Accel coils are JUNK!!!

[75Monte]

Do not use an Accel coil. I was seeing as much as 11 degrees of Knock Retard at WOT and running terrible times (5.9 0-60, 14.8 1/4 mile). Couldn't diagnose it, so I switched back to my stock coil (75K miles on it) and my knock retard seems resonable for 92 octane (under 5 degrees) and it is pulling alot harder (didn't get a good datamaster record, but I know it is way faster). I'm ordering a new stocker coil.

 

[GM TURBO]

Their Cap & Rotors suck too....


Isn't there something in the FAQ saying anything from Accel sucks in our trucks??? I thought I remember reading that somewhere - maybe it was on Ivan's Page.

 

[Eluding]

Agreed. I hate Accell coils I've had two go bad on me in only a few thousand miles. I do like Accell Extreme 9000 plug wires, though.

 

[Daron]

I didnt have much luck with Accel ignition products either. Won't do their cap/rotor or coils again. I thought the FAQ mentioned that... Hmm I need to read it again.

 

[JoeLutz]

I'm glad you posted that. I have an Accel coil and I'm getting a lot of KR. I've got rid of all the other Accel stuff but the coil.

 

[75Monte]

Nothing in the FAQ about NOT using Accel coils or other products. Guess it should be since the coil I bought was BAD right out of the box. Silly me lost the receipt. I think some of my KR might also be contributed to the fact that I had cr43TS plugs instead of cr42TS (well, five of them were!! Grrr, that one behind the steering shaft was still a 42). I assume since the 43 is a hotter plug that it would increase the chances of pre-detonation? The gap on them was at .40 as well.

 

[mean green TY]

what happens when a coil goes bad.I ask because I've been haveing all kinds of ign.problems including knock and ping at 5lbs of boost.thanks Jack

 

[Daron]

Aaron,
Sounds like you had the ignition combo from hell... Any one of those issues could have been a prob, including the hotter plugs.
For the SyTy faq that warns about Accel stuff go here:

http://www.sytyarchives.com/faq/sytyfaq.php


_________________
Daron
1992 Typhoon Blue/Gray
1991 Syclone Best 1/4 12.42 @ 106.1
Member Of Freakin' Ohio (MOFO) SyTy

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Daron on 2001-12-25 20:08 ]</font>

 

[75Monte]

Daron,

Thanks for the link. Any chance we can get the SyTy.Net and the SyTyArchives.com FAQ's synchronized? Or maybe we should just put a link to the SyTyArchives FAQ on SyTy.Net instead of having two? I will post this suggestion in the Site enhancement forum.

Yes, my truck runs WAY better now that I have my ignition system in proper order.

 

[JimmyM]

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Jimmy on 2001-12-26 17:32 ]</font>

 

[JoeLutz]

Usually when a coil goes bad, the engine just quits running all together. Sometimes it will cut off when it gets hot driving down the road, similar to a bad ignition module. I've never heard or seen a coil cause spark knock before now, but I hope that this is a solution. In fact I just went an bought a new AC coil to replace my Accel which seemed to be working fine. Have to wait for the stupid transmission gets fixed before I can try it out though.

 

[75Monte]

On 2001-12-28 11:56, joeelutz wrote:
Usually when a coil goes bad, the engine just quits running all together. Sometimes it will cut off when it gets hot driving down the road, similar to a bad ignition module. I've never heard or seen a coil cause spark knock before now, but I hope that this is a solution. In fact I just went an bought a new AC coil to replace my Accel which seemed to be working fine. Have to wait for the stupid transmission gets fixed before I can try it out though.

Yeah, I don't understand it either. Maybe the Accel coil is TOO HOT?? Wouldn't that cause it to pre-detonate (knock) easier? I am too used to normally aspirated cars, this Turbo stuff has me out of my league.

 

[JoeLutz]

On 2001-12-28 14:06, 75Monte wrote:

On 2001-12-28 11:56, joeelutz wrote:
Usually when a coil goes bad, the engine just quits running all together. Sometimes it will cut off when it gets hot driving down the road, similar to a bad ignition module. I've never heard or seen a coil cause spark knock before now, but I hope that this is a solution. In fact I just went an bought a new AC coil to replace my Accel which seemed to be working fine. Have to wait for the stupid transmission gets fixed before I can try it out though.

Yeah, I don't understand it either. Maybe the Accel coil is TOO HOT?? Wouldn't that cause it to pre-detonate (knock) easier? I am too used to normally aspirated cars, this Turbo stuff has me out of my league.

Hmmmm. You may be on to something. Mabey its the same as running too hot of a plug.

 

[Tooky]

All I know is, I had my stock, new (5 months old) black ACDelco coil installed and I tried switching to my P.O.-installed red Accel GM Blaster 2 Coil for a test, and my knock retard was immediately out of control, 9, 10, 11* of KR with only a split second of heavy throttle (80%?). Switching back to the stock coil returned things to normal (which I'm sorry to say is not 0* knock but certainly better than 10).

 

[CLONE]

On 2002-01-15 02:03, TookyCat wrote:
All I know is, I had my stock, new (5 months old) black ACDelco coil installed and I tried switching to my P.O.-installed red Accel GM Blaster 2 Coil for a test, and my knock retard was immediately out of control, 9, 10, 11* of KR with only a split second of heavy throttle (80%?). Switching back to the stock coil returned things to normal (which I'm sorry to say is not 0* knock but certainly better than 10).

Blaster 2 is MSD, not Accel.

 

[Tooky]

You're right, it is an MSD I was talking about after all. Sorry

 

[SycloneJJK]

I'm glad I saw this I've been running an accel coil for a long time, I guess I'll try the stocker and see how it works.

 

[V6 Kompressor]

Just remember, if you have a high voltage distribution problem (Plug insulators, wires, cap, rot. button), throwing more voltage at it is going to make it worse, IE: if you have a hose pipe with a small water leak at 50 psi, and you put 100 psi on it, guess what will happen... or if you have A marginal pipe just barely enough to hold 50 psi, and you increase the pressure, guess what???? These turbo engines put a huge demand on your high voltage spark system, if it isn't in the best of shapes...the spark will go where it wants to, not where it should.....

 

[75Monte]

On 2002-01-30 22:16, Dragrace55 wrote:
Just remember, if you have a high voltage distribution problem (Plug insulators, wires, cap, rot. button), throwing more voltage at it is going to make it worse, IE: if you have a hose pipe with a small water leak at 50 psi, and you put 100 psi on it, guess what will happen... or if you have A marginal pipe just barely enough to hold 50 psi, and you increase the pressure, guess what???? These turbo engines put a huge demand on your high voltage spark system, if it isn't in the best of shapes...the spark will go where it wants to, not where it should.....

Hmm......I did have old plugs and plug wires when I did the swap. Cap and rotor were new. I have since put Black Beauties and new AC Delco's R42TS in and adjust the timing from +2 to 0 degrees. I will put the Accel coil back on and see what happens (as soon as this damn winter storm is over). I might owe Accel an apology....stay tuned.

 

[75Monte]

Okay, so I put the Accel back on....and it runs great!! So, I admit that I jumped to conclusions (my girlfriend says I can't admit when I am wrong, ha, I'll show her). It makes sense now, throwing a hotter coil on with old plugs (R43TS worn to .40 gap) and old wires will cause additional electrical problems, thus increasing knock. I believe someone who tried the MSD 6AL ignition control (or whatever it is called) had similar problems. I post this hoping that other people can learn from my mistake.

The best part about this is that while testing the coil I got to totally humiliate a mid-80's Rustang 5.0 from a stop light.