Datamaster questions.

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Datamaster questions.

50# should be fine for with a larger turbo and stock heads/cam. You would have to run a lot of boost to produce much more than 500hp.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

Any ideas why my timing drops when I hit the gas? I'm sure it something to do with it going lean.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I took it out for a drive and put some gas in it. Here is the drive I did: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kb1xza68ahx55vn/test #6.uni

It sounds like I have a huge charge pipe leak but I checked every single connection and they are solid. I used carb cleaner and couldnt find anything. Tightened down on the BOV and that didnt change anything. It feels very under powered, no where near what it was before.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

And why does DM keep beeping like it does in the log? Im assuming it has to do with the CEL that I havent cleared yet, but the light isnt on anymore.
 

randy merritt

Donating Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

And why does DM keep beeping like it does in the log? Im assuming it has to do with the CEL that I havent cleared yet, but the light isnt on anymore.

It is beeping because of the error codes. Your log had many error codes. You can turn off the chime for error codes in datamaster.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I did notice my voltage is all over the place. I just checked the voltage at the battery and distributor and I have 14.5 volts. I read about the rewiring the power wire to the ECU but I can't find how to do it.
 
Last edited:

fivetodrive

CRISPY
Re: Datamaster questions.

Not sure if this was the tread about rewiring the ECM for better voltage... but here is what I found...

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35874&pp=15&page=2

at high IDC the voltage will drop significantly and make a jagged wave on a graph. (usually only at WOT) the AFR will somewhat follow this jagged wave. in extrem cases you will get a little vibration from the engine, as the ECU starts to fail to work correctly under load. you might also see the ECU completely drop the ALDL connection. the FIX for this issue is to run a powerwire from the power terminal on the firewall to a relay. then use the relay to power the (A6 pink/black) connection at the ECU. use the old wire to trigger the relay. this will give you a MUCH more stable voltage graph, and a much better running truck. we are working on an instruction sheet that we will be including with all our 75lb chips.

e

i did the voltage upgrade last night same one turbo 6 did that he told me about it.It took me 10 min ,and the injector drivers are not on the ecm b fuse they are on the ecm 1 fuse.Here is how u wire the relay ,terminal 85 runs to ground terminal 87 gets fused constant 12volts from batterey terminal 30 goes to the ecm side of the cut pinkblack wire and terminal 86 goes to the car side of the ecm cut pink black wire.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

I found the second quote but his lack of punctuation makes it difficult to understand. Which relay is he talking about and what gauge wire am I supposed to use? I was trying to find something with pictures, I need pictures when it comes to electrical stuff!
 

fivetodrive

CRISPY
Re: Datamaster questions.

I agree with Dave. Try the meter first. I will tonight if I get time.

I am having voltage issues because of a wiring install, ground changes, and a strange ignition drop out issue that appears when I brakestall it, ect... So that's why I was looking for the ECM Mod in case I needed it. I am also working on getting new grounds installed but my voltage drops below 12 at idle and I lose datamaster connectivity.

It might be a battery problem for me. I bought a new battery this weekend to help with my battery relocation project!

Plus I have 75lb injectors on the shelf :)
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

Pin A6 is a pink/blk wire. Don't stuff a hot wire into the wrong hole, or let a stray strand short to an adjacent pin.

Another test would be to put your VOM on the A6 terminal, go for a drive, and compare what you see on the meter to what DM sees. I suspect the voltage at the input to the ECM is a lot more stable than DM reports it as.

I've never spent any time with this. But I suspect the "voltage drop" that DM reports is an anomaly with the way the data stream is collected within the ECM. Now, if the supply voltage to the injectors (same pink/blk wire circuit) varies, then this affects injector delivery. Tunes have a voltage correction table that increases IPW when voltage drops.

I just went out there and the volt meter reflects what DM is showing. I didnt take it for a drive, but I revved the motor, held different RPMs, still reflect each other. I did the same thing on the alternator and I get 14.57-14.58 volts at idle, and when I rev it, it drops to 14.3 volts.

I dont mind doing things that help, but solve the problem. Im pretty sure getting higher voltage to the ECU will help things run a bit smoother.

So if it is my chip, can I even get another one? Ill have to get it flashed again though.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

My MAP sensor just came in, Ill put that in here later today. It may not solve my problem, but I broke the nipple on mine awhile ago and glued it back on, so Ill use that one as a back up.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Datamaster questions.

Took the Ty to the store and I noticed two things. One was I kinda got on it when the engine was only about 100 degrees, only hit maybe 10psi. Thing is, it ran so much better than it does she the engine is up to temp. Second thing I noticed is my tach was jumping around like crazy when the rpms got up around 4000 plus. Sad part is that I have a brand new complete distributor in there. I haven't done the power wire mod yet.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Datamaster questions.

Tach flutter means that you have an ignition problem. Focus on fixing that issue first.
 

The Bronze

New member
Re: Datamaster questions.

When you did your voltage testing, did you check the voltage during cranking. Your cranking voltage is the issue I saw, not your running voltage. I would compare the voltage during cranking at the battery and the ECM. After that, my observation was that you never had BLock Learn add or subtract fuel. The "long term" fuel correction should be being stored and retrieved when the vehicle is operating under those conditions. I am wondering is it "disabled" (I see DM indicates it is enabled)or (unknown based on your short Adam logs) is the ECM resetting upon each startup?

Not the cause of your flutter, but proper power supply during cranking is pretty important. Most vehicle PCMs can tolerate 9.5V during crank, but cars like Mitsubishis cannot due to capacitor sizing).

Log your RPM when the flutter is taking place. Large flutter should be seen on the data log. Also keep a steady rpm while this flutter is occurring and indicate it on the data log. Maybe by cycling the Ac request? I am not sure if that would indicate immediately , but would leave a nice marker, say, after the issue just occurred.

I really need my SY done to test all these tricks that work on other cars.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Datamaster questions.

I don't even know where to begin since all ignition parts are new.

Could any of your wires be touching the Down Pipe? Wrongs plugs or too much of a gap? I worked on a truck with a bad 2 wire connector between the coil and distributor. (mouse chewed wire)
 
Top