engine rebuild
- Thread starter syty9933
- Start date
The Devils Own Chariot
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
Pump gas its hard to say. Most of the time not over 20psi on the stock turbo. A bigger one is another story. You need alky injection, race gas, or E85 to be safe with boost over 20 psi. Thats my opinion.
Pump gas its hard to say. Most of the time not over 20psi on the stock turbo. A bigger one is another story. You need alky injection, race gas, or E85 to be safe with boost over 20 psi. Thats my opinion.
cloneman315
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
i never go over 15psi on pump,100octains 15 to 20psi and 116 20psi and up
i never go over 15psi on pump,100octains 15 to 20psi and 116 20psi and up
WyoSyclone
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
Brian, does your timing remain consistent at those different boost levels, or are you changing timing too? I'm glad to hear you say 15 on pump because that's as high as I've been able to get mine with no KR.
Brian, does your timing remain consistent at those different boost levels, or are you changing timing too? I'm glad to hear you say 15 on pump because that's as high as I've been able to get mine with no KR.
cloneman315
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
I am also changing the timing,I dont run a knock sensor so not sure about knock retard,that is another reason I run the good gas,Alot of guys dont and they have problems,cheap insurance for a 8 to 10k motor.Again I am sure I could get away with higher boost on pump and leaner a/f I just dont see the need to push it.I know alot of guys use alky,to me its just a band aid to save from buying the good gas,Its simple just dont turn the boost up to high on crap gas!!I know how how much better I feel when I know there is good fuel in there,
I am also changing the timing,I dont run a knock sensor so not sure about knock retard,that is another reason I run the good gas,Alot of guys dont and they have problems,cheap insurance for a 8 to 10k motor.Again I am sure I could get away with higher boost on pump and leaner a/f I just dont see the need to push it.I know alot of guys use alky,to me its just a band aid to save from buying the good gas,Its simple just dont turn the boost up to high on crap gas!!I know how how much better I feel when I know there is good fuel in there,
cloneman315
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
4 bolt mains,eagle rods,je pistons etc and you will be all set.To do all that and using that cam etc,putting l35s in my opinion is a waste,put the good heads on it,its worth it.
4 bolt mains,eagle rods,je pistons etc and you will be all set.To do all that and using that cam etc,putting l35s in my opinion is a waste,put the good heads on it,its worth it.
Re: engine rebuild
thanks and what do u mean put the good heads on and not the l35s?
thanks and what do u mean put the good heads on and not the l35s?
cloneman315
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
vortechs,but if the budget does not allow do the bottom end and you can always change the heads later.
vortechs,but if the budget does not allow do the bottom end and you can always change the heads later.
BoostedSUV
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
I can get just shy of 18psi on 93 octane Sunoco pump gas with zero KR.. It all depends on the build/tune/turbo etc.
L35s and 412 sound good, I would use TRW or SRP pistons.. You could go .030 but if you don't have to don't bother. Its not worth THAT much more power. As far as 2 or 4 bolt main, your block is a 2 bolt main so unless you plan on finding a 4 bolt main 4.3 block I wouldn't bother. You won't be making that much power to require a 4 bolt main even though they're good to have. Go with Eagle rods or equivalent... This way you will have a somewhat "bullet proof" bottom end.
I used Cometic head gaskets, ARP studs, and ARP rod bolts/main studs. That is just more good to have stuff but not necessarily "needed" to have a good running motor.
I can get just shy of 18psi on 93 octane Sunoco pump gas with zero KR.. It all depends on the build/tune/turbo etc.
L35s and 412 sound good, I would use TRW or SRP pistons.. You could go .030 but if you don't have to don't bother. Its not worth THAT much more power. As far as 2 or 4 bolt main, your block is a 2 bolt main so unless you plan on finding a 4 bolt main 4.3 block I wouldn't bother. You won't be making that much power to require a 4 bolt main even though they're good to have. Go with Eagle rods or equivalent... This way you will have a somewhat "bullet proof" bottom end.
I used Cometic head gaskets, ARP studs, and ARP rod bolts/main studs. That is just more good to have stuff but not necessarily "needed" to have a good running motor.
BoostedSUV
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
X2 on the vortecs... If you can afford it now, do it! They're worth it! As cloneman said, you can always do vortecs later but do the bottom end the right way the first time...
X2 on the vortecs... If you can afford it now, do it! They're worth it! As cloneman said, you can always do vortecs later but do the bottom end the right way the first time...
cloneman315
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
oh and after all this be ready to buy and trans lol
oh and after all this be ready to buy and trans lol
BoostedSUV
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
:rotf: isn't that the truth! That's the order I had to do things... Add more power and then you end up rebuilding the trans after you burn it up! Before that though the stock prop shaft will damn near rip through the floor pans! If you haven't changed that yