Oil hose question FIXED

[Don W.]

Found a new one in town, on Sunday, 82.00. But no freight and no wait.

Thanks for all the comments.

The return line to the block runs flippin close to the exhaust so I added a little insulation. Before you ask I purposely did not insulate the other line as I want the oil going to the filter to be fairly hot so it filters better. I know, picky picky, but that my story and I'm sticking to it.:rotf:

 

[TYTILIDIE]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

I spent $80 replacing mine from Gm. I wouldnt waste the time and money on a shop, although I suppose it could be cheaper.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

Ya Mike I tend to agree. Looking like everyone (hyd shop and dealers) is closed today anyway so I'll see what happens Monday.

Thanks.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

Thanks Dave,

Although the dealer I use is great their prices aren't so I check on this. 'preciate it.

 

[berzerker]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

the dorman hoses are availible thru carquest for around $ 45.00, don is this the hoses that run to the engine block ? if so i feel for u . it's not a fun job to tackle . when mine went south i just cut the hoses out and relocated the filter to the block .

 

[Don W.]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

Ya, two issues to deal with. Getting the bolt out at the block adapter and then snaking the thing out. The way I did it was to snake a 3/8 20" extension w/socket up from back to front. This puts the ratchet clear up by the fan shroud. If it's tight like mine I stabilized the ratchet from underneath and had my son push on the ratchet from the side (wheel well off for all of this of course) and out it came. Once loose you can turn the bolt with your fingers.

After it's loose you can actually work the thing out. I suspect it will be a bit more difficult to get back in. Primarily concerned with getting the "O" rings back in 'cuz it's hard to see.

HTH someone who might be doing this soon. I actually have another OEM assem. but don't want to risk it leaking also. 'sides they tend to wear where they are held by the support near the power steering = major leak if it ever wore through. :tdown:

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

I can't remember the details, but once the OEM hoses are out isn't it best to go with the modded adapter and braided hoses from E-Rue? I thought I had heard someone (Cloneman315??) mention that was the way to go.. maybe just a bit more $$ than the factory setup.. does anyone remember the details?

 

[TYTILIDIE]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

This is a PITA job to do. I remember doing mine, took almost as long as trans r&r. I ditched the whole thing but I'm sure we wont talk you in to that one huh Don.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

This is a PITA job to do. I remember doing mine, took almost as long as trans r&r. I ditched the whole thing but I'm sure we wont talk you in to that one huh Don.

Well no... :roll: However I wonder what everyone's complaining about. Once you have the inner fender out, which ain't that hard, it's not that bad. :? Much rather do this than, for example, a water pump, or, worse, a PS pump. Yuk.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Oil hose question FIXED

TTT for pics

 

[Chest Rockwell]

Re: Oil hose question FIXED

Don, what needs to be removed/moved to do this? I need to replace mine, but if I have to pull a bunch of stuff, I might just keep a close eye on the leak and keep putting it off. Pics of the procedure?

 

[Don W.]

Re: Oil hose question FIXED

No real pics. The drivers fender well has to come out. Takes a little time with cruise and ABS, if installed. If you back up to post 7 you'll see my thoughts on it. Prolly the most difficult is getting a wrench on the bolt at the block adapter. After that some patience is required as it has to be brought up and out behind the PS return hose. I had the new one in and out 4 or 5 times as I was deciding how to insulate that line.

One thing I haven't mentioned which my throw a wrench into this whole thing. I have solid motor mounts which take up less space then the factory mounts. No clue on how much difference that will make.

 

[Chest Rockwell]

Re: Oil hose question FIXED

Thanks for the replies, looks like I'll be doing it myself soon.

 

[Don W.]

Re: Oil hose question FIXED

In a word. None.

I've done a half dozen of these in stock trucks. I don't remove the inner wheel well. I do use a long extension from up forward, under the motor mount, and to the bolt, with a swivley-socket just like you found works. It still snakes out, and back in, with stock mounts.

I do bend the lines after I have the center bolt tight to position them perfectly in the bracket at the PS pump. That way there's no stress on the aluminum. It's not hard, I don't know what the complaints are about. Even before I had my lift, I could do one of these in about 30 minutes.

If you used the Dorman part, what did you think of it, Don?

I don't know what the complaints are about either. I liked the Dorman part. seems virtually identical to the stock part. The lines where they go by the support bracket need to be bent just a tad but that's not unusual. I remove the fender well mostly because I'm used to it and like the extra room. I can see where you could do it without though. Getting a ratchet on that long extension when there's a lower IC rad in place looks interesting. Maybe a wobble socket then an extension then a flex adapter in the middle with another extension would work. :rotf: Haven't done that in awhile. Have to say I like the flat contained rubber seal gizmo. Had not seen one of those before.

 

[wheels]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

Another thing. The original hose assemblies use a black o-ring, and have a groove around the nipple. 15564870 is the P/N for the early o-rings. The service replacements use a stat-o-seal washer. GM P/N 15701719. They're about the size of a quarter, metal outside, brown neoprene center.

I assume you replaced the adapter-to-block o-ring and gasket when you did the engine. But here's the nmumbers anyway, maybe someone else can use them. The old P/N for the adapter o-ring is 10244496. It has changed, but they can cross it to the new kit that includes the gasket. 88****** something.

:tup:
Dave

So just to be sure, the washer on the right is a direct replacement for the oring on the left?

Like this?

 

[wheels]

Re: Oil hose question

Re: Oil hose question

NO. It is not a replacement per se, unless you are using the replacement oil LINES as well.

Look at the fitting block, and nipples on the oil line assembly. The origional, 1991-93 part has a groove for the o-ring. These line assemblies (like the one in your pic with the stat-o-seal installed on one nipple) must continue to use an o-ring. There isn't enough contact area for the stat-o-seal to make a good seal.

When you install currently-available replacement line assemblies, there is no o-ring groove. The contact area is wider. THESE assemblies use the brown stat-o-seals.

You have to use the correct seal or o-ring depending on which line assembly you're using.

Hopefully you read this in time.

Ok good thing I asked. I had read somewhere that replacement lines are flush with no groove. So it all makes sense now. Thanks Dave.