Syclone Won't Crank

SacDoug

Member
My truck will not crank. When I turn on the ignition the fuel pump comes on. When I turn it further to start the engine, nothing happens. No clicking or anything.

Background
My truck is mostly stock. I did replace the starter with a high torque starter from a newer S10 about 15 years ago. It was doing the same thing last week so I replaced the battery. I checked the battery and it is currently at 80% capacity. It did not immediately start with the new battery. I ended up moving the shifter back and forth a few times and then it started. That made me think it had something to do with a transmission neutral switch.

Today it did not start. I tried moving the shifter again but it did not work this time. I did a general Internet search and found a result that said the transmission neutral switch was on the transmission above the selector arm. I ended up disconnecting the TCC solenoid and jumping the connector. That did not get the engine to start either. I reconnected the TCC. I tapped on the starter several times with a hammer. No luck there either. I did not think that would work since I am not even getting a clicking sound.

Am I looking at a dead starter or some other electrical issue? What should I check next?
 

graham1524

Well-known member
The safety neutral switch is inside the center console in front of the shifter. You could also check grounds, or try hitting the starter with something when someone tries cranking it and that will diagnose the starter issue.
 

TurboDog262

New member
As I recall there was a persistent issue with an ignition wire in the steering column that was bad in a lot of trucks. Mine did it too so I installed a separate starter button. If memory serves it is a purple wire in the column that can be successfully bypassed or replaced.
 

gmemony2

Active member
There's a purple wire coming off the starter that causes issues. You could try replacing the part that's fried from heat before replacing your starter and see if that does it.
 

SacDoug

Member
Thanks to everyone for your input. If replacing the starter does not work, I will look into the purple wire.

I am 90% sure that the problem is the starter. When I turn the key the lights dim and the radio turns off. That tells me there is a large current draw which is exactly what the starter is. That means the juice is getting to the starter. It is just not cranking.

When I install the new starter, I am going to put a thermal blanket around it to protect it from the heat. Hopefully I get more years out of it.
 

SacDoug

Member
I replace the starter today. My truck started right up with the new starter.

Some tips for people in the future replacing the starter:

  • The starter is on the passenger side behind the wheel at the front of the transmission in case you don't know exactly where it is.
  • Tools I used:
    • 14mm and 15mm sockets for the mounting bolts and the nut that connects the big wire. Note: my old starter had a 14mm nut for the big wire. The new one has a 15mm nut. Have both handy just in case.
    • 8mm socket for the small wire
    • 3 inch socket extension
    • Air ratchet (electric will work too): While this is not absolutely necessary, it does makes things much easier to remove and install the nuts attaching the wires to the starter. There is very little room for turning a wrench or ratchet.
    • Jack, jack stands and wheel chocks: standard equipment for jacking up your truck and working under it safely.
  • Consumables used:
    • Silicone grease: Applied to the electrical connections to prevent corrosion
    • Blue thread lock: Optional. Applied to the two mounting bolts
    • 6 x 10 inch heat blanket + lock wire: Optional. I hope this will extend the life of the starter since it appears that heat is radiated directly to the starter from the exhaust.

I only covered the outer edge of the starter with the heat blanket. I did not want to completely encase the starter in it because of past experience. I have wrapped the exhaust in previous cars in exhaust wrap or blankets and it resulted in them rapidly rusting. I believe it is cause by water condensing under the wrap/blanket and not drying out. With half the starter not covered, I hope to avoid any rust problems.

20250125-144625.jpg

I tried to get the lock wire on tighter but that resulted in tearing of the thermal blanket. I settled on this. It is not up to aircraft standards but it works.

20250125-144642.jpg


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Here is the old bad starter
20250125-152458.jpg
 

SacDoug

Member
Did you test the solenoid before replacing the starter?
Yes. With the starter off the truck, I hooked up jumper cables from the battery to the starter, then used a screwdriver to bridge the two big posts. Nothing happened except a spark when the screwdriver touched.
 
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SacDoug

Member
One final note. When I first drove my truck after installing the starter I was surprised to notice the usual smoke and smell from header blanket burn-in. That is normal for when a header blanket or exhaust wrap is installed on an exhaust. I was not expecting it for this install because it was not actually on the exhaust. I assumed it would not get that hot. This is just an indication of how much heat is radiated to the starter. I would highly recommend anyone replacing their starter to install some kind of heat shield with it.
 
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