New problem to solve for 60'

[10secTy]

I finally made it back to the track this sunday. On my first pass the truck did the following.

60' 1.615
330' 4.485
1/8 6.926
MPH 99.96
1000 9.070
1/4 10.914
mph 121.26

I let off at the 1000 foot mark as the boost was starting to creep past 32psi and this was the first run. I kick myself now as I checked the log and there was zero knock and the track went away soon after.

Anyway when I went to get the time slip there was a group of guys I know clapping. They came over and infomed me that about 15-20' out on launch the front tires where about 8" in the air. I had felt something weird on launch-- it pulled hard then spun really hard then launched again. The rear tires spun hard when the front came up.

I guess I have a new problem to solve how the hell do I keep the front end down? I have the limiters in the front and QA1 shocks on setting 12 in the rear with Caltracs. I guess I could put a light spring on the QA1 like E did any other suggestions?



Also there is now another 10 sec Syclone the Ace Racing truck ran a 10.99 I am getting the time slip from him to post up soon.

Nolan

 

[SyTyJedi]

I thought you were :drinking: or already drunk when you were telling me this on AOL IM the other night

I guess this is a Typhoon thing that we haven't seen before. So you basically did a wheelie?

PLEASE tell me you have a video of this. Any damage to the front when you came back down?

 

[MRKING]

question ...

question ...

With the traction that you dont get from the front wheels being off the ground / or lifting , would weight up front help keep it down , like a hundred pound front bumper ? I know more weight = slower ,but cmon, past 32 psi and you werent peaked out . You have all the power needed , so am I wrong in thinking it could work ??

 

[cartman007]

Sick! I'd like to see a video if someone was lucky to catch it. Nice time too

 

[myclone]

Well..damn..... Another one of my goals (doing a "wheelie" in a syty) dashed against the Canadian rocks.

 

[10secTy]

I am thinking of looking into a boost controler that has ramp rates the truck is just insane off the line. I can stage sink the break and wait for the first bulb to come on I then floor it and have about 10psi by the third yellow and leave. I have to check the log again but I get 28psi by the top of 1st gear.

Me and Tony one day weigh our trucks on the same scale and the front wheel weights where withing 20 pounds. The rear weight of my truck was about 450lbs more in the rear than his Syclone.

I hate to say it but I would probley run faster if I went RWD with big slicks but thats not going to happen.

Nolan

 

[Windedv6]

Nolan

I had a little of the same problem last year. I was unloading the front so much that I had little weight on the front wheels. The rear would break loose and I would just slide around. The main problem with the ty's is that the frame is enough different than the sy's and not easy to do a ladder setup. I spent a lot of $$ for a chassis shop to basically start over.

He suggested to move the instant center forward to the center cab mount which is close to the door frame He also mounted the long ladder bar outbaord to the frame allowing a drop that puts the body flares about 1/4 from the tires.

What seems to happen is that the front stays down and all the weight on the rear drops, but not much transfers from the front. Comes out straight and low. Before it was jumping all over the place.

Marty has some pics on his site.

John

 

[10secTy]

Nolan

I had a little of the same problem last year. I was unloading the front so much that I had little weight on the front wheels. The rear would break loose and I would just slide around. The main problem with the ty's is that the frame is enough different than the sy's and not easy to do a ladder setup. I spent a lot of $$ for a chassis shop to basically start over.

He suggested to move the instant center forward to the center cab mount which is close to the door frame He also mounted the long ladder bar outbaord to the frame allowing a drop that puts the body flares about 1/4 from the tires.

What seems to happen is that the front stays down and all the weight on the rear drops, but not much transfers from the front. Comes out straight and low. Before it was jumping all over the place.

Marty has some pics on his site.

John

Ya I have been thinking about this Typhoons need way more help to get a clean launch. I have been thinking about building a bowtie but first i think I will get the suspention dialed it so that it is ready for the big power. I am gong to go talk to my chassis guy he had given me a quote before to do just what you have one yours with the ladders on the outside of the frame.
After talking to some guys at the track with 4 links and how they can adjust them to push the front tires into the the ground I think this will be the way I will go. Also I think I will push on to see what the limits are of the stock block and crank. :drinking: some one has to do it.

Nolan

 

[THEMADTYPH00N]

I am thinking of looking into a boost controler that has ramp rates the truck is just insane off the line. I can stage sink the break and wait for the first bulb to come on I then floor it and have about 10psi by the third yellow and leave. I have to check the log again but I get 28psi by the top of 1st gear.

Damn thats impressive. What turbo, converter, boost controller are you using? You still using stock manifolds? Anything done to them?

 

[gmcturbo]

im curious about the build also..

 

[Windedv6]

Nolan

For what's it worth my chassis guy did not want to use a four link set up. They are to aggressive towards a front end lift. We basically need a hinge to drop the rear fast as quick as possible without much front end lift. Also it is difficult to mount a four link setup on the outside of the frame rails.

John

 

[420]

I am thinking of looking into a boost controler that has ramp rates the truck is just insane off the line. I can stage sink the break and wait for the first bulb to come on I then floor it and have about 10psi by the third yellow and leave. I have to check the log again but I get 28psi by the top of 1st gear. Nolan

http://innovativeturbo.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/0013.3.3244228140116658863

Innovative Boost controller will do the trick nicely. It's what a lot of the big dawg GN's use

 

[10secTy]

I am thinking of looking into a boost controler that has ramp rates the truck is just insane off the line. I can stage sink the break and wait for the first bulb to come on I then floor it and have about 10psi by the third yellow and leave. I have to check the log again but I get 28psi by the top of 1st gear.

Damn thats impressive. What turbo, converter, boost controller are you using? You still using stock manifolds? Anything done to them?

Turbo right now is a T-72 ptrim. Converter is a Canadian TCS 2800, Boost control is a Boost commander. I am using stock manifolds at have been ported by me. Most of the quick spool is the tune :wink:

Nolan

 

[10secTy]

Nolan

For what's it worth my chassis guy did not want to use a four link set up. They are to aggressive towards a front end lift. We basically need a hinge to drop the rear fast as quick as possible without much front end lift. Also it is difficult to mount a four link setup on the outside of the frame rails.

John

I appreciate all the input and info. I talked to my guy today he is going to go over some things and get back to me. The thing with the 4 link is that the instant center can be moved further forward than a 3 link.

I might pull out the front driveshaft this friday and put on a set of Hoosier Quick times I have for the hell of it :roll: I am curious what it would do.

Any way I will let you know what my guy comes up with and compare notes.

Nolan

 

[10secTy]

I am thinking of looking into a boost controler that has ramp rates the truck is just insane off the line. I can stage sink the break and wait for the first bulb to come on I then floor it and have about 10psi by the third yellow and leave. I have to check the log again but I get 28psi by the top of 1st gear. Nolan

http://innovativeturbo.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/0013.3.3244228140116658863

Innovative Boost controller will do the trick nicely. It's what a lot of the big dawg GN's use

Has anyone used this with a internal wastgate setup?

See to run 30psi with my set up base boost is at 19psi I have 10 turns in my accuator. Guess I should think about going to a external over winter.

Nolan

 

[odium]

This is a quick fix, but I'm surprised nobody's mentioned it...

What are the disadvantages of using a removable wheelie bar? One that is low enough to prevent the front wheels from coming off the ground, with springs, of course?

Cheap, ugly fix, but I would think it to be an option... If this is a horrible idea, let me know, but more importantly, let me know why.

 

[prosty]

I have it with internal WG. It works okay. but you have to have a softer actuator spring.

Has anyone used this with a internal wastgate setup?

See to run 30psi with my set up base boost is at 19psi I have 10 turns in my accuator. Guess I should think about going to a external over winter.

Nolan

 

[ghettosled]

nolan try the new MT drag radials.

 

[420]

nolan try the new MT drag radials.

I would think that the issue here certainly isn't traction... He has plenty of that. It's how the chassis is behaving. I think a design change is in order; something to help keep the front wheels on the ground. Or the Go-Go-Gadget Front Shocks mod

 

[TurboTony]

Things went better today. I got a few very excited calls from Nolan at the track.

He sorted out the wheels up problem and set some new best times.

I'll let him give the details.

Tony