4 bolt main or not
- Thread starter AXXE
- Start date
I like these and have them in one of my motors. If a shop can't do this job correctly then don't let them do anything.$214.95 from summit. Trim the outside bolt holes off on one cap and use it for a front cap.
350 Journal, Factory 2 Bolt (Angles Bolts)1 11150
These aftermarket main caps will strengthen not only factory 2 bolt blocks, but also 4 bolts. Unlike the factory caps, these not only have more cross sectional strength, but the real secret is in the angled side bolts!
The side bolts are angled so they pull from the side walls of the block and not the flimsy main web area. A bolt that is angled will require a massive amount of additional load to flex or stretch, let alone break, compared to a conventional straight up bolt. The side bolts heavily load the cap against the register step which stops "cap walk". It is cap walk that causes a great amount of unforeseen bearing damage and horsepower loss.
Milodon main caps are precision machined from high strength ductile material which has the proper balance of strength yet is not too rigid to allow transfer of increased shock loads to the crank and bearings. In this case more is not better when it comes to hardness.
Only .030" of material removal is required upon initial installation, which will allow 100% cleanup on a damaged block. The drill bushing used to drill and tap the side bolt holes is included in the kit. The side bolts can be installed by anyone with a hand drill and a tap. If the block has square main registers, the block needs only a standard align bore to finish the job. Milling the mains is only necessary if the main registers are not square.
All necessary bolts, washers and the drill bushing are included in the center three cap kit. For maximum strength the installation of Milodon main studs are highly recommended.
350 Journal, Factory 2 Bolt (Angles Bolts)1 11150
These aftermarket main caps will strengthen not only factory 2 bolt blocks, but also 4 bolts. Unlike the factory caps, these not only have more cross sectional strength, but the real secret is in the angled side bolts!
The side bolts are angled so they pull from the side walls of the block and not the flimsy main web area. A bolt that is angled will require a massive amount of additional load to flex or stretch, let alone break, compared to a conventional straight up bolt. The side bolts heavily load the cap against the register step which stops "cap walk". It is cap walk that causes a great amount of unforeseen bearing damage and horsepower loss.
Milodon main caps are precision machined from high strength ductile material which has the proper balance of strength yet is not too rigid to allow transfer of increased shock loads to the crank and bearings. In this case more is not better when it comes to hardness.
Only .030" of material removal is required upon initial installation, which will allow 100% cleanup on a damaged block. The drill bushing used to drill and tap the side bolt holes is included in the kit. The side bolts can be installed by anyone with a hand drill and a tap. If the block has square main registers, the block needs only a standard align bore to finish the job. Milling the mains is only necessary if the main registers are not square.
All necessary bolts, washers and the drill bushing are included in the center three cap kit. For maximum strength the installation of Milodon main studs are highly recommended.
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
to have someone do the conversion properly figure $500-$600 when all said and done(and they need to have the align bore machine). If you find it cheaper, then you are either 1) getting a very good deal, or 2) You're getting bent over with a slap together job. I for one would laugh if someone told me they were using a hand drill to register my splayed bolts.
Probably going to want to use caps other then the REV or Bowtie b/c I don't believe they are notched, which means extra milling. We have used milodon caps in the past with good success.
The only thing you should ask yourself is how much money do you want to dump into a stock block?
Probably going to want to use caps other then the REV or Bowtie b/c I don't believe they are notched, which means extra milling. We have used milodon caps in the past with good success.
The only thing you should ask yourself is how much money do you want to dump into a stock block?
JSM
Active member
92 black typhoon said:
I am also guessing he has build a ton of syty's also, that go fast.
I don't listen to anybody that hasn't PROVEN themselves. So much bad info from bench racer wannabe's.
Lets see, all the fast trucks I can think of have 4bolt mains... damn, if they only went 2 bolt, they could go faster.... NOT!!!!!!!!!!
I will have to agree a standard stock style 4bolt is questionable, but splayed caps are NOT by any means.
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
there are trucks that have gone 10s with stock 2 bolt caps and arp bolts. And yes they lasted longer then a season.
99Xtreme_lover
New member
I have billet steel 2 bold main caps on my motor and its holding fine with 150 shot of nitrous and now i'm going to put 200 shot . It have ARP studs and was align bored . Its working fine for me 
.
c-ya
.c-ya
I run 2 bolt mains, haven't had any problems. I think if I had to do it all over again I'd go 4 bolt mains just for the piece of mind, especially consider my goals are deep into the 10's. Now if your planning on high 11, and not changing that goal, I think you'll be just fine. Seriously, high 11's in a Sy is very mild power, could be done with a totally stock motor season after season if it's tuned right.
