid $108 for a new walbro 255liter pump. (it made a big difference, first time i got on it after the new pump, it wanted to go sideways with the extra power)
with the pump out of the tank is is a piece of cake.
think of it as an all day project if nothing too serious goes wrong.
if you damage the gas lines on top of the tank, you gotta use steel to steel fittings. anything less may make an exciting fire and bang (boom).
hope that helps. been there done that.
peter
sy
zr2
nyc
syclonekid43
New member
2 fuel lines, the hoses on the filler neck, plug going to the fuel pump, two bolts for the metal straps. you done
Captain Morgan
Moderated User
stariy said:
your favorite GM dealership
Syclone#1992
SyTy.net Moderator
NJTy180 said:
Murray's or any auto parts store has them.
Read this: http://www.sytyarchives.com/howto/viewarticle.php?article_name=bed_removal.php&dir=exterior
That helped me a lot.
SY2932
Administrator
The lock ring can be had from your favorite "stealership" for about $5 part number 25124032.
I would recommend at least three people to lift the bed off. The bed weighs 198 pounds by itself with the tail gate adding another 32 pounds for 230 pounds total. There are two ground wires. One is by the fuel filler neck attached to the underside of the bed. And the other is attached by the rollpan to the frame. On this ground, there should be a plastic clip that holds it to the frame. Remove the plastic clip that holds the ground wire to the frame or else the bed will get snagged by the ground wire. When you reattach these grounds, I would recommend wire brushing where they attach and giving the area a liberal coating of grease. Loose grounds can/will give you intermittent problems that can be a royal pain to trace.
Before you remove the lock ring, blow off the top of the tank with compressed air to keep all the dirt from falling into your tank. Water Displacement 40th attempt (how WD-40 got it's name) will work good but, PB Blaster will work best. I have used it on two syclones and one typhoon fuel pump swap with great success. Make sure you Give it a few minutes to penetrate. When you put everything back together, coat the top of the fuel sending unit/lock ring with a good coat of grease. This will help keep corrosion in check for the next time you have to get in there...
As far as the fuel pump goes, be sure to "loose" the pulsator. It's a metal/plastic deal that hangs on the side of the fuel pump. It looks like a mini brake master cylinder. It's *supposed* to dampen the vibrations of the pump and quiet it's operation. But it can cause pressure problems so, just get rid of it. Your new fuel pump should include a short length of rubber hose and two hose clamps for this purpose. You will notice a very pronounced whine to your pump after you get it installed. Don't be alarmed it's the sound of a high pressure fuel pump pumping happily away. The absence of that sound will let you know that you need to do this "dance" again.
BTW, don't forget about the three screws that hold the fuel filler tube to the side of the bed behind the fuel door. The bolts that hold the bed on can be a chore to remove. A light coating of grease will help with installation and future removal. Make sure that you have something to set the bed on after you take it off. 55 gallon drums, saw horses, etc. If you set the bed down on the cladding, it WILL break it!
Lastly, with the bed off it's the perfect opportunity to clean some areas that never see the light of day. I pressure washed my frame as well as the back of the cab and front of the box. The cab and box then got a HUGE coat of wax. FWIW, Ron Gregory in Garland TX is the syty Walbro fuel pump/Jabsco IC pump guru. Check him out here: http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ HTH's
Mike Campbell
I would recommend at least three people to lift the bed off. The bed weighs 198 pounds by itself with the tail gate adding another 32 pounds for 230 pounds total. There are two ground wires. One is by the fuel filler neck attached to the underside of the bed. And the other is attached by the rollpan to the frame. On this ground, there should be a plastic clip that holds it to the frame. Remove the plastic clip that holds the ground wire to the frame or else the bed will get snagged by the ground wire. When you reattach these grounds, I would recommend wire brushing where they attach and giving the area a liberal coating of grease. Loose grounds can/will give you intermittent problems that can be a royal pain to trace.
