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Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
I'll swap you some pics :tup:
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
I'll swap you some pics :tup:
1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
- Thread starter Quickstop [UK]
- Start date
Tony Dipatri
New member
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Looking forward to seeing your progress
Good Luck
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Looking forward to seeing your progress
Good Luck
MDH
Member
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Mark,
A very productive Christmas all round!
I hope you manage to sus out the controller outputs to switch your CAC Pump on and off, that will be really trick.
As you keep ticking these items off your list you are running out of excuses to get the truck on the road!
For me New years resolution (other than reface original alloys) is garage extenstion. Have spoken to Nic about it so just need to pull finger out. So who knows hopefully a UK wrenchfest in Bristol sometime this year?
Finally as always thank you so much for your help with installing the TC. I haven't been sober enough to drive since Christmas :drinking: but will pull some logs in the new year to look over. I have had a look at the high idle and it looks like the IAC is commanded to fully close with no difference to idle speed (still high) I will do some more checks but looks like a replacement is on the cards.
Anyways, thanks again for all your support and guidance relating to Sy ownership over the last 14 months.
Speak soon,
Marcus
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Mark,
A very productive Christmas all round!
I hope you manage to sus out the controller outputs to switch your CAC Pump on and off, that will be really trick.
As you keep ticking these items off your list you are running out of excuses to get the truck on the road!
For me New years resolution (other than reface original alloys) is garage extenstion. Have spoken to Nic about it so just need to pull finger out. So who knows hopefully a UK wrenchfest in Bristol sometime this year?
Finally as always thank you so much for your help with installing the TC. I haven't been sober enough to drive since Christmas :drinking: but will pull some logs in the new year to look over. I have had a look at the high idle and it looks like the IAC is commanded to fully close with no difference to idle speed (still high) I will do some more checks but looks like a replacement is on the cards.
Anyways, thanks again for all your support and guidance relating to Sy ownership over the last 14 months.
Speak soon,
Marcus
BigBadSmoosh
Picking fights on I-65 since 2013
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Before sanding and powdercoating:
Afterwards...
Also, my girlfriend edited the artistic shots of the car and they came out really well:
She insisted they take pride of place in our dining room.
I'm heading home in 2 weeks to install the IC and alky nozzles and hopefully drive the car for an MOT (DOT inspection in the UK).
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0539 rebuild
Before sanding and powdercoating:
Afterwards...
Also, my girlfriend edited the artistic shots of the car and they came out really well:
She insisted they take pride of place in our dining room.
I'm heading home in 2 weeks to install the IC and alky nozzles and hopefully drive the car for an MOT (DOT inspection in the UK).
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
Before
After
And this is just a cool picture.
I started it today and it fired first time! I might drive it tomorrow but not sure.
Before
After
And this is just a cool picture.
I started it today and it fired first time! I might drive it tomorrow but not sure.
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
12102619 - relay connector for 10034222
I need this dammit. $20!!!!
12102619 - relay connector for 10034222
I need this dammit. $20!!!!
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
http://youtu.be/53NRQEex588
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2J7H89dYac&feature=related
Thanks Chip and Mike!
http://youtu.be/53NRQEex588
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2J7H89dYac&feature=related
Thanks Chip and Mike!
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
I have done a few things recently but have hit a few snags... short synopsis:
:tup: Hotired the lower IC pump which worked great. I used a new connector and connected to the firewall and the IC pump runs strong when the IGN is on.
:tup: The spare ECM wire was used to privide a ground for a relay to power the Derale fan I have on the lower IC. The fan runs great - I can hear it running for a few seconds after the IGN goes off.
With the fan and the pump an, the alky kit and the powdercoated IC mentioned above, the IC system is as good as it will get without the DutchTy IC. I'd still love to get it as it is a beautiful piece. Has anyone compared the volume of fluid (as opposed to the volume of the fins etc? It would be interesting to know.
At this point I hit a snag. After messing around with weird electrical issues which were down to a totally flat battery, the truck's ECM proved to be on great form. I cut my AFR sensor apart though when I replaced the gauge bulbs with LEDs and discovered that the wires are a lot harder to reconnect than I thought possible. I have another PLX gauge, (multi sensor this time) on the way so that will fill the hole but it was an annoying extra expense. I also have an Autometer EGT gauge on the way. Not sure what to do with the info from it but it looks cool.
