ATR WG question
- Thread starter AJ
- Start date
Syclone#1992
SyTy.net Moderator
My Typhoons wastegate used to be an ATR, the previous owner changed it to an HKS that has rock solid boost.....
AJ
New member
hey Tim,
thanks for the reply,
Do you know if he directly removed the WG from the ATR down pipe, and placed the HKS where the ATR was with out any modification?
That would be great if it was the case, But it sounds a little too easy.
The last thing I want to do is go back in and pull off that downpipe again.
thanks,
AJ
thanks for the reply,
Do you know if he directly removed the WG from the ATR down pipe, and placed the HKS where the ATR was with out any modification?
That would be great if it was the case, But it sounds a little too easy.
The last thing I want to do is go back in and pull off that downpipe again.
thanks,
AJ
Back in the day when i had my atr dp, i ended up welding on an HKS gate. You do have to whack off the flanges, and reweld on new ones...its no big deal though. YOu might as well get a mini or pro Innovative gate. BUt whatever route you take, you're gonna have to cut/weld the dp.
later
jordan
later
jordan
AJ
New member
uugghhhhh..., drag!
Thxs for the reply Jordan.
Has anyone else had problems with their ATR WG?
I had read on their site that they are field rebuildable.
I guess that means that you could rebuild them in the parking lot if you had too. Has anyone done this, and how much trouble is it?
one would assume that they have a kit to rebuild this as well?
All I know is, that to verify that my WG was not working correctly. I discoed my bleeder valve, and I hooked up the hose from the compressor side of the turbo to the port on the WG, and backed out the shaft on top of the WG almost all the way out, and still was producing 20 PSI. I had noticed when I took the rubber hose off the WG originally running from the bleeder valve the hose was hard as a rock and brittle. (Intense heat?) The brass port itself was discolored. (much like you see in heat fatiuge) After I had hooked up the hose from the Turbo compressor straight to the WG port and ran the truck for about 15 minutes, I noticed the end of the hose hooked up to the WG port was smoking and loosing it's structual integrity. ( i.e expanding)
The ATR sticker that sits on top of the WG has long ago turned black and melted off.
I looked here in the forums to see if someone had done a field rebuild of an ATR WG, but did not find a reference.
I've seen what these WG look like inside, however I did not know if there was some special method for doing a rebuild, other than the obvious.
Thanks, AJ
Thxs for the reply Jordan.
Has anyone else had problems with their ATR WG?
I had read on their site that they are field rebuildable.
I guess that means that you could rebuild them in the parking lot if you had too. Has anyone done this, and how much trouble is it?
one would assume that they have a kit to rebuild this as well?
All I know is, that to verify that my WG was not working correctly. I discoed my bleeder valve, and I hooked up the hose from the compressor side of the turbo to the port on the WG, and backed out the shaft on top of the WG almost all the way out, and still was producing 20 PSI. I had noticed when I took the rubber hose off the WG originally running from the bleeder valve the hose was hard as a rock and brittle. (Intense heat?) The brass port itself was discolored. (much like you see in heat fatiuge) After I had hooked up the hose from the Turbo compressor straight to the WG port and ran the truck for about 15 minutes, I noticed the end of the hose hooked up to the WG port was smoking and loosing it's structual integrity. ( i.e expanding)
The ATR sticker that sits on top of the WG has long ago turned black and melted off.
I looked here in the forums to see if someone had done a field rebuild of an ATR WG, but did not find a reference.
I've seen what these WG look like inside, however I did not know if there was some special method for doing a rebuild, other than the obvious.
Thanks, AJ
atc82
New member
I believe that Limit Engineering can modify the wastegate so it works correctly. My brothers truck has one on it that was fixed by Limit and it works well. Only about 1 to 2 psi of creep over a 1/4 mile blast. The pic below is not a full 1/4 mile run, but you can see the boost is very solid.
This is running the wastegate in dual port mode with a regulator from Home Depot. I am not really sure what Limit Engineering does to fix it, because the previous owner had the work done.
http://www.limitengineering.com/
A Minigate from Innovative or a Progate would be much better though as previously stated by TealTy.
HTH
This is running the wastegate in dual port mode with a regulator from Home Depot. I am not really sure what Limit Engineering does to fix it, because the previous owner had the work done.
http://www.limitengineering.com/
A Minigate from Innovative or a Progate would be much better though as previously stated by TealTy.
HTH
Syclone#1992
SyTy.net Moderator
Don't quote me on this but I think Brian Green had or knew someone that got it portmatched and rebuilt, and still had boost creep.....basically from what I hear they are garbage rebuilt or not......
AJ
New member
Thanks guys for replying.
