A/C delete

TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: A/C delete

Hey ANDRAES...you can do this with no brackets, a shorter belt and a hygm (sp) joint for under $40. your belt will only be on the driver side of the motor. JER has this set up and it is qutie nice I must admit, very clever indeed. I am going to be doing this to mine as soon as I get my motor back in the truck. If you havent got it figured out yet Ill post a pic when Im done.

Mike
 
Andreas

Andreas

New member
Re: A/C delete

Yes please post pics...just wanne be done with it. Gone send JER a PM to. Did tranny, ball joints, A2A, painted chassi and much more and this f%¤&er AC crap makes me NOT tke the truck for a spin...aarrgghh...very frustrating.
 
9

93ty475

Donating Member
Re: A/C delete

typhooner0073 said:
Hey ANDRAES...you can do this with no brackets, a shorter belt and a hygm (sp) joint for under $40. your belt will only be on the driver side of the motor. JER has this set up and it is qutie nice I must admit, very clever indeed. I am going to be doing this to mine as soon as I get my motor back in the truck. If you havent got it figured out yet Ill post a pic when Im done.

Mike
Click to expand...

I remember seeing this before....any pics out there?....This mod makes the alternator adjustable to tighten the new belt...What I want to know is how they routed the belt around the accessories, specifically the water pump.... I'm interested in doing this as well....my immediate goal is to unclutter my sy's engine bay and make it easier to work on....
 
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: A/C delete

Its pretty simple actually. Ive spent hours trying to figure out a sensible way to do this and when I saw JER's I was like damn...how did I miss this idea? Basically it goes around the PSP, then up to the ALT, then UNDER the water pump and then around the crank and back to the PSP. So there is absolutely nothing on the driver side of the mootr. Its pretty nice I liked it a lot.

Mike.
 
9

93ty475

Donating Member
Re: A/C delete

Ok, I went and mocked up the above described belt routing and it'll definitely work....instead of the belt looping around the water pump pulley (like stock), it'll just be running against it now....nothing, in terms of accessories, appears to change it's direction of turning...I found the pic where I had seen this from Jer's progress thread and it clearly shows that they modified the alternator bracket ...The threaded ear that bolts to the alternator is shaved off and a notch is cut out to accomodate the heim and threaded rod coupler.....what is the bottom of this setup mounted to? did they replace a the waterpump mounting bolt with a long stud/bolt and mount it there? it doesn't seem like that would be strong enough....looks like the only thing you sacrifice with this mod is the dampening effect of a spring tensioner.....thanks for the input....
alternator.jpg
 
Last edited:
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: A/C delete

When I was checkin it out on JER's truck, I saw about a 1" spacer on the water pump wiht a longer bolt through it. Illprobably play aroundwith it some when I do mine. I thought that it loked like it wouldnt be strong enough but when he had the truck running it ran nice and firm, no wobbling. When he was gettin on it and we were all racing, I didnt hear any belt squeal. I think hte ALT bracket will hold up just fine. Althoug I have seen those break without modding them. Perhaps the bracket in the back is enough to stabilize it. Dontknow, all I knwo is thats how im doing mine. That setup cossts maybe $40 and far less pulleys and crap to deal with. Much cleaner IMO.

Mike
 
9

93ty475

Donating Member
Re: A/C delete

here's some stuff I found at summit....looks like most of the parts are there to make this work....
sme-2000.jpg


here's another one...
sme-2001.jpg
 
9

93ty475

Donating Member
Re: A/C delete

I messed around with the a/c delete today....While I was at Autozone, I went ahead and picked up a universal alternator bracket....I mocked it up (spacing the back of the universal bracket with washers) and it held and lined up fine...I don't know how sturdy this will be, but I'm willing to be the guinea pig here....I plan to cut the excess(majority) portion of the universal chrome bracket just after the slotted portion of it ...it seems like a slotted alternator bracket without the curve would work better than the one I bought....the curve in this one doesn't help when adjusting the travel ...also plan to install one more bolt by drilling through our cast bracket and installing a third bolt below the two shown....The best belt I could find for this experiment was a six rib, 56" long one....part number 560K6....55" was too short and 57" was way too long.....The heim joint method is certainly better, but this way I'll only drill one hole into the cast bracket and it should give me time to come up with something better while I drive the truck around....keep in mind this is a very crude mod, but it might just work....also I wouldn't recommend anyone attempt this if using an engine driven fan as it might promote slipping of the waterpump pulley....

S2010074_001.jpg
 
ghettosled

ghettosled

SYTY SUPERSTORE
Re: A/C delete

i would be conserned the belt is going to slip on both the water pump and the power steering pump. There is hardly any contact area there. That GM bracket looks good, but has no tensioner. Problem with the heim on the alternator, is it kicks the alternator way up and may come in contact with the hood.. I had something similar on my ty back in the day with electric h20 pump.
 
9

93ty475

Donating Member
Re: A/C delete

ghettosled said:
i would be conserned the belt is going to slip on both the water pump and the power steering pump. There is hardly any contact area there. That GM bracket looks good, but has no tensioner. Problem with the heim on the alternator, is it kicks the alternator way up and may come in contact with the hood.. I had something similar on my ty back in the day with electric h20 pump.
Click to expand...

You make very valid points Mike.....But the power steering pump on my truck doesn't slip if I try to make it slip considering the lack of belt contact on the ps pulley....In fact, the crank pully (engine) turns when I cranked on the PS pump with channel locks over a rag....The waterpump, on the other hand, will slip if you really try (depending on how tight you set the alternator)....The most sensible solution, hands down, is an a/c delete kit such as the one you offer....I just thought I'd try this out for the hell of it and definitely wouldn't try this if I was to run an engine driven fan.....clutch or no clutch......I'll watch the coolant temps closely..... there's no problem on hood clearance on my truck from what I can tell as long as I run solid motor mounts.....I would prefer to run a tensioner to be perfectly honest with you.....just want to try this for a while since the truck doesn't really leave town.....And knowing myself, I won't be happy with the setup after the first week.... :lol:
 
ghettosled

ghettosled

SYTY SUPERSTORE
Re: A/C delete

my only reason for mentioning something was to validate why we chose to use an oem style tensioner and put the pulley where it was. It was the only way to accomplish what we wanted, and not have to worry about any negative side effects. For the DIY such as yourself, you really have nothing to loose so its worth the gamble. Like I said, on my old motor it was setup similar to what you have done, but it wasnt something i would recommend to the masses.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top