4l80E, what does it take for a Sy install?
- Thread starter Daron
- Start date
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
man thats easy.... MONEY!
and alot of it. I believe they take new shafts, computer, mount, etc.
and alot of it. I believe they take new shafts, computer, mount, etc.
4L80E is longer, so you need to extend the stock mount with some welding, or full new one.
Requires a tranny computer to control shifts/line pressure/TC lockup.
Adapter from 4L80E case to AWD transfercase (Advance Adapters)
Longer propshaft, as tranny & transfercase unit is now longer.
Shorter driveshaft, for the above reason as well.
Converter that works for 4L80E to Syty flexplate.
I'm still convinced that I could do it for lots less than everyone says it will cost.
Requires a tranny computer to control shifts/line pressure/TC lockup.
Adapter from 4L80E case to AWD transfercase (Advance Adapters)
Longer propshaft, as tranny & transfercase unit is now longer.
Shorter driveshaft, for the above reason as well.
Converter that works for 4L80E to Syty flexplate.
I'm still convinced that I could do it for lots less than everyone says it will cost.
TurboManiacal
Donating Member
Which vehicles are the 4L80's found in stock?
If you were a handling guy (60%) over dragstrip guy (40%) how do you think this tranny will perform?
Lastly...a 4L80 is an electric version of the 700r4 right?
If you were a handling guy (60%) over dragstrip guy (40%) how do you think this tranny will perform?
Lastly...a 4L80 is an electric version of the 700r4 right?
What kind of power are you talking about?
The 4L60E is the electronically controlled version of the 700r4/4L60. The 4L80E is the heavy duty version of the 4L60E. Kind of like comparing the TH350 to the TH400. 4L80E is bulkier and heavier, although much of the weight increase is in the fully loaded monster torque converter the 4L80E uses stock.
The 4L60E is the electronically controlled version of the 700r4/4L60. The 4L80E is the heavy duty version of the 4L60E. Kind of like comparing the TH350 to the TH400. 4L80E is bulkier and heavier, although much of the weight increase is in the fully loaded monster torque converter the 4L80E uses stock.
TurboManiacal
Donating Member
Power levels of 400hp to 500hp. The kind of stuff that I was talking to you about on AIM a few weeks ago...high speed driving, frequent slow down & accelerate hard out of corner kind of stuff. Just trying to sponge all the info I can off of ya.
4L80's come in the Tahoe, Suburban, and some of the heavy duty trucks like the Sierra.
If set up right it could perform just right but the power level you're looking at 400-500HP you don't need a 4L80 you should be able to get a good stout 700 or better yet a 4L60e for more control that will be able to handle what you are looking at doing...a 4L80 is a redisgned 4 gear TH400, the 4L60e is the electric version of the 700. There is a lot more rotating mass withe the 4L80 which would seriously slow most people down...you really don't need a 4L80 until you've got a much higher revving motor that is going to make some serious HP higher in the powerband...remember we've got grunt/torque motors that can't rev past 5000RPMS unless you've done some serious build...talk to Brian H. he can get into this much deeper than I can but my guess is he'd tell you a 700 or 60e would suit you just fine, trust me I have a 4L80e and it is a lot of work and lot of $$$$...good luck...
TurboManiacal
Donating Member
Ryan,
I guess that you're kinda under the assumption that I'd be looking at an AWD build (I'm not) My goal is to save for my tour in Germany a significant cash reserve and build a 400-500hp Turbo 6 in a Chevy Extrme or Sonoma capable of superior handling and acceleration. While it may sound like a pipe dream...with the correct amount of diligence...It could come true. Of course...maybe Chevy will just have a "new" Extreme come available in the Colorado with a really nice Sport Package & a Turbo 5 Cylinder worth 315hp that is easily modded.
I guess that you're kinda under the assumption that I'd be looking at an AWD build (I'm not) My goal is to save for my tour in Germany a significant cash reserve and build a 400-500hp Turbo 6 in a Chevy Extrme or Sonoma capable of superior handling and acceleration. While it may sound like a pipe dream...with the correct amount of diligence...It could come true. Of course...maybe Chevy will just have a "new" Extreme come available in the Colorado with a really nice Sport Package & a Turbo 5 Cylinder worth 315hp that is easily modded.
TurboManiacal
Donating Member
I don't think really after AWD...it would make delivery easier but fabrication harder. Food for thought for sure.
Gotcha, I remember now we talked about that the other day...my answer still doesn't change though, you don't need a 4L80e unless you want to go slower :wink: OK so you're RWD and ~60% Road Racer and ~40% Drag Racer. Ask yourself the following question. What breaks tranny parts quicker a 500HP AWD Typhoon or a 500HP RWD Typhoon assuming all other things are equal? The AWD will break first without a doubt. The stress, strain, and heat put on it by all that traction will kill it. In the case of the RWD truck the stress is relieved when the wheels start to spin thus saving the trans. The internals of the 4L80 are considerably heavier than the 4L60 so it would slow you down considerably...
TurboManiacal
Donating Member
Ryan,
I agree 100% while speed could/would be effected at first at launch...I feel Top end is where I really want it. Light weight is key as well. I'm already kinda hashing this out with Al Dustin and he claims he is almost complete with a Coil Over kit for the Extremes/Sonoma ZQ8's that will rival his SyTy kit. If it is extra weight then It'll be gone in this project 'o mine. Except...of course that 1 10" sub.
