40' Advance Timing

TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
Hey All,

Got an update for ya...also would like to get a read on where I'm at with the truck.

Got to get into the Sy some more this past Sunday...unfortunately won't beable to get near it again for some time. I'm going to Paris / London this weekend. I'll post pics afterwards.

Here's the deal. Truck has run like shit ever since the new motor...but I think I'm getting closer...while I haven't made it run any better I've gotten it to the point that I can almost taste it running good.

This past weekend I dug into the AFPR and got the PSI down to ~35psi. Not sure exactly where it's at as I didn't set it properly but I sure as hell know it was way too high (~65) before I started. I'm going back in there again later. The sever popping in the Cat has died down and the exhaust isn't any where near the same smell as it was before.

Playing with the wires (swapped #1 & #2...90' plug vs. straight plug) and the distributor I confirmed I had everything right and started it back up. (Confirmed TDC with timing mark by rotating crank) It was still off and I couldn't get it anywhere near 0' timing at idle (Tan wire disconnected). It was sitting @ 40' timing at idle.

It's not throwing any more codes and I'm feeling better about it. Willing to do the plugs and wires again...no problem...just need confirmation about the timing and get that straight.

I'm willing to bet Distributor is in wrong. I'm willing to work on this next...but want to hear some thoughts from the AMERICANS. Distributor is at about 45' angle on the flat side to the firewall...big side pointing to Driverside fender. Plug wires are on right.

I'd also like to hear thoughts on whether or not I'm using the right timing mark. There's two on the harmonic balancer. Thoughts?
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
Yeah had the firing order and all whole bunch of diagrams. I guess the distributor is 180 off. Gonna dig into that next.
 
bezerk

bezerk

New member
Why does it make a difference if the flatside of the dist.. is sitting in a different angle?
 
dgoodhue

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Sigo said:
Yeah had the firing order and all whole bunch of diagrams. I guess the distributor is 180 off. Gonna dig into that next.
Click to expand...

If you have to move the ditributor to 40 degrees intial timing something is way off. The base o fthe ditributor can be 'reclock', but the rotor in relation to the distirbutor can not. My guess is you have #6 where #1 is, becasue of the firing order '612345' or it could be off by tooth.
 
E

E-Rue

New member
first make sure your timing mark really is at zero by using a piston stop. this should also reconfirm which mark you should be using on the ballancer, assuming the ballancer hasnt slipped. if it has, and none of the marks match up with what you calculate is TDC, let me know, and ill send you a new one. more than likely your just a tooth or 2 off on the distributor gear. sounds like you need to turn it farther than its possible to get it set to zero at idle. loosen it, and pick up on the dist. the rotate it in the direction you need to and drop it back down. if it doesnt want to go all the way back down, its because the oil pump drive isnt lining up. its kind of a PITA but you have to get the distributor in the right place, and also get the oil pump to line up so it drops all the way down. do not start the truck with it not all the way down. you will have no oil pressure. if you have a hard time, just call me, i can explain it a lot easier in person.

e
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
I'm not going to have time this weekend to get into it. But I hope that this is the root of my problems and will solve it. I've done a lot of things to this truck and I'm sooo close to getting it right.
 
AlaskaTy

AlaskaTy

New member
InvisiBill said:
http://www.whitetyphoon.com/firing_order.html

That's how the cap should be sitting. The flat side should be facing toward the steering wheel area.

And that's the extent of my distributor knowledge. Hope you get it worked out.
Click to expand...
The flat part of my dist cap is straight back towards the firewall.
 
myclone

myclone

Donating Member
Ditto on what my honey E said.. Call me on my cel if'n ya need to.

(540)580-4046

BTW, got the grand am....uh...I mean GTO yet? :p :lol:
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
Well finally got around to working on the truck. When I pulled the cap (Like I did the first time) after verifying the TDC and the rotor was pointed towards the right front wheel (about 50' off or so).

Well went ahead and pulled the distributor out to reclock. (Anybody else have an extreme dislike for their fuel line right now?)

