pulling motor; need advice

[fiveoh]

ok this is a pain in the ass. it is so god damntight under there, my question is how do you get to the top transmissionto block bolt on the drivers side, and any other tricks that might help me.

also am rebuilding, i would like to keep basically stock. but am considering some heads and maybe a cam, so what heads and cam that are inexpensive would work with out programing the computer. by heads i mean a gm set from a different truck that will flow a bit beter and be a direct bolt on, not aftermarket. thx
bryan

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

here is some info...its a sticky at the top of this room. good heads/cam info.

http://www.syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25006

 

[SyTyJedi]

Any head/cam (or airflow) change will require re-tuning which means a new chip. Heads, cam, turbo, injectors, etc. all need tuning.

 

[tbauer03]

go buy a 14mm woble socket and get some extension to get those tranny bolts.

 

[MikeRenz]

i think a ratcheting wrench is the easiest for the top tranny bolts.

 

[ed hess]

what he really means is

get somebody small like me, remove upper intake.

lay across top of motor, put small wrench down there, watch out for that screw from firewall that holds throttle braket inlace thru the firewall, (you will get cut on it) and take it out.

next time i'm gonna cut the end of that stinkin screw off.

ed

 

[Makaveli]

Make absolutely sure you have a good grip on that bolt. Slip off it once, and you're done. I spent HOURS trying to get it out. :fist:

Then I cut it off with a dremel in 15 minutes.

If it's stripped, & you don't have a dremel, give up hope.

 

[Falco]

I'd not put a larger than stock cam into an engine with a stock bottom end... Just an opinion...

Later,

 

[fiveoh]

thanks for the replies, also that link didnt work, so what heads should i get,
i heard there are something off of 92 s-10 or something that can be found at junkyard for 50 bucks or so , what are these heads called?
also does it help to undo the trans crossmember and let the motor/trans
sag to get a better view on the bolts?

 

[OneBadS10]

Why don't you just remove the front clip from the truck and yank the motor and trans as one? is it even possible with the T-Case?

 

[fiveoh]

i thought of that, but would like to avoid it if possible because the r-12 still works grreat

 

[Sy-1177]

Why don't you just remove the front clip from the truck and yank the motor and trans as one? is it even possible with the T-Case?

You need to take the body up about a foot for the bellhousing to clear the firewall/ and oil pan to clear the diff. Thats what I did.

 

[turbodog]

You need to take the body up about a foot for the bellhousing to clear the firewall/ and oil pan to clear the diff. Thats what I did.

Yeah, there are other ways, but a tried-and true method is to remove the body-to-frame bolts, and jack the body up a few inches, then go at it with a wobble-end extension. Just be sure to soak the body-to frame bolts with a rust penetrant (NOT just WD40) for a day or so ahead of time. A rusted bolt can cause the welded nut inside the body to break loose. THEN you have a problem. HTH!

 

[92Typhoon1679]

Just did it last month

Just did it last month

I just did a complete engine change out and left my tranny inside it too me 4 days to do i did it all by my self the Best thing to do is to Remove the instake and the Hood then you can get to the top two bolts removing the exhaust manifods helped out alot too especially getting to the motor mounts. the passanger side tranny bolts are hard you have to remove the starter to get at them and the downpipe the drivers side are Easy, just remove the prop shaft and remote oil thingy and then you car reach them.