SacDoug
Member
I am writing this post so that others can learn from my 3 hour Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) replacement and do it much faster.
Some basic tools needed:
5/8" open end wrench or flared wrench
Allen head socket set
Anti-Seize
Penetrating Oil (WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc.)
Recommended Items:
5/8" Crows Foot attachment (16mm if you only have metric) **highly recommended**
4" 3/8" socket extension
Air ratchet
Small channel lock pliers
Process:
1. Disconnect the fuel pump relay on the firewall next to the washer fluid resevoir on the driver's side. Then crank the engine to relieve any pressure in the fuel rail.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Spray pennetrating oil on the fitting on the bottom of the FPR.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top of the FPR.
5. Move any wire bundles, vacuum hoses and spark plug wires out of the way.
The following is the most difficult part. Take your time here:
6. Using the 5/8" crow's foot attachment on the 4" socket extension, remove the bottom hose. Keep in mind that as you look from the top down you will have to turn the fitting clockwise to loosen it.
Alternately you can use the 5/8" open end or flared wrench. Using those are much more difficult due to the limited space and will take longer.
If for any reason your wrench or crow's foot slips and just starts rounding off the fitting then switch to the channel lock pliers. It is better to get a good grip with the channel locks and break it loose then to keep slipping a wrench and rounding the fitting. Once it is broken loose, then switch back to the crow's foot or wrench.
In case you are not familiar with channel lock pliers, they are designed to turn in one direction. Turning it in that direction actually makes them grip harder. See the following diagram and put the channel lock on the fitting accordingly.
7. Remove the remaining two allen head bolts holding the FPR on. This is where the air ratchet comes in handy but is not required. This takes 30 seconds with an air ratchet or about 10 minutes without one. Inspect the old FPR and make sure the O-ring is on it and not still on the truck.
8. Place a small amount of anti-seize on the threads on the bottom of the new FPR and install it using this same process only in reverse. While installing, skip the obvious steps such as using penetrating oil and cranking the engine to relieve fuel pressure.
You can replace the FPR in about 1 hour if you follow these steps.
Some basic tools needed:
5/8" open end wrench or flared wrench
Allen head socket set
Anti-Seize
Penetrating Oil (WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc.)
Recommended Items:
5/8" Crows Foot attachment (16mm if you only have metric) **highly recommended**
4" 3/8" socket extension
Air ratchet
Small channel lock pliers
Process:
1. Disconnect the fuel pump relay on the firewall next to the washer fluid resevoir on the driver's side. Then crank the engine to relieve any pressure in the fuel rail.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Spray pennetrating oil on the fitting on the bottom of the FPR.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top of the FPR.
5. Move any wire bundles, vacuum hoses and spark plug wires out of the way.
The following is the most difficult part. Take your time here:
6. Using the 5/8" crow's foot attachment on the 4" socket extension, remove the bottom hose. Keep in mind that as you look from the top down you will have to turn the fitting clockwise to loosen it.
Alternately you can use the 5/8" open end or flared wrench. Using those are much more difficult due to the limited space and will take longer.
If for any reason your wrench or crow's foot slips and just starts rounding off the fitting then switch to the channel lock pliers. It is better to get a good grip with the channel locks and break it loose then to keep slipping a wrench and rounding the fitting. Once it is broken loose, then switch back to the crow's foot or wrench.
In case you are not familiar with channel lock pliers, they are designed to turn in one direction. Turning it in that direction actually makes them grip harder. See the following diagram and put the channel lock on the fitting accordingly.
7. Remove the remaining two allen head bolts holding the FPR on. This is where the air ratchet comes in handy but is not required. This takes 30 seconds with an air ratchet or about 10 minutes without one. Inspect the old FPR and make sure the O-ring is on it and not still on the truck.
8. Place a small amount of anti-seize on the threads on the bottom of the new FPR and install it using this same process only in reverse. While installing, skip the obvious steps such as using penetrating oil and cranking the engine to relieve fuel pressure.
You can replace the FPR in about 1 hour if you follow these steps.
