Re: Thermostat
The thermostat controls minimum temp. The radiator and fan (among other things) controls max temp.
Changing from a 195 or 180 to a 160 will not change max running temp.
At a cold start, the fan is supposed to be strong and makes alot of noise (air movement),
As the veh warms up, the clutch backs off and the fan slows and so does the air movement.
When the temp rises above a certain level, the clutch comes back in to make the fan move more air to cool things down.
The fan is limited to a certain amount of cfm at idle speeds. Moving down the thru way at 75 pushes more air through the radiator than the fan could ever think of.
Based on your descriptions, something has changed within your system efficiency wise.
Fluid level EXACTLY where it always was?
If you change the thermostat again or remove the one you have, test it in a pot of water on the stove to make sure it opens when it is supposed to. Use a good radiator thermometer. You should be able to take the vehicle for a ride with your laptop and watch the temp come up from cold. With a 160 stat, once it gets to approx 165 (depends where your sensor is) you should see it drop like a rock. The rush of cold water from the rad. will drop the temp. This will happen a few times until all the fluid heat soaks and evens out then the stat will stay open and let the water circulate consistantly. Then it is the radiators job to control actual running temp.
Also go out for a ride with your laptop. When the temp gets to 200+, turn on the heat full blast and watch the temp. If it drops considerably, it is a good indicator that the stat is good but the system has a failure somewhere else. (this test is if you have not already done the above listed test)
If your system is clean (you stated you flushed last year but maybe do it again and see how clean the fluid is) and nothing is blocking the air flow, your water pump may not be moving fluid like it did (a bit of an extreme idea as this issue came on quickly). Look at the flow thru the radiator with the cap removed.
I'd still look at the fluid level.
Other things can generate more heat than usual. Running lean, advanced timing, no egr are the first things that come to mind.
HTHs
The thermostat controls minimum temp. The radiator and fan (among other things) controls max temp.
Changing from a 195 or 180 to a 160 will not change max running temp.
At a cold start, the fan is supposed to be strong and makes alot of noise (air movement),
As the veh warms up, the clutch backs off and the fan slows and so does the air movement.
When the temp rises above a certain level, the clutch comes back in to make the fan move more air to cool things down.
The fan is limited to a certain amount of cfm at idle speeds. Moving down the thru way at 75 pushes more air through the radiator than the fan could ever think of.
Based on your descriptions, something has changed within your system efficiency wise.
Fluid level EXACTLY where it always was?
If you change the thermostat again or remove the one you have, test it in a pot of water on the stove to make sure it opens when it is supposed to. Use a good radiator thermometer. You should be able to take the vehicle for a ride with your laptop and watch the temp come up from cold. With a 160 stat, once it gets to approx 165 (depends where your sensor is) you should see it drop like a rock. The rush of cold water from the rad. will drop the temp. This will happen a few times until all the fluid heat soaks and evens out then the stat will stay open and let the water circulate consistantly. Then it is the radiators job to control actual running temp.
Also go out for a ride with your laptop. When the temp gets to 200+, turn on the heat full blast and watch the temp. If it drops considerably, it is a good indicator that the stat is good but the system has a failure somewhere else. (this test is if you have not already done the above listed test)
If your system is clean (you stated you flushed last year but maybe do it again and see how clean the fluid is) and nothing is blocking the air flow, your water pump may not be moving fluid like it did (a bit of an extreme idea as this issue came on quickly). Look at the flow thru the radiator with the cap removed.
I'd still look at the fluid level.
Other things can generate more heat than usual. Running lean, advanced timing, no egr are the first things that come to mind.
HTHs