R134 conversion?

escofield

New member
Need to charge my AC and wondering what is the cheapest way to do it correctly. I have seen the Kits for $30 but wondering about the oils not being compatable and checking for leaks. Is there a kit for all the new fittings, Orings and what not? and is there any other major updates to be done when changing to R134a? I want to do it right the first time so I dont have problems down the road:lol:

Thanks agian

Eric
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: R134 conversion?

All the orings need to be changed if you are going to do it correctly,& all that itself is a lot of work.
:2cents:
 
Re: R134 conversion?



For $60, you get:






Includes;
(3) 12 oz. Cans "Freeze 12".
(1) Can of "Freeze 12" Stop Leak with UV dye.
(1) Can of "FREEZE 12" Oil Charge
(1) Pocket Thermometer
(1) "IN-LINE" Pressure Test gauge
(1) "TOP-MOUNT" clamp-on can taper with nice "BIG-RED" Handle.
Can taper can also be used on R12 cans. R134a Cans and R22 cans.
(1) R12 charging hose so you can charge R12 systems
(1) Freeze 12 adapter(for charging Freeze 12 systems with the freeze 12 low-side port)
 

NecroWolf

lost marbles member
Re: R134 conversion?

i know to do a proper 134a conversion there is something besides orings that needs changed, if i i remember corectly the heat exchanger in front of the radiater needs changed for a larger one
 

Poconojoe

Donating Member
Re: R134 conversion?

i know to do a proper 134a conversion there is something besides orings that needs changed, if i i remember corectly the heat exchanger in front of the radiater needs changed for a larger one

No just the orfice needes changing along with the O rings and oil, if you go to 134.
 

Nitrous

New member
Re: R134 conversion?

I'm running freeze 12 and it works great! I pay $9.00 a can and have to use my refrigerent license to buy it since EPA started targeting stores selling it. You can do an R134 conversion without changing the o-rings now as long as the o-rings haven't been disturbed, this is why the kit comes without o-rings. I've completed over 100 conversions without changing the o-rings and haven't had any of them return unless the compressor went out or a hose leak from normal wear and tear. I was just lazy on the Syclone and wanted some A/C to get me home the other day so I put the freeze 12 in. There was talk about oil incompatibility issues when the conversions first started stating that ester oil mixed with regular refrigerent oil for R12 would emulsify causing the oil to gel up. I haven't seen this on conversions either but I'll perform a complete line flushing including draining the drier and then I'll put the recommended amount of PAG oil back in the system. Back to the freeze 12, there were issues with this stating that it contains propane which is highly flamable and people were afraid a leak would cause there vcehicle to catch on fire.

It says on the can that it's non-flamable, EPA approved and I haven't found anything in the MSDS to be health threatening except for this:

Chemical Stability: Stable under normal temperatures and pressures.
Conditions to Avoid: Do not expose to heat or store at temperatures above 120 F.
Materials to Avoid: Avoid contact with acidic, basic or oxidizing agents. Avoid contact with alkali or alkaline earth metals.
Hazardous Decomposition Products: Carbon monoxide. Carbon dioxide.
This material can be decomposed by high temperatures forming hydrofluoric acid and possibly carbonyl fluoride.
Hazardous Polymerization: WILL NOT OCCUR

I'm sure the HF concentrations would be low but we use the acid in a manufacturing process called "alkylation," which is increasingly important in producing a high-quality gasoline. Hydrofluoric acid is hazardous and corrosive and, if accidently released, can form a vapor cloud. If released and made contact with the skin it can only be neutralized with calcium glucanate which comes in a gel form or injection to keep it from eating away your bones. I've seen some training films on this stuff and it's pretty wicked! I still ran the freeze12..............
 
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