Anyone have pictures of an ATR battery relocate installed?

[Blake]

I tried doing a search on this and came up empty so don't bitch
I'm trying to figure out what to do with my battery I've already got and it is a full size 1000 amp Duralast.
I tried to get a smaller battery to relocate it straight down in the little cubby under the headlight in the engine bay but still wouldn't go down in there.
I looked up under the cladding in the front and the brace is in the way. I kinda stuck the battery up in there and it hung down almost 3 inches because of the stupid brace.
Is there a special battery that is used for the ATR kit?
Any pics of the kit installed would really help.
Thanks guys. Trying to get some stuff done before the Ohio meet this saturday.
I don't have the ATR kit but it is the closest idea of battery relocation that I would like to try.
George

 

[Opleezz]

I have the ATR kit but, i do not like it very much and from what i have read on here, i would consider locating it to the back of the truck if i were you, i will take pictures of my kit for you but the batt, is not in there, you can get an idea of what it looks like, send me an email and i will reply back with some pictures, i have mine back in the stock location this might help you, out on information cause i had the same problem

http://syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10780&highlight=

 

[Blake]

Found some stuff in the old Syty.org. God. Almost forgot about that resource. It has an excellent search engine now. You get what you type. Pretty cool.
Just need to figure out how to correct the gaudy look when the bumper kicks out when the brace on that side is removed. Ughh.
Thanks,
George

 

[AXXE]

I have the ATR kit. It sucks. Mount the battery in the back where the spare tire used to be. You'll be much happier.

 

[Blake]

Just got done with the relocate today. Ended up building my own. Fit down there like a glove. Used 36" 6gauge cable, made an aluminum plate, made a thru connector to isolate things so I could still jump the battery from inside. Mine appears much stronger than the ATR shelf. cost about $40 for everything. Everything is functional :-? That was a relief.
Tire goes through full rotation with 4" clearance. I ended up getting a battery with top posts so I could get some more top clearance. All is left is to pull it, paint it, and get some ABS plastic sheeting from the stereo shop to box it in to protect the terminals from the weather. Kinda looks like those errector robots sets, techi. I like it anyway :wink:
We'll see how it does over the next few days.

At the same time I did the auxillary transcooler. Holes lined up perfect. It was like GM set it up for one but never put it in there :roll:

Also used a tranny cooler I got from the end tank off a radiator of a dodge minivan a few years ago when I worked at a body shop. Use it for a power steering cooler. Looks like it was supposed to go there.Just had to file a little off the back of the grill down at the bottom back where you can't see it.

Now all I have to do is figure out how to get my dag gone air inlet elbow to make a 90 degree toward the fender. How do you guys do that? Between the tranny cooler lines and the AC lines there is zero room. It is like 1" too small to get through there. I can go up and over and snake it down but I was trying toavoid all the excess ducting.
If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

Thanks so much for the pictures you emailed me. They really helped.

 

[BillC]

Now all I have to do is figure out how to get my dag gone air inlet elbow to make a 90 degree toward the fender. How do you guys do that? Between the tranny cooler lines and the AC lines there is zero room. It is like 1" too small to get through there.

Try getting a "cobra" elbow. I had to use one when I installed my PT52, and it works very well. I got mine from Airflow Products, at:
http://www.airflo.com/rubberparts.html . Nice people, good product, quick shipping. All the usual disclaimers, though (no connection, YMMV, etc.)

You may also need to bend the a/c line to clear the hose. Most people with bigger turbos (myself included) have done this. It's easy and only takes a few minutes. All you need to do is bend the aluminum hard pipe on top of the compressor so the hose runs down on the driver's side of the turbo inlet (between the inlet and the radiator shroud) instead of on the passenger's side. BE VERY CAREFUL and take your time when doing this. You want to bend the pipe at the curve above the a/c clutch. Just straighten the pipe (remove the bend). DO NOT try to twist it where it attaches to the mounting block -- you'll snap it off.

Good Luck.