Oil Change

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Oil Change

Oil change about every 6 months. Filter more often and I cut it each time. Just for the peace of mind.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Oil Change

Along Dave's lines we used to run engines on propane. Absolutely -0-, nada, contaminates of any kind. You can almost never change the oil. Whatever you add keeps it semi fresh. Change the filter occasionally. You can take a propane engine apart with 100,000 miles on it an will look like it went together yesterday. The downside is it's really hard on exhaust valves but especially seats. With hard seats, which virtually every engine has these days, a propane engine will run for a very long time.
 

T-Bone

Active member
Re: Oil Change

.....But just sitting, without being started, doesn't deteriorate the oil in the sump. It doesn't have a shelf-life.

My brother has a Roush 427R S3 that keeps track of oil life. The car accumulates maybe 30 miles in 6 months but the computer tracks mileage and time. Therefore, every 6 months it reflects a oil change due so off he goes to the Roush dealer for a $89 full synthetic oil change.

I have repeatedly stated a car sitting has minimal to no effect on the viscosity of the oil but he doesn't agree. In the end, it is his time and money though :dunno:
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Oil Change

Ya, my 05 Trailblazer with I6 has monitoring. Haven't seen the light come on and I take the "oil life" down to the teens % wise, never single digits. Ends up being about 6-8 months. Oil stays pretty clean. I use non-synthetic 10W-30 the 5W stuff scares me. I've read of a few of these engines with failed bearings. One wonders if it's the light oil. Right now that oil is 9 mos old and the light is not on.
 

blackty

Active member
Re: Oil Change

I read the majority of the article and was quite surprised as well. Will be switching oils in 3 of our 5 vehicles. Thanks, Don...Jim
 
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Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Oil Change

@DaveP - Wow... I might go straight 30W now

Might read my post first. (I'm waiting patiently for Dave's response:rotf:) Dave's Power Stroke needs multi-grade for the weird injection system it has. Years ago straight 30wt was all we ran. "Truck" multi-grade wasn't even available. The lazy warm-up is the key. Whither you let it idle or take the long way to the fwy on ramp.

I'm rather picky with the Sy since I run 20w50. Water temps have to be near normal even before I get on the fwy. Oil temps are actually a better indicator than water temp. Haven't installed one yet though.

Ever seen a diesel make white smoke on startup or before it's warm? That's un-burnt fuel. IMO, idling to warm up a diesel promotes dilution. Hence I would suggest driving under light load which, although not perfect by any means, promotes cleaner burning. The newer diesels are much, much better thanks to "common rail" fuel systems running at or near 30,000 psi.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Oil Change

Of course. Just get a big wad of paper towels and cover everything down in that corner. The be careful. Use a little Breakclean to cleanup. That's the way I do it anyway.
 

Ty1642

Member
Re: Oil Change

You can also cut the top off a 2-liter soda bottle or something similar and wedge it under the filter before removing it.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Oil Change

If you choose to do it with the motor cold you probably won't spill a drop. If yur careful.
 

chuckoslovakia

New member
Re: Oil Change

I used a plastic grocery bag underneath the filter to spin it off and catch everything. Didn't have a single drop go into the engine bay, all caught in the bag.
 
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