Batterey Relocation Calbes?

[syclomatic]

Ok, when i got my truck, it allready had a batterey relocation, but it home made by the owner before me. It had the 1/10 Welding wire, and was all exposed at each end, and I was having a starting problem. I decided to change them out, and my VoTech teacher was telling me that the wire was too big for the regular battry that I have. Other people are telling me that if I am stretch the cable that far I need it that size. I know ATR made some calbes for there relocation kit, what kind were they. I just need to know, whether to get more welding wire, or get regular batterey cable, but what gauge should I get?

 

[SCWolverine]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

I decided to change them out, and my VoTech teacher was telling me that the wire was too big for the regular battry that I have.

Too big won't hurt anything but your wallet, I'd go with what you had (1/0). Welding cable is fine, be sure your terminals are secure (and wrapped up), and add a dab of grease to the connection after it's tight (prevent corrosion). I know it's an oval, but at least it's a truck, this guy has a good page on this (first I could find):

http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/weight/battery_relocate.htm

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

I agree can't hurt to go with larger cabling.. redo your ends and be done with it.. also make sure your grounds are clean

 

[syclomatic]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Thats another thing, where should I ground it? Right now it is grounded right under the batterey on the strut looking thing, that supports the bed. That didn't seem like a good ground to me, is it?

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Thats another thing, where should I ground it? Right now it is grounded right under the batterey on the strut looking thing, that supports the bed. That didn't seem like a good ground to me, is it?

That sounds like a good spot I have each head grounded there but you have to make sure it's not painted.. the ground terminal must be attached to a clean spot (bare metal) get a wire brush and clean the surface

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

You may both be overlooking something: If the NEGATIVE cable is connected (grounded) to the frame, in the vicinity of the battery, then you MUST also ground the engine to the frame with an additional 'jumper'. The engine is usually mounted in rubber; there aren't any great ground paths available without the jumper.

A Stock truck has the large batt cable connected to the block (starter loads). A small guage jumped connects to the frame rail. ( fuel pump and guage). Lights, etc are connected to the body, which is an additional jumper.

Think about it..................

Dave P

besides the neg from the battery going to the frame I personally have a ground off the front of the pas head to frame, off back of pas head to frame, off driver side head to frame and now adding a ground from the alt case to frame.. the stock head light harness still grounds to the core support.. what else would you suggest?

- Ryan

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Ok, when i got my truck, it allready had a batterey relocation, but it home made by the owner before me. It had the 1/10 Welding wire, and was all exposed at each end, and I was having a starting problem. I decided to change them out, and my VoTech teacher was telling me that the wire was too big for the regular battry that I have. Other people are telling me that if I am stretch the cable that far I need it that size. I know ATR made some calbes for there relocation kit, what kind were they. I just need to know, whether to get more welding wire, or get regular batterey cable, but what gauge should I get?

Big cable is good Justin. One ground directly to the frame from the battery, one similar sized to the engine block from the frame at the front, a smaller auxiliary ground directly to the alternator. Remember, the alternator is supplying all of the truck's power when the engine is running so there has to be a clear and adequate ground from the alternator to the battery. Battery to engine ground has to be good to ensure good starter operation.
1/0 cable works great for the main grounds, 4 gauge works fine as the auxiliary ground from the frame/engine ground up to the alternator.

 

[syclomatic]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

I don't have a ground from the block that I know of, I will check tomorrow. Boosted, do I need all of the Jumper grounds that you have, or will one do? Just wondering.

 

[syclomatic]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Big cable is good Justin. One ground directly to the frame from the battery, one similar sized to the engine block from the frame at the front, a smaller auxiliary ground directly to the alternator. Remember, the alternator is supplying all of the truck's power when the engine is running so there has to be a clear and adequate ground from the alternator to the battery. Battery to engine ground has to be good to ensure good starter operation.
1/0 cable works great for the main grounds, 4 gauge works fine as the auxiliary ground from the frame/engine ground up to the alternator.

Thanks Rob, I was just worrying about that, my automotive teacher said that the cable was so big, that I was losing power from the battery by the time it got to the starter.

I am going to go with the big cable, and make some good grounds, hopefully this will fix my starting problem! Wish me luck :tup:

 

[Flyin Ryan]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

I don't have a ground from the block that I know of, I will check tomorrow. Boosted, do I need all of the Jumper grounds that you have, or will one do? Just wondering.

No you don't need all the grounds I did.. I believe oem you should have a ground strap from the driver's side head to the firewall.. also if your neg battery cable is grounded to the frame then you need to ground the pas side head to frame.. I used the stock location of the neg battery cable which is on the back of the pas side head.

- Ryan

 

[James Thomas]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Thanks Rob, I was just worrying about that, my automotive teacher said that the cable was so big, that I was losing power from the battery by the time it got to the starter.

Damn man, if your "automotive teacher" really said that, I'd be worried about what else he is "teaching" :squint: ? In fact, if this is true.... not only is he wrong and shouldn't be teaching a Vo-Tec class (maybe P.E. would be ok?), he needs to go back to school himself!

There is no such thing as "too large a conductor" for 12 volt automotive use ( larger is better in this case for sure)!

________
James

 

[SCWolverine]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Damn man, if your "automotive teacher" really said that, I'd be worried about what else he is "teaching" :squint: ? In fact, if this is true.... not only is he wrong and shouldn't be teaching a Vo-Tec class (maybe P.E. would be ok?), he needs to go back to school himself!

There is no such thing as "too large a conductor" for 12 volt automotive use ( larger is better in this case for sure)!

________
James

Exactly, if your VoTech program has any electronics classes, have a chat wit one of those instructors (older the better). For a good laugh, introduce him to the "auto guy".

 

[syclomatic]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Yeah, thats what I thought as well...I think he was saying that my batterey isnt good enough for the cable, it a 1000cca everstart.

 

[James Thomas]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Ohm's law (the short version) = a smaller batt. with a larger cable (less resistance) will drive a load that a larger battery with smaller cable won't (more resistance). He's still incorrect and you 1000 amp cca batt. if in good condition is great! Many batteries are rated at less than 700 cca and your 1000 amp is actually over the recommended size. Anyone jump in here and correct me if I'm wrong here but I think our trucks were rated for a A/C Delco at 685 cca? Again, in battery selection bigger is better!

___________
James

 

[SCWolverine]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

in battery selection bigger is better!

Depending on what you're doing. By rights all the battery has to do is get the engine running, from there it's all alternator. "Engine off" activities (stereo...) might require more battery reserve.

Yeah, thats what I thought as well...I think he was saying that my batterey isnt good enough for the cable, it a 1000cca everstart.

Guess I could buy it if he meant it wasn't necessary, but saying a larger conductor is "robbing power" is blasphemous. [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georg_Ohm]Georg[/url] will be by to bitch slap him shortly...

 

[James Thomas]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Mmmmm...... ok I'll bite. Maybe not "better" if you don't need it but it fer sure can't hurt to have more Ah capacity.

________
James

 

[SCWolverine]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Mmmmm...... ok I'll bite. Maybe not "better" if you don't need it but it fer sure can't hurt to have more Ah capacity.

________
James

Definately, I was thinking in strictly physically bigger (there's a few posts regarding stuffing a small batt down below the original location). We're on the same page, I'm just reading right to left.

 

[syclomatic]

Re: Batterey Relocation Calbes?

Thanks for all of your input, it has helped me alot. I am sticking with the same cable, and my batterey :lol: , but replacing the ends, having new ones put on. Thanks again!