The LEDs look great but the SES/CEL one has to come out because it is lit constantly. I suspect this is because there is a residual voltage across it due to the earth being provided by the ECM thus a problem. A solution would be to wire in a potentiometer in series with that connector but I only just put the dash away and I don't want to tap into the wires if I can avoid it. It's a shame as the light is really bright. Maybe I'll think about it.... I also need to install and additional stubby LED for the gauge lighting. Honestly, you need to see the difference from the old bulbs to appreciate it.
I checked my gear shifter and P/N safety switch. It does indeed work but there is a bit of slop in there so I need to try and adjust where the gears change so that I can actually start in N. I lost power one time and couldn't start it until the car was totally stopped... scary.
The fuel pump has been acting weird - intermittently I have had no fuel pressure, normal (42 psi) or variable. I put it down to the low voltage then a relay then a bad pump. I just don't know what it is so have ordered a spare fuel pump in case and am waiting to see how the present one performs in the meantime
:tdown: The major :rant: :banghead: issue is that the truck ran like poo when I fired it up. It struggled to start and when it ran, it was idling terribly and the noise... the NOISE was terrible. It sounded like someone kicking a bag of hammers down the street.
Knowing that the bottom end was good, I started thinking about the rockers and took the driver's valve cover off. Sure enough, 4 of the 6 were really loose so I meticulously adjusted them and tried again. It seemed better but still rattled so I pulled the passenger cover and found the same thing.
I did the same again and adjusted them but also checked the driver's side that I had JUST ADJUSTED! They were loose again! I'd turned the motor over so thought maybe something was loose but the lock nuts were firm.
I got the engine to TDC again and adjusted 2, 4, 4 and 6 and left them for 5 minutes. Lo and behold, the valves all became loose. I don't know what I have in there but it is clear that the lifters are not retaining their oil. They are used but I wonder if they are correct for the truck. I am not prepared to have the engine sound as bad as it does every time I start it up so have ordered ANOTHER set of lifters (875-12) for the truck. With any luck I will have them in 4 days (Thursday). I leave here on Saturday so Friday might be a hell of a busy day.
I bought this set used :ebay: so this was probably my mistake. They ran great when I installed them though so I wonder why they are now failing. :dunno:
I have 10 good 875s sitting - they have retained their firmness after a year on the shelf so I hope that the new set will mean that I have 12 good ones and finally slay this rocker/ticking gremlin-beast.
Other jobs that I have to do involve:
1 - Straightening the steering wheel - it's 90* to the truck due to the Jeep shaft - Dremel here we come!
2 - Install the locking ring for the column - the last guys to take it off didn't install it.
3 - Replace the steering bearing/fitting on the shaft
4 - Replace a lock solenoid
5 - Replace the window motors
6 - Fix the leak into the passenger footwell
7 - Install the driver window moulding and channels
8 - PLX multi gauge install
9 - EGT gauge and probe install
I also have a couple of LEDs laying around - I could maye use them to indicate the fan and lower IC being on. More wiring though :tdown:
I was hoping to drive the truck this week but I guess this isn't going to happen. :tdown::rant::tdown::rant:
I have done a few things recently but have hit a few snags... short synopsis:
:tup: Hotired the lower IC pump which worked great. I used a new connector and connected to the firewall and the IC pump runs strong when the IGN is on.
:tup: The spare ECM wire was used to privide a ground for a relay to power the Derale fan I have on the lower IC. The fan runs great - I can hear it running for a few seconds after the IGN goes off.
With the fan and the pump an, the alky kit and the powdercoated IC mentioned above, the IC system is as good as it will get without the DutchTy IC. I'd still love to get it as it is a beautiful piece. Has anyone compared the volume of fluid (as opposed to the volume of the fins etc? It would be interesting to know.
At this point I hit a snag. After messing around with weird electrical issues which were down to a totally flat battery, the truck's ECM proved to be on great form. I cut my AFR sensor apart though when I replaced the gauge bulbs with LEDs and discovered that the wires are a lot harder to reconnect than I thought possible. I have another PLX gauge, (multi sensor this time) on the way so that will fill the hole but it was an annoying extra expense. I also have an Autometer EGT gauge on the way. Not sure what to do with the info from it but it looks cool.
