syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

[fahrfrumwurkin55]

So I'm doing a pretty nifty budget project. 1995 vortec 4.3 / 4L60 into a 1980 280ZX.

I have thought about doing a budget turbo setup, and I already have an IHI RHC6 GM8 turbo from a duramax that would be a good match for the kind of mild power goal I am wanting (250-300rwhp).

My question is what is different on the syty 4.3 vs. the regular vortec 4.3 as far as internal components? I'm going to build the tranny up, and I have the intercooling/fuel system, along with a standalone ECU (megasquirt) planned out, but I'm worried it will all be in vain if the regular 4.3 is way different.

The heads I'm not worried about, and the main thing I'm worried about are the pistons and rods.

What kind of power do you think I can safely get from my 1995 S-10 blazer 4.3 vortec engine?

 

[QUICK STORM]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

just build the bottom end and not worry about, it will save you alot of time and money. you will need to get some syty manifolds if you don't want custom headers. i will have a stock set for sale soon.

 

[fahrfrumwurkin55]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

If this wasn't a budget project, I would build the motor up. It's on quite the budget, so I'm going to be getting the most I can out of a stock unopened longblock.

I had planned on finding some syty manifolds

 

[cdezzz]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

If this wasn't a budget project, I would build the motor up. It's on quite the budget, so I'm going to be getting the most I can out of a stock unopened longblock.

I had planned on finding some syty manifolds

With that being said, i would stay away from the turbo, with the amount spent to make it work, the power gain will not be much.

 

[Wikid 1]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

you can turbo anything, and it's always worth the efforts if your willing. on that motor you'll only be able to run 6-8 Psi safely, but thats alot more power than you'll make without FI.. To make it work properly you'll need to convert it to MPI with prefferably a syty computer since it's already set up for it and has nice boost/fuel controls for a turbo setup, the stock Vortech computer can't add enough fuel and is a miserable machine to tune. with that high of a compression ratio, however your turbo will spool up faster. a good intercooler will also be incredably beinficial, with the mid 9.x compression of the stock motor keeping the IAT's low will help alot. you've already got the better L35 rods and heads which will help. I suggest an air to water setup with a 2-4 gallon resivour and ~10gpm pump. everyone else here will sugest air to air. I like a/w because it's capable of below ambiant temps if you like, more stable across the entire run (where the resivour is mandatory) and water can absorb more heat faster than air. that project sounds fun those old 280's are neat little cars.

 

[fahrfrumwurkin55]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

hey thanks wikid.. the L35 rod thing is the kind of info I'm mainly looking for. The vortec motor I have is a CPI motor, and I was going to use a megasquirt on it. I already have the turbo, intercooler, bov, fuel pump, regulator, and injectors.. the only thing I would have to actually buy is the Megasquirt and the syty exhaust manifolds.

I was originally going to use Tunercat on the stock vortec ecu, but using a megasquirt was the cheapest option that I could find that was better than the stock ecu.

So the rods and heads are better.. what about the pistons? I know the stock syty pistons are also hypereutectic, so is the only difference in them basically the compression ratio?
Assuming I have a standalone EMS, and a good turbo setup with the proper supporting mods.. what do you think the physical limits of this vortec motor horsepower/torque wise would be with a great tune on some leaded high octane gas?

 

[10secTy]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

The pistons are weak but if you set up the tune safe and don't knock it they will last for awhile. The other concern are the main caps. Syty blocks have nodular mains caps and the stock caps are cast. I have seen syclones that had the wrong block installed at gm and the cap broke. If you run 6-7 psi and have a safe tune is should last for quite awhile.

Nolan

 

[Jimmy]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

hey thanks wikid.. the L35 rod thing is the kind of info I'm mainly looking for.

The engine you have IS a L35.

 

[fahrfrumwurkin55]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

yeah, I had no clue until I asked... which is why I asked!

 

[vortecfiero]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

im running 10psi with the sy ecm and chip
on a 95 L35. on really hot days i get about 2 to 3 deg knock retard.
and ... sh!t yes its fast lol

 

[fahrfrumwurkin55]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

ohhhhh, your setup is exactly like what I'm going to be doing.. nice!

Are you using the L35 vortec wiring harness and a syty ECU together?

Let's say I want to snag a syty ECU to use, would I have to get the syty wiring harness too?

 

[QUICK STORM]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

if you need manifolds w/crosover, i have a set in great condition, 300shipped

 

[vortecfiero]

Re: syty 4.3 VS. regular vortec 4.3

ohhhhh, your setup is exactly like what I'm going to be doing.. nice!

Are you using the L35 vortec wiring harness and a syty ECU together?

Let's say I want to snag a syty ECU to use, would I have to get the syty wiring harness too?

yes get both harnesses... and for sure use the syty ecm.
count on cutting and spliceing to make one good harness.. its really not that hard once you get going... just follow the ecm wireing schematic