Cheap 4l80e conversion

TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Hey all. I have been wanting to do the 80e conversion for a long time now. I have finally started piecing things together and am just waiting on a few items from RPM. So far I have decided to go ahead and go with the stock ECM route for a controller. My reasoning for the stock ECM route was not a financial decision. My time is worth money so $900 for a good controller wouldn't have been the end of the world. My thing is this, lets say I got a TCi unit and it failed while I was far from home. I like knowing that I can fix things when ever where ever. I don't like the idea of hard wiring something in to my vehicle that if it fails I have to cut it out, ship it off and wait who knows how long before I see it again. I also thought long and hard about a rebuild. For now, I am passing. I am not worried about it blowing up because that just gives me the excuse to build it up. From what I have read, the 80e seems to be VERY strong in stock form. I don't see a need for major parts in it when I eventually do do a build. Now granted I am doing this thread as I install so I may goof here and there so bare with me.

Here is what I have in this financially so far:
1995 80e $100-Junkyard
1995 harness/ECM $70-Junkyard
Transgo Stage II Shift Kit $150-PATC
Converter (3600stall) $750-TCS
Shifter cable/hardware $160-RPM
Adapter Plate $200-RPM
T-case Input shaft $650-Fivetodrive
Xmember $25-Easily home made
Elec connectors $20
Bolts/nuts/washers $15
GP1 package for ECM $55
Trans rebuild kit(stock) $350
Fluids $50
Drive shafts shortened/length $200


TOTAL $2,795.00
I am sure this list will be added to soon but, for now, this is what I have in it. Now it's time to go to work.

I am using the plans that MATT made for the harness. So far just in reading, I am confused on a few things but am hoping will clear up when I start going through it. As of now, I have no idea where I am going to put the ECM. I am hoping to find a semi convenient place. I'll post back soon.
 
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Injected1

Injected1

Member
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

I can't wait to see it mike. Will you please do a complete thread of the install. I am sure this will be coming soon for me too.
 
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

Made a little progress on this tonight. Here are the electrical connectors I am using. These things are bad ass for anyone who hasn't used them
img20110409225826.th.jpg





Here is a pic of the harness laid out on my stands



Here it is with the looming and electrical tape stripped off and I also went through and removed the wires that will not be used



Not sure how to get this off in one piece so it looks like I will have to cut it off.


That is all for now. I'll likely get more done tomorrow night. I am hoping to make a decision on a location for the ECM tomorrow.
 
P

Poconojoe

Donating Member
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

The feed through in the bottom picture, once you remove most of the sealant, there should be 2 bolts clamping it together, once you then remove them, you shoulf be able to split it open and pull the wires through it.
 
M

MikeRenz

not stock
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

careful with those butt connectors, they like to not be fully crimped and become loose. i'd rather see you solder and heat shrink all of those connections - much safer given all the vibrations and movement the wires will see.
 
Beavis

Beavis

Still plays with trucks
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

I agree with the solder idea, I do it to all my connections. Also, you might be able to fit it under the passenger seat, I stuffed my tci controller there. Ran the lines under the center counsel, and cut a hole next to the shift cable to get the harness to the trans.worked well i think.
 
BMFB

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

I'm interested in how this turns out, I'm going to need to do a trans soon, prolly should start thinking about it. I'm unsure of what route I'm going, but the 4l80 would be optimal, if it can be done at a decent cost. Now with using an ecm, I understand that its basically being used as a stand alone controler, but can you tune your shift points with it like you would with a TCI controler, but instead of with a convinient prompt, using a simular program as what you use to tune with code59?
 
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

From what I have gathered you can change shift points.

I haven't posted because I haven't really done anything. I have been waiting for my 80e from RPM to show up so in the meantime I have been trying to work in the interior.
 
Quickstop [UK]

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

Thought it was from the junkyard? Are you having them rebuild it for you? How much is that costing/what's in it?

Have you shortened your drive shaft and replaced your prop shaft? 3.25 off the drive shaft and a new Gilbert or D&R prop shaft is necessary as well.

Good luck with it!
 
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

Quickstop [UK] said:
Thought it was from the junkyard? Are you having them rebuild it for you? How much is that costing/what's in it?

Have you shortened your drive shaft and replaced your prop shaft? 3.25 off the drive shaft and a new Gilbert or D&R prop shaft is necessary as well.

Good luck with it!
Click to expand...

:oops: I meant to say my 80e stuff. I know about the shafts already and that will come dead last unfortunately. Thanks for the measurement though, I have been searching for that and couldn't find it. I already have an upgraded prop shaft so I am hoping like hell they can just modify it and not have to build a whole new one.
 
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

Made some more progress this afternoon. I went ahead and finished cleaning up the harnesses. I laid the entire thing out on my racks so I could see what is what. I then took every wire that I popped out of the connectors and removed the entire wire from the harness. One thing to expect are things like bundles that are meant top travel through the harness to several different connectors or sensors. For instance, gray 5v reference, black/tan and black sensor ground, orange 12v, pink and black ign. Stuff like that.

Anyhow, I took all the crap out and was left with the main bundle, I decided to keep everything for now just in case I screw something up


Here I labeled everything as it came apart with yellow tape and wrote its destination on it from MATTW's write up. I separated the wires that go to the trans with a dash of blue tape:lol:




After that, I decided to make up my mind on a place for the ECM. I am going with under the passenger seat. What is funny is that I put it under the seat and when I saw it stick out a few inches when the seat is moved fully forward, I look over on the floor and see the rear wiper motor cover. It will make a perfect fit over the end of the ECM that sticks out. Just have to find another one:lol:



I decided to go ahead and remove the center console to route the harness down to the trans. I drill a 3/4" ish hole and used a 3/4"x1/2" grommet next to the shifter cable hole.


So everything seemed like it was going pretty well right up until I saw the harness for the NSBUS. I noticed there were no instructions on what to do with this


For right now, I am banking on it not being used. I am hoping this all would go up to the shifter area for indication and operation. More to come later, got an email today saying my 80e stuff from RPM will be here Thursday:tup:
 
P

Poconojoe

Donating Member
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

If want want the pin out for that switch let me know, but you shouldn'y need it, since you're still using your stock switch for the nuetral safety and reverse lights and the older ECM don't need to know what gear the shifter is in, since they don't send any signals to dash up the data buss, to the shift indicator. You also shouldn't need the front speed sender on the tranny, IIRC
 
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

Poconojoe said:
If want want the pin out for that switch let me know, but you shouldn'y need it, since you're still using your stock switch for the nuetral safety and reverse lights and the older ECM don't need to know what gear the shifter is in, since they don't send any signals to dash up the data buss, to the shift indicator. You also shouldn't need the front speed sender on the tranny, IIRC
Click to expand...

Yeah I'd love to see the pin out just to be safe.
 
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

Poconojoe said:
You have an email
Click to expand...

Got it, thanks man. I guess this leaves me with one question. Can we use the stock ECM to control the TCC? That would be nice but it seems the brown wire controls it in the 80e and it isn't a separate deal like in the 700. But then thinking out loud, the TCC wire was brown in the 700 from what I remember, I just don't remember what the other wires were for.
 
P

Poconojoe

Donating Member
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

IIRC The 700 needs the pressure switch in the tranny to tell it when to lockup, you'd need to get that signal from somewhere to use the stock ECM to control it
 
TYTILIDIE

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Cheap 4l80e conversion

OK so, thanks to Mattw, Poconoejoe and much thanks to Jeff (twintrubov8ty), I got this all figured out. If you read Matt's instructions, they are correct, never thought they weren't but I was confused about a few things. I didn't realize you toss the DRAC and use the one you get from your donor vehicle. Then, you actually pull a wire with terminal from the donor harness and install is in to the stock one as it is blank on the stock set up. So this was my greatest confusion. I also confirmed that you do not need the NSBUS that is on the side of the transmission. Anyway, on to my progress.

I went ahead and separated all of the wiring. I tried to keep the harness connectors separate from each other in case I ever need to work on them. So I have one for the trans going to the hole in the floor and separated the two engine harnesses. Here is the measurement for the harnesses. My advice would be to lay these out, disconnect all of the wiring you wont be using, remove them all, then separate transmission from SYTY ECM / misc wiring.

Transmission pigtail 24"
PCM (donor computer) to SYTY 749 ECM 100"
PCM (donor computer) to transmission pigtail 40"

Some of the wires will be too short, I just grabbed some wire from the harness and soldered it to extend it. Wires like the IGN source(pink ), BATT(constant) , brake switch, aldl, check engine light, I would leave those as long as you possibly can so you don't have to make several connections to run it closer to the fuse box or what ever area you're going for.




Next I went through the wiring spreadsheet Matt made up and went through the ECM wiring. I decided to solder this area. After "T"ing in to the ECM harness wires, I laid them all to one side. I had to lengthen the wires due to cutting them in half since I like my ECM in the glove box. I would not call this a necessity, simply my preference.


Here I made my bracket for the PCM (from donor vehicle) so that I can bolt it to the floor.



I just used self tapping screws which I really didn't want to do but I wanted to keep it simple and not go making anything that requires hours of fabbing. I made this in like 5 minutes. Then I took the rear wiper motor cover and trimmed it to fit over the PCM on the floor





Here is what it will all look like


Now, for some details. On the VSS/DRAC stuff, from what I have gathered through searches and input from guys on here, you use the sensor over the linkage (TISS). Apparently (unless someone tells me I am wrong), the actual TOSS sensor (towards the rear of the trans) doesn't get used and the Speed sensor on the TCASE becomes TOSS. That is my take from what I have seen. I can't help but wonder if the you are supposed to wire up the actual TOSS sensor instead though and not use the speed sensor in the Tcase. I'll have to confirm this info.

For the DRAC, I found that my unit actually had two wires that were not in Matt's diagram. They were C10 and C14, I simply removed them. C13, does not exist in the factory plug, the port is there but no wire. I used a paper clip to get the purple wire out of the donor harness and then plugged it in to the SYTY DRAC harness. Then simply matched it up to the wire coming from the PCM harness.

For right now I am using the posi lock connectors for the trans stuff since they will be inside and taped up. The ultimate plan is to get it all running right then go in there and put it all to connectors. As in real connectors so that the harness can be removed at will.

So for now that is it, hope this is helpful info to anyone doing the stock PCM route.
 
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