Before you remove the lock ring, blow off the top of the tank with compressed air to keep all the dirt from falling into your tank. Water Displacement 40th attempt (how WD-40 got it's name) will work good but, PB Blaster will work best. I have used it on two syclones and one typhoon fuel pump swap with great success. Make sure you Give it a few minutes to penetrate. When you put everything back together, coat the top of the fuel sending unit/lock ring with a good coat of grease. This will help keep corrosion in check for the next time you have to get in there...
As far as the fuel pump goes, be sure to "loose" the pulsator. It's a metal/plastic deal that hangs on the side of the fuel pump. It looks like a mini brake master cylinder. It's *supposed* to dampen the vibrations of the pump and quiet it's operation. But it can cause pressure problems so, just get rid of it. Your new fuel pump should include a short length of rubber hose and two hose clamps for this purpose. You will notice a very pronounced whine to your pump after you get it installed. Don't be alarmed it's the sound of a high pressure fuel pump pumping happily away. The absence of that sound will let you know that you need to do this "dance" again.
BTW, don't forget about the three screws that hold the fuel filler tube to the side of the bed behind the fuel door. The bolts that hold the bed on can be a chore to remove. A light coating of grease will help with installation and future removal. Make sure that you have something to set the bed on after you take it off. 55 gallon drums, saw horses, etc. If you set the bed down on the cladding, it WILL break it!
Lastly, with the bed off it's the perfect opportunity to clean some areas that never see the light of day. I pressure washed my frame as well as the back of the cab and front of the box. The cab and box then got a HUGE coat of wax. FWIW, Ron Gregory in Garland TX is the syty Walbro fuel pump/Jabsco IC pump guru. Check him out here: http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ HTH's
Mike Campbell
I belive this is the easiest way to do a Sy, but i might be wrong 
http://webpages.charter.net/syclone2550/fuel.htm
http://webpages.charter.net/syclone2550/fuel.htm
NJTy180 said:
My Sy bed is pretty banged up - previous owner toted cinder blocks - so you might not want to do this. Cut a hole in the bed over the tank fittings - real easy to get at fittings, easy access for "next time"......there *always* sems to be a "next time"... Pix and measurements if desired. The bed mat I use covers it nicely.
FWIW, 2¢ worth, etc.
FWIW, 2¢ worth, etc.
SY2932
Administrator
What grommets are you speaking of? Anything that can be replaced that came with your new fuel pump should be just to be safe. As fas as cutting any wires don't remember having to cut anything... Used nylon cable ties to tie everything up so it was out of the way.
Forgot one thing in my previous post. When you bolt your roll pan back on, snug the bolts up first before you crank them down. That way you can make sure the roll pan is centered and even across the back under the tailgate. HTH's
Mike Campbell
Forgot one thing in my previous post. When you bolt your roll pan back on, snug the bolts up first before you crank them down. That way you can make sure the roll pan is centered and even across the back under the tailgate. HTH's
Mike Campbell
InvisiBill
Active member
Doh, sounds like I'm a little late, but I'd recommend a Racetronix harness or equivalent. Theirs is plug 'n' play with factory connectors. It goes between the factory wiring and the pump, and hooks directly to the alternator. The stock circuit is used to turn on a relay, which then allows the pump to get its power directly from the alternator. This is supposed to give higher voltage at WOT, but I did it to reduce strain on the stock wiring. A lot of people recommend (require) using a bigger ECM-B fuse if you run a Walbro off the stock circuit...
If anyone interested: here is how I did it
after finish (cane of black spray paint is in order)
Here are tools and supplies
Dremel tool with grinder
Cutoff wheel for dremel
Piece of metal
and riveter (i am sure you all have seeing one)
Let me know if you interested in more details
after finish (cane of black spray paint is in order)
Here are tools and supplies
Dremel tool with grinder
Cutoff wheel for dremel
Piece of metal
and riveter (i am sure you all have seeing one)
Let me know if you interested in more details