Well, after the fact, I have not heard great things about them.
But unfortunately it what I have at the moment, and I'd like to spend as little money and time on it as I can. Which I know for our trucks, is very rare. LOL
I had originally sent the DP & WG back to ATR and told them that I did'nt think that it was working properly, and they said they had a few issues with one of the holes that the WG connects to not being proper size.
So they said they would port & polish it for me.
when It came back, and I hooked it up, it did the same thing.
How does Limit Eng. modify the WG?
When I use the term "Boost Creep", it's not even a creep, it moves on up very quickly past 14, and pegs 20 PSI very quick. I've had several backfires when it does this, which I know is not good, and I come off the gas quick.
If I take the "Billet Hat" off the WG, would there be any tell tell signs that I'd be looking for?
Thxs, AJ
Well, after the fact, I have not heard great things about them.
But unfortunately it what I have at the moment, and I'd like to spend as little money and time on it as I can. Which I know for our trucks, is very rare. LOL
I had originally sent the DP & WG back to ATR and told them that I did'nt think that it was working properly, and they said they had a few issues with one of the holes that the WG connects to not being proper size.
So they said they would port & polish it for me.
when It came back, and I hooked it up, it did the same thing.
How does Limit Eng. modify the WG?
When I use the term "Boost Creep", it's not even a creep, it moves on up very quickly past 14, and pegs 20 PSI very quick. I've had several backfires when it does this, which I know is not good, and I come off the gas quick.
If I take the "Billet Hat" off the WG, would there be any tell tell signs that I'd be looking for?
Thxs, AJ
atc82
New member
I am not really sure what they do, but John Craig is the guy you need to get in contact with at LE. There may be some people here that can tell you exactly what they do to it, but here is his email address from their website.
johncraig@limitengineering.com
johncraig@limitengineering.com
Maverick87
Member
Did you get the valve unstuck? When I first got mine I had boost control issues. I went in and inlarged the pasage in the gate and also inlarged the hole in the turbo to the same size as the one in the dp. Now I have rock solid boost. What spring do you have in the gate.
Also if it has gotten this hot the diafram in the wg is probly not any good.
Also if it has gotten this hot the diafram in the wg is probly not any good.
AJ
New member
Thanks for replying Tyler & Mav.
Well, you would think that having it repaired would be the most cost effective, however after speaking with ATR, (I hate doing business with this company) they said they charge by the hour for repair, and that does not include parts. They could not give me a ball park estimate on what it would cost. Time you throw in shipping, ect, it will come damn close to the price of a new one. So I might as well go for the new one.
They have a rebuild kit, but I'm not confident of my skills to rebuild it correctly. Besides that, they want $40 for the diaphram alone.
Yeah, you are right mav, the heat had did a number to the diaphram.
I originally had this problem prior, and sent the whole DP, WG, and turbo back at my cost shipping for them to port and polish several openings that were not correct from the get go.
Today after I took the WG off I had to take a hammer to make the rod move. When I did, the little brass (bushing, bearing?) that goes around the shaft popped out.
The people from ATR tried to tell me it was from the lack of driving my typhoon that the rod siezed up. I put less than 500 miles on my truck per year, so they said that what caused it to siezed. I was like, uh huh.
Sounds like a convienent excuse to me. I only have 73,000 original miles on the motor. Anyhow, I'm looking for a new replacement, if I can find one. I just don't want to give ATR any more of my money.
Thxs again for the help,
AJ
Well, you would think that having it repaired would be the most cost effective, however after speaking with ATR, (I hate doing business with this company) they said they charge by the hour for repair, and that does not include parts. They could not give me a ball park estimate on what it would cost. Time you throw in shipping, ect, it will come damn close to the price of a new one. So I might as well go for the new one.
They have a rebuild kit, but I'm not confident of my skills to rebuild it correctly. Besides that, they want $40 for the diaphram alone.
Yeah, you are right mav, the heat had did a number to the diaphram.
I originally had this problem prior, and sent the whole DP, WG, and turbo back at my cost shipping for them to port and polish several openings that were not correct from the get go.
Today after I took the WG off I had to take a hammer to make the rod move. When I did, the little brass (bushing, bearing?) that goes around the shaft popped out.
The people from ATR tried to tell me it was from the lack of driving my typhoon that the rod siezed up. I put less than 500 miles on my truck per year, so they said that what caused it to siezed. I was like, uh huh.
Sounds like a convienent excuse to me. I only have 73,000 original miles on the motor. Anyhow, I'm looking for a new replacement, if I can find one. I just don't want to give ATR any more of my money.
Thxs again for the help,
AJ