The LEDs look great but the SES/CEL one has to come out because it is lit constantly. I suspect this is because there is a residual voltage across it due to the earth being provided by the ECM thus a problem. A solution would be to wire in a potentiometer in series with that connector but I only just put the dash away and I don't want to tap into the wires if I can avoid it. It's a shame as the light is really bright. Maybe I'll think about it.... I also need to install and additional stubby LED for the gauge lighting. Honestly, you need to see the difference from the old bulbs to appreciate it.
I checked my gear shifter and P/N safety switch. It does indeed work but there is a bit of slop in there so I need to try and adjust where the gears change so that I can actually start in N. I lost power one time and couldn't start it until the car was totally stopped... scary.
The fuel pump has been acting weird - intermittently I have had no fuel pressure, normal (42 psi) or variable. I put it down to the low voltage then a relay then a bad pump. I just don't know what it is so have ordered a spare fuel pump in case and am waiting to see how the present one performs in the meantime
:tdown: The major :rant: :banghead: issue is that the truck ran like poo when I fired it up. It struggled to start and when it ran, it was idling terribly and the noise... the NOISE was terrible. It sounded like someone kicking a bag of hammers down the street.
Knowing that the bottom end was good, I started thinking about the rockers and took the driver's valve cover off. Sure enough, 4 of the 6 were really loose so I meticulously adjusted them and tried again. It seemed better but still rattled so I pulled the passenger cover and found the same thing.
I did the same again and adjusted them but also checked the driver's side that I had JUST ADJUSTED! They were loose again! I'd turned the motor over so thought maybe something was loose but the lock nuts were firm.
I got the engine to TDC again and adjusted 2, 4, 4 and 6 and left them for 5 minutes. Lo and behold, the valves all became loose. I don't know what I have in there but it is clear that the lifters are not retaining their oil. They are used but I wonder if they are correct for the truck. I am not prepared to have the engine sound as bad as it does every time I start it up so have ordered ANOTHER set of lifters (875-12) for the truck. With any luck I will have them in 4 days (Thursday). I leave here on Saturday so Friday might be a hell of a busy day.
I bought this set used :ebay: so this was probably my mistake. They ran great when I installed them though so I wonder why they are now failing. :dunno:
I have 10 good 875s sitting - they have retained their firmness after a year on the shelf so I hope that the new set will mean that I have 12 good ones and finally slay this rocker/ticking gremlin-beast.
Other jobs that I have to do involve:
1 - Straightening the steering wheel - it's 90* to the truck due to the Jeep shaft - Dremel here we come!
2 - Install the locking ring for the column - the last guys to take it off didn't install it.
3 - Replace the steering bearing/fitting on the shaft
4 - Replace a lock solenoid
5 - Replace the window motors
6 - Fix the leak into the passenger footwell
7 - Install the driver window moulding and channels
8 - PLX multi gauge install
9 - EGT gauge and probe install
I also have a couple of LEDs laying around - I could maye use them to indicate the fan and lower IC being on. More wiring though :tdown:
I was hoping to drive the truck this week but I guess this isn't going to happen. :tdown::rant::tdown::rant:
bezerk
New member
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
why have you purchased the 875's again? you changed them out because they were to loud (as they are) for stockers (used) and now you purchased 875's again?
just ghet 850's or new stockers as they are the same.
also why do you want to use the dremel on your steerign wheel? you can put on the jeep steering shaft on in any position you want as well as your steering wheel.
btw, i just drove the sy out of the garage and it runs great
why have you purchased the 875's again? you changed them out because they were to loud (as they are) for stockers (used) and now you purchased 875's again?
just ghet 850's or new stockers as they are the same.
also why do you want to use the dremel on your steerign wheel? you can put on the jeep steering shaft on in any position you want as well as your steering wheel.
btw, i just drove the sy out of the garage and it runs great
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
The 875s were fine, it was just the 2 bad ones that were ticking. Tried buying new stockers but had no luck.
Will look at the steering wheel again.
Bastard! :tup:
The 875s were fine, it was just the 2 bad ones that were ticking. Tried buying new stockers but had no luck.
Will look at the steering wheel again.
Bastard! :tup: