Baer Brakes

lt, hi
i am very interested in some of these noted items - especially frame bracing.
what are u building, and what kinda reductions in deflection are we talking?
weld in or bolt?
how soon available? - i want em. bad.
 
sorry bout the dbl post - it got away from me there!!
have u found a way to dust boot the heims?
brake wise, which caliper will u be selling in the kit, and is any spindle work nec. to install them?
do the spindles need to come off?
what is in the 400 dollar rear suspension kit?
thanks a lot
mike
 
oh - chrmoly steering system?
wuzzat all about?
this stuff sounds interesting.
also, pls email me privately regarding a jobber acct
thanks
 

Lt250suzuk

New member
Mike,
The Wilwood brake kit will consist of two Billet dynalite calipers for the rear and 2 Superlite 6 calipers for the front. The rears are 4 piston caliper and the front are a 6 piston caliper. These will be matched to a 12.19 in front rotor and a 11.7 in rear rotor.
The steering system I am working consists of a completely new system from after the box to the front spindles. What this will do is eliminate weight and also give a much more precise steering feel without all of the deflection. I do have the tierods ready for sale and they will work with both the new system and the stock system.
As far as the frame bracing goes, I have not yet started work on these as I have to finish some of the other products first. These will be ready over the winter for sale and should be very inexpensive. It will be a choice if you want weld on or bolt on but I would go bolt as the performance difference will not be worth the extra hassle of welding and trying to work around something else on these trucks. If you want to talk about jobber pricing and such please call. Thank you.
 

Lt250suzuk

New member
Dave, I have made a few changes to the brake kit and I should have price by next week as they should be ready for sale at the end of next week. Sorry for the delay everyone. Also did you decide what wheels you are going with?
Mike, well I have two different rear suspension kits. The first one is the coilover kit which is pretty awesome and works great but does require welding and cutting on the stock frame. The second kit is a bolt on kit that will work with the stock leaf springs and shocks. It will basically allow the leaf springs to work at their peak performance. I should have pics of this at the end of next week as it should also be ready for sale then.
 

GM TURBO

Sell Out
Al,

I am still waiting. I have found out within the last 24 hours I am not going to have as much "fun" money left after all is said and done with the insurance. I am still keeping you in mind - maybe not wheels - but suspension goodies after I get the wheel dilema settled. I will HOPEFULLY know the end of this week what wheels I am going to have.
 

Lt250suzuk

New member
Mike, the reason I have not said what is in the kit is because it is not finalized yet. Once the design is finalized and tested I will release what the kit consist's of. Sorry about that. I do this because I tend to make many changes during the design and testing as I am a very picky person and won't leave it alone until I think it good.
 
no sweat - wasnt trying to hassle you - just intesely curious what wizardry u have come up with to make leafs work as a proper suspension.
doug at global west has develpoed something extremely trick (mounting the shackles in floaters to eliminate side loading) and i am looking forward to seeing what u've scome up with
will wait and watch this thread , same bat time, same bat channel
thanks
mike
 

UNIsackV6

Member
Everyone together Al Rules, Al Rules, Al Rules, Al Rules, Al Rules, Al Rules, Al Rules can't wait to hear more...gotta love people who make new products for our trucks...
 
al - i will shortly be offering front swaybars in inch and 3/8 and inch and 1/2.
anyone who is interested in one please email me
thanks
mike
 
al, have u plotted the front end's camber curve?
if so, would u share?
also, like to see same on your new coil over deal, and a good pic of the upper coilpver mount.
thanks a lot
mike
 

Lt250suzuk

New member
Mike, the camber curve is the same as stock so there is no need to plot it. The front suspension is the same geometry as stock. I didn't change anything. I couldn't change anything unless I changed the mounts for the control arms. Pics for the mounts are all on my website.
If you don't mind me asking, why do want to make such a big front swaybar? This is only going to increase understeer. Or do you have something for the rear as well? I am interested to know what your thoughts are on this.
 
hiya
well, a few reasons - one is personally, i HATE body roll (i am a wkend roadracer).
the trucks flat out, imo, need more spring rate, and i am not willing to chg the tbars, as the next step up is substantially stiffer...i live in a bumpy area, and stiifer springs will just bounce it round, and give me even more interior rattles and creaks then i already have. i have always been from the soft spring, monster bar school of thought for street/track vehicles, and set up most of my customers that way. i feel it makes for a better ride/handling compromise then a super high rate.
last, off top of my head, is it will go a long long way toward eliminating mad spinning of the inside front tire when launching off a corner - mine just smokes up froma standstill, and i like to leap out into tiny gaps in traffic, but can't well as i like.
yes, it will bring in some understeer, but nothing hard to balance out with an atr rr bar for the ty guys, or the rear bar for sy's we r also gonna offer (later) in 1.5 inch. i also use and recommend airbags in the rear for lowered trucks (which is most around here), which, if set up with separate fills, are an easy way to tune rear spring rate (tho, yes, psi will vary with temp, etc).
oh - i am rather sure the stock geometry up front ain't zactly giving a nice neg camber gain under compression, so, like in many cases such as fox-up mustangs, and a-body gm cars, a huge front bar will limit body roll such that less positive camber gain occurs, actually improving front grip (this has been proven time and again as i put customers into 1.5 inch front bars in a bodies, and 1-3/8 in mustangs.) this is why i wondered if you had plotted out the geometry. my copy of my front end program (i forget the name) was stolen by soemone who shall die for many sins when i find him.
thanks, mike
 

Lt250suzuk

New member
Mike, I am glad to see you are going to be offering a rear bar to match your front. There are other ways to eliminate body roll without going very stiff springs or huge bars. I run a spring rate of 575lbs in the front coilover kit, this rate is 75lbs stiffer than stock, but what made the big difference was the custom valved shocks and the reduction in unsprung weight. I would like to try one of your bars and see how it would act but as most people can tell you, may truck has no body roll in it. To bad you were not at nationals, I would have liked to have talked to you in person and discuss suspension setups. This is a area often overlooked by most people and it is fun when other people take a interest in it. The one thing I have found out from racing is that every chassis tuner has his own train of thought when it comes to setting up a race car chassis. The stiff bars may be a very nice addition for someone not ready to purchase one of my systems or if they feel like they want with the system. What do you make your bars out of? Are they hollow? Do you make your bars in house? I am very curious on this as I have need for some custom bars made for a project I am working on. Please let me know. Thanks again.
 
HI AL
NOT HOLLOW - SOLID
NO, THESE ARENT IN-HOUSE - I AM A SPEEDSHOP, NOT A MANUFACTURER.
oops-sorry on caps lok.
i commissioned one of my smaller, more agreeable suspension vendors to build them.
min. run is 50 pieces, unfortuantely.
if u need a piecemeal part made, i would go to your local chassis fabricator and use some nascar style splined bars, and just have the ends made - expensive, but easy proposition for a one time shot.
the splined bars are normal nascar pieces, available in a variety of torsional rates.
hope that helps some.
 
btw, a ? - we have had serious warping problems with wilwoods skinny rotors on havier street vehicles - which rptors are u using, and have u thought of coleman rotors as an alternative if using the welds?
 
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