4l80E +what year
- Thread starter bezerk
- Start date
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80E +what year
1993 is fine.
Your gonna update:
All the pistons to bonded steel except for the 2nd piston.
New A and B shift solenoids
New TCC PWM solenoid
New PCS solenoid (you mod the valvebody when you do this, ask how when you do it).
Update the AFL. Actuator Feed Limit valve. Either Sonnax or Transgo kit.
Check your pressure manifold switch. If it fails the test, replace it.
Transgo HD2 shift kit(I have a special set of instructions if you do the whole KIT).
All new bushings.
Include a wide front stator bushing and no walk rear case bushing.
When you do the "no walk" case bushing, you MUST modify the lube holes in that new 4x4 shaft when you do it. It's in the instructions included with the bushing.
Get an all bronze thrust washer kit.
Put new sealing rings on everything.
Check bushing mating surface on the input shaft for wear.
Check bushing mating surface on the intermediate shaft for wear.
Check the bushing mating surface on the output shaft you use and check the bushing mating surface on the hub that's snap ringged onto the intermediate shaft where the output shaft rides on it. I've found those worn.
Feel down inside the direct drum where the sealing ring surface is for the center support. Any grooves, replace the direct drum. This happens when bushings wear out and lube is cut off or decreased.
There are waved plates in the forward and the direct drum. The early ones MUST be replaced. They are very prone to break.
You want the 12 tooth or high waved plate from the TH400 in both drums. They will NOT fail.
Use the "turbulator" steels in the OVERRUN AND OD.
BW High Energy grays (almost look green/black) when soaked in ATF or the Hoosier Reds throughout. Both are good clutches.
New 34 element sprag on the direct drum to replace the stock 16 element.
If your OVERDRIVE assembly is melted, it's where they ran it without lube with a bad TPS on a diesel truck. If you pull it out and it's melted, replace it with a 1999 and up setup. Much better designed roller clutch and input shaft.
The new input shaft will NOT work in an old overrun clutch assembly. Must be a unit.
New rear band and new front band. You don't necessarily need a wide new band. This band is ONLY use in manual second. It is not used in D or OD lever positions.
Lots of differences inside but nothing that you can't do and it's relative inexpensive to do since your rebuilding it anyway.
You'll be very happy if you do these to it. It will essentially become a new trans.
Bead blast the case after cleaning it with virgin glass bead. Clear coat it with a clear ceramic, let it dry, then douch the inside with hot water, hit it with a light degreaser and use a nylon bristle brush and clean the case out really good. Valvebody and interior. Air gun it again. DON'T PUT WATER ON A FRESHLY GLASS BEADED CASE!! It will be very porous and ruin the finish as the water soaks in and makes hard water rings. This process makes them look beautiful. FLP started doing this after I posted up pics and what I used. It just makes a VERY attractive product. Look at Jeremy Donovich's for an example.
I've built dozens and dozens and dozens of these over the years. This will prove a good working product.
1993 is fine.
Your gonna update:
All the pistons to bonded steel except for the 2nd piston.
New A and B shift solenoids
New TCC PWM solenoid
New PCS solenoid (you mod the valvebody when you do this, ask how when you do it).
Update the AFL. Actuator Feed Limit valve. Either Sonnax or Transgo kit.
Check your pressure manifold switch. If it fails the test, replace it.
Transgo HD2 shift kit(I have a special set of instructions if you do the whole KIT).
All new bushings.
Include a wide front stator bushing and no walk rear case bushing.
When you do the "no walk" case bushing, you MUST modify the lube holes in that new 4x4 shaft when you do it. It's in the instructions included with the bushing.
Get an all bronze thrust washer kit.
Put new sealing rings on everything.
Check bushing mating surface on the input shaft for wear.
Check bushing mating surface on the intermediate shaft for wear.
Check the bushing mating surface on the output shaft you use and check the bushing mating surface on the hub that's snap ringged onto the intermediate shaft where the output shaft rides on it. I've found those worn.
Feel down inside the direct drum where the sealing ring surface is for the center support. Any grooves, replace the direct drum. This happens when bushings wear out and lube is cut off or decreased.
There are waved plates in the forward and the direct drum. The early ones MUST be replaced. They are very prone to break.