Welp when I went to drop the Distributor back in, it kept seating with the rotor pointing Straight left behind the drivers wheel. I needed it to point to #1 piston (45' from where it was seating & pointing) so we got down in there and moved the oil pump drive. Finally after a lot of wrangling we got it to seat down correctly in the right position. Tightened (or so I thought) the distributor...and had the mechanic dude hold down the distributor. It fired right up and almost immediately went into a beautifull idle.

So I'm very close. Right now though It's still not in running condition as I have to go back and mess with the tongue that holds down the distributor. I couldn't get my fat hands down in there to manipulate it over the distributor. I'll get somebody with small hands to get on it tomorrow.

Side notes:

Took off egr valve to get better access to the Distributor and put on my block off plate courtesy of Mike Hood. Cleared up a lot of stuff. What do I do with the hose that came off of the EGR Valve? Just close it up by folding in half and zip tieing? It goes to the map sensor.

E- I'll need a stock burn chip with EGR Delete...think you can burn one real quick and drop it in the mail this week?

Tore up a check valve from Ian's Vacuum Kit. I'll need to beg and plead for another one from him.

I'm starting to consider an Electric fan. All this fan & shroud removal is killing me.

That's it for now.
 
9

93ty475

Donating Member
Sigo said:
Tore up a check valve from Ian's Vacuum Kit. I'll need to beg and plead for another one from him.
Click to expand...

there should be 3 check valves on you vacuum system if its stock...if you deleted egr, you shouldn't need one of the three...one of them is for the egr circuit in the vac system...i would look for the vacuum line that goes "into" the egr solenoid and trace it back to its own checkvalve, then remove checkvalve and cap it off there should be around a "t"...use that checkvalve to replace the broken one, providing they are the same part...you should be able to get away with two checkvalves vs. three now...someone please correct me if i'm wrong...assuming your truck still has a fuel vapor canister and cruise control and a/c ect...
 
Jimmy

Jimmy

Banned
93ty475 said:
Sigo said:
Tore up a check valve from Ian's Vacuum Kit. I'll need to beg and plead for another one from him.
Click to expand...

there should be 3 check valves on you vacuum system if its stock...if you deleted egr, you shouldn't need one of the three...one of them is for the egr circuit in the vac system...i would look for the vacuum line that goes "into" the egr solenoid and trace it back to its own checkvalve, then remove checkvalve and cap it off there should be around a "t"...use that checkvalve to replace the broken one, providing they are the same part...you should be able to get away with two checkvalves vs. three now...someone please correct me if i'm wrong...assuming your truck still has a fuel vapor canister and cruise control and a/c ect...
Click to expand...
Yep,I got a kit from Ian that was for EGR,and just capped it off like you said.That's why I have an extra valve.
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
aab.jpg


So...I deleted the EGR. Now line #1 is unplugged. The check valve that is circled is the one that was destroyed. do I just remove it and plug it straight back into the "T"?

What about Line #1? Let it be open off of the EGR solenoid?
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
Cool then I don't need you to send me the other check valve. #1 line will be pulled off of the solenoid and will be open to the air.

Gonna use the #1 line to T into the line between AFPR and the Plenum to run my Blow Off Valve. Wish me luck.
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
Well today I got to the autoskills center just 50 minutes before they were to close. So I enlisted the unwilling assistance of one of the guys (hehe) and another guy and we got the plugs changed in 20 minutes.

The difference? Phenomenal. The plugs that I pulled out were completely black and one wasn't even firing (it was kinda loose :oops: )

Put new UR6's in and the difference in idle was amazing.

Of course Murphey isn't willing to give up yet...he's not done kicking me in the balls yet.

Found out my delivery date for my GTO isn't till 14 July. So with the summer heating up and no AC in my Honda ....I'd like the Syclone to run soon w/ it's AC and all.

So...plugs were changed and I was testing the Revs. It's still pushing through one of the cylinders...so something is still off. But, it's close so I've got to back through now and recheck timing (w/ tan wire disconnected) and FP (w/ Vacuum line off & plugged). I will also complete the repair on the vac system (above pic) and tidy up a few other things.

Friday will see a few safety & appearance items addressed.

Today I ordered a Moats Adapter with a few program adapters....to address lack of an EGR Valve.

Can't wait for the future. Truck is coming together.
 
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