Aftermarket Boost controller?

[libertysyclone]

What would be the best aftermarket boost controller (stock sy), how hard is it to install, what happens to the stock controller. also do our syty's have BOV's? if so where, if not why not and would it hurt to have one?

one quik other ? does anyone know of or make a standalone ignition controller (independent coil for each plug no dist.) I have seen it done on many imports ie the mr2?

 

[epix]

Electronix Boost Controllers are the best but are pricey ($300+) Many people just use a standard Manual Boost Controller which can be found online from $30-$200.. Or can be made by yourself in less than $10 of parts.

SyTy's do not need a BOV (Invisibill can answer the reasons why). I don't think it really has any disadvantages nor advantages to adding a blow off valve.. I guess if ya like the noise it makes than get one 8)

 

[ed hess]

I have a bov for one reason and one reason only.... suppose i over boost.

The bov will protect my motor!

nuff said!

ed

 

[E-Rue]

I have a bov for one reason and one reason only.... suppose i over boost.

The bov will protect my motor!

nuff said!

ed

no it wont.... your talking about a pop off valve.

e

 

[ed hess]

e
I am sitting here reading this and mike pearce walks into my office.

Yo mike is this a pop off valve or bov.....

run into shop

mike says, "doenst look like a Bov so you must have a pop off valve.

So my motor is protected.

thanks e

dont scare me like that

ed

 

[InvisiBill]

Be careful with the stock setup. The stock wastegate is pretty inadequate. Due to the crappiness of the stock wastegate setup, a "boost valve" can lead to dangerous spikes of overboost.

A popoff valve is simply a valve that opens at __psi. Put a 25psi valve between the turbo and intake, and it'll never let your engine see more than 25psi. Under 25psi, you won't know it's there. This is all assuming it works right. Some have had leaky valves, which leads to problems building boost and stuff. If the valve is broken in some other way, it may not open at 25psi like it's supposed to. In that case, your safety device isn't really making it any safer.

A blowoff valve is similar, but has a vac line hooked to the intake. When you let off the gas, the throttle blades slam shut. The turbo is still spinning and pressurizing the air. The pressure has nowhere to go, except back out through the turbo and air filter. (This is the "turbo flutter" sound you hear more with a cold air kit.) The blowoff valve sees the pressure difference between the engine intake (now in vacuum) and the still-pressurized intake path (IC, tubing, etc.). The blowoff valve vents the extra pressure out to the atmosphere so it doesn't have to go back out the whole intake path. By not being forced bakc out the intake, it puts less stress on the turbo and doesn't slow it down as much. It won't take as much to spool the turbo back up in on-off-on situations, and the turbo should last a little longer.

It's a bigger issue with a manaul transmission because you're on and off the gas a lot to shift. With an auto, the throttle stays open. Many people have tons of miles on their trucks with no problems with the stock turbo. I've got 147,000 on mine, and it's still pretty tight. Again, if the valve isn't working right, which has been a problem for some, either you'll have leaks in your intake or it won't actually do what it's supposed to. Personally, due to the problems I've seen, I don't plan to install a BOV. In our setup, it only does anything when you're in boost and suddenly let off the gas (which really shouldn't be that often).

 

[ed hess]

mine is definatley a pop off based on that description.

I have no vacuum line on mine.

harry anderson gave it to me.

Harry had it set for 26 psi.

Better protection than nothing at all.

ed

 

[rockvillespeed]

ed, built a test fixture of some sort and check it!
use a bike tire or something closed at one end and hit it with air.
a popoff, if its a good one, is usually very reliable.
its pretty damn simple, after all.
btw, indy cars (real ones, not irl) have used em for years.
i'd actually like to see a pic of it.

 

[Trevor]

This thing works great and is rediculously cheap.
http://www.proboostmbc.com/
I get rock solid boost with it no matter what the weather. I have it set at 13 psi and it varies between 12.8-13.2 psi. With stock boost control it would waver from 11-16 psi...and of course I'd be knocking my butt off on 91 octane when it hit 16 psi. The only time it's not right at 13psi is if I punch it at 10 mph or so and it downshifts to 1st...then it'll spike to 14-15psi for a split second then settle right back down. The only complaint I have with it is the adjustment is VERY fine. You barely adjust it and it makes a relatively large change....talking like 1/10th of a turn per psi. Once you adjust it then it's good though.

 

[rockvillespeed]

I'M REAL HAPPY WITH MY RAMCHARGERS BOOST COMMANDR, AND ITS CHEAP
oops-sorry
like 160 bucks or so

 

[steve-o]

btw, indy cars (real ones, not irl) have used em for years.i'd actually like to see a pic of it.

Sorry to chime in on a tangent but fwiw i have a few pics on file of our cosworth XFE engine in a champ car. i build XFE cylinder heads at cosworth and i managed to make it out to a few tracks (Long Beach, Laguna Seca, Fontana) a couple times and snap some pics.
i've looked through all my pictures though and found that none clearly show the POV on the motor. CART calibrates and monitors the whereabouts of all of them to ensure that they aren't tampered with. so, they are almost always removed from the engine minutes after the car is pushed under the tent in the paddock. it's mounted straight up in the center of the plenum and there is a hole in the engine cover where it sticks through. so i have pics of the engine (in the car w/engine cover off) with a block-off plate on top of the engine, aaand another that shows a car with the POV in place.
if you are interested i can post some but i have no host.

 

[spooldup]

I'm running a profec b and spoolup time is drasticly reduced! I have it set for 15psi and it's right on.

 

[AXXE]

I ran with the stock chip, Ultimate chip, and manual controller. Boost control sucks with the stock turbo over 16 psi. I don't know if there is any way to help it out.

 

[libertysyclone]

What about an aftermarket wastegate (if they make such a thing)?

 

[InvisiBill]

This thing works great and is rediculously cheap.
http://www.proboostmbc.com/

That's the same thing as the "Boost Valve". Before I saw them for sale anywhere, instructions to make one were posted here as a "Grainger valve", as it was made with a few parts from Grainger. Essentially all these valves are simply a threaded rod with a spring and a ball to make a check valve. Turning the rod adjusts the pressure, which affects the PSI at which the air pressure overcomes the spring and pushes the ball up, allowing air to pass through. There's a fancier one out there too, with a lighter ceramic ball (instead of metal) and cable-actuated remote adjustment. The valve itself is the same thing though.

I ran with the stock chip, Ultimate chip, and manual controller. Boost control sucks with the stock turbo over 16 psi. I don't know if there is any way to help it out.

What about an aftermarket wastegate (if they make such a thing)?

Yes, do a search for "external wastegate". They're quite common. Or you can improve the flow of the stock wastegate. Porting it can improve the flow a little. Opening up the service port on the back of the turbo will give the wastegate a straight shot into a modified downpipe. Christian Dionne did this a while ago, and so did JS not too long ago. Christian said it got rid of all the problems associated with the stock wastegate. This is what I plan to do eventually, as it basically only requires upgrading the downpipe (which has other benefits too).