You want the 12 tooth or high waved plate from the TH400 in both drums. They will NOT fail.
Use the "turbulator" steels in the OVERRUN AND OD.
BW High Energy grays (almost look green/black) when soaked in ATF or the Hoosier Reds throughout. Both are good clutches.
New 34 element sprag on the direct drum to replace the stock 16 element.
If your OVERDRIVE assembly is melted, it's where they ran it without lube with a bad TPS on a diesel truck. If you pull it out and it's melted, replace it with a 1999 and up setup. Much better designed roller clutch and input shaft.
The new input shaft will NOT work in an old overrun clutch assembly. Must be a unit.
New rear band and new front band. You don't necessarily need a wide new band. This band is ONLY use in manual second. It is not used in D or OD lever positions.
Lots of differences inside but nothing that you can't do and it's relative inexpensive to do since your rebuilding it anyway.
You'll be very happy if you do these to it. It will essentially become a new trans.
Bead blast the case after cleaning it with virgin glass bead. Clear coat it with a clear ceramic, let it dry, then douch the inside with hot water, hit it with a light degreaser and use a nylon bristle brush and clean the case out really good. Valvebody and interior. Air gun it again. DON'T PUT WATER ON A FRESHLY GLASS BEADED CASE!! It will be very porous and ruin the finish as the water soaks in and makes hard water rings. This process makes them look beautiful. FLP started doing this after I posted up pics and what I used. It just makes a VERY attractive product. Look at Jeremy Donovich's for an example.
I've built dozens and dozens and dozens of these over the years. This will prove a good working product.
Last edited:
![Quickstop [UK]](/data/avatars/m/5/5165.jpg?1570199786){kind=avatar}
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 4l80E +what year
get that one then upgrade it dude.
George - neat write up as to what needs to be done :tup:
get that one then upgrade it dude.
George - neat write up as to what needs to be done :tup:
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80E +what year
How much newer is the newer one?
If its a 1999, then go with it.
If not, just update your old one. The updates will cost less than the $400 difference.
How much newer is the newer one?
If its a 1999, then go with it.
If not, just update your old one. The updates will cost less than the $400 difference.
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 4l80E +what year
George will sell the correct kit for the conversion - you'll be good. You getting the compushift setup?
George will sell the correct kit for the conversion - you'll be good. You getting the compushift setup?
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80E +what year
If you can get the 4wd, you can do the upgraded input shaft for the transfer case.
If you want to do the cut down shaft, I have some of those left as well but the 32 spline setup is what just about everyone does now.
If you can get the 4wd, you can do the upgraded input shaft for the transfer case.
If you want to do the cut down shaft, I have some of those left as well but the 32 spline setup is what just about everyone does now.
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80E +what year
Seating the seals on the OD crown.
Seating the clutches and steels in the overrun clutch drum. Fun fun fun.
Seating the clutches of the forward drum into the 3rd clutches.
Seating 3rd gear drum sprag into the 2nd gear clutches. About 7 times out of 10 they fall in. The other 3, kick your butt.
Sometimes the reverse band can be a pain getting it in.
Rest of it is no big deal and most of the time these aren't that bad either (except the OD crown <---- that sucks).
It's ok if its a 2wd. It will have the reluctor ring on the planetary so you can plug it in for TOSS signal easier. You'll either have to change the output shaft for the cut down 27 spline or swap the current output shaft for a 4 wheel drive version. If it's a long spline you can just cut the end off. When you get a chance, put up a pic and we'll let you know if you can use it or not as it is. Building one is no big deal when you TAKE YOUR TIME. There will be a few frustrating parts but there always is. My personal favorites:it's a 2wd thing. well. i'm a dutchie and i will stay a dutchiejust doing this for the fun part. have the stuff, learn about trannies and keep it a bit budget. thanks george. looks like we will do busines in a short time notice.
Seating the seals on the OD crown.
Seating the clutches and steels in the overrun clutch drum. Fun fun fun.
Seating the clutches of the forward drum into the 3rd clutches.
Seating 3rd gear drum sprag into the 2nd gear clutches. About 7 times out of 10 they fall in. The other 3, kick your butt.
Sometimes the reverse band can be a pain getting it in.
Rest of it is no big deal and most of the time these aren't that bad either (except the OD crown <---- that sucks).