I agree 100% while speed could/would be effected at first at launch...I feel Top end is where I really want it. Light weight is key as well. I'm already kinda hashing this out with Al Dustin and he claims he is almost complete with a Coil Over kit for the Extremes/Sonoma ZQ8's that will rival his SyTy kit. If it is extra weight then It'll be gone in this project 'o mine. Except...of course that 1 10" sub.
Good call on the Dustin suspension and the 10" sub :wink: the 4L60e sounds like it will fit your needs just fine. It is relatively light, gives you 4 gears, and electronic controls so you would have quite a bit of control and if its built right it should last a very long time...good luck and keep us posted...
Brian Hartman
New member
Ryan is 100% right on this. The 4L80E is a monster tranny that only needs to be put in when you have lots of power to burn. Like Ryan said I'd say, build a really nice 4L60 or 4L60E.
To properly set up a 4L80E is expensive. Brian Green commented that he didn't believe it costs that much to build one and he could do it for less. One out of two isn't bad. Yes you could build it for less but why would you want a weak 4L80E in a high performance truck and if you knew all the weak links, it would pretty much scare you. The 4L80E get expensive once you cross out of the realm of the 4L60 and can justify the money to get it done right.
You also have to remember that you will lose the deep 1st gear that our AWD loves. Even if you did try to go only RWD, the moment of enertia will be a bit higher, not due to the weight of the tranny but the extra kick to the pants it will take to get moving. If you have big power, you will see a performance gain if you have the power to over come the additional energy it takes it to match what it will normally do with a 4L60 at the power level you were at before you were forced into a tranny like this.
Top end will suffer to unless you have the power and you had to go to this tranny. Remember that rotating mass on the driveline is 15 times greater than the same weight on your chassis.
Well, I just chimed in eventhough the question has been correctly answered earlier.
To properly set up a 4L80E is expensive. Brian Green commented that he didn't believe it costs that much to build one and he could do it for less. One out of two isn't bad. Yes you could build it for less but why would you want a weak 4L80E in a high performance truck and if you knew all the weak links, it would pretty much scare you. The 4L80E get expensive once you cross out of the realm of the 4L60 and can justify the money to get it done right.
You also have to remember that you will lose the deep 1st gear that our AWD loves. Even if you did try to go only RWD, the moment of enertia will be a bit higher, not due to the weight of the tranny but the extra kick to the pants it will take to get moving. If you have big power, you will see a performance gain if you have the power to over come the additional energy it takes it to match what it will normally do with a 4L60 at the power level you were at before you were forced into a tranny like this.
Top end will suffer to unless you have the power and you had to go to this tranny. Remember that rotating mass on the driveline is 15 times greater than the same weight on your chassis.
Well, I just chimed in eventhough the question has been correctly answered earlier.
Yes you could build it for less but why would you want a weak 4L80E in a high performance truck and if you knew all the weak links, it would pretty much scare you.
Well I always look at things from a budget standpoint that I have :smile
I was considering the 4L80E on my old Syclone, since I was at the point at which I believed no 4L60E would last for more than a few runs (surprisingly mine was doing fairly well, had about 20-30 low 11 second passes, and after Peter had it torn down was wearing some parts out, but nothing earth shattering). Anyhoo, I had heard about some of the issues the 4L80e's have had over different years/versions, and my thoughts were to do the fixes for those, and the light upgrades, with the idea that a mild built 4L80E would sacrifice some power for more durability. At the point I was with my Syclone, I'd sacrifice some power for longevity and peace of mind :wink:
The adapter - no real getting away from that cost. Computer - I was almost considering using a GM computer for this, burning chip for the cal. Driveshafts - not a huge expense, just wouldn't go the all out aluminum carbon fiber route. Crossmember mount - easy fix with a welder and scrap metal.
All kinda academic now, since I don't need no 4L80E for the TTA :razz:
Well I always look at things from a budget standpoint that I have :smile
I was considering the 4L80E on my old Syclone, since I was at the point at which I believed no 4L60E would last for more than a few runs (surprisingly mine was doing fairly well, had about 20-30 low 11 second passes, and after Peter had it torn down was wearing some parts out, but nothing earth shattering). Anyhoo, I had heard about some of the issues the 4L80e's have had over different years/versions, and my thoughts were to do the fixes for those, and the light upgrades, with the idea that a mild built 4L80E would sacrifice some power for more durability. At the point I was with my Syclone, I'd sacrifice some power for longevity and peace of mind :wink:
The adapter - no real getting away from that cost. Computer - I was almost considering using a GM computer for this, burning chip for the cal. Driveshafts - not a huge expense, just wouldn't go the all out aluminum carbon fiber route. Crossmember mount - easy fix with a welder and scrap metal.
All kinda academic now, since I don't need no 4L80E for the TTA :razz:
Brian Hartman
New member
Hahaha! Yeah you are right. If a budget is in the way of your goal of having the ultimate street racer then you could do it like that. It's funny, a budget is nothing more than a feel good that you didn't have to sell the house for that shiney new part sense of self constraint. You can sleep knowing you have control until you look back and see how much you have spent over the last several years and then almost faint. Think what it would of spent without a budget :smile: Well if you had a budget on the Syclone, it wasn't apparent. Your truck hauled butt. What's the TTA running these days?
Take care bro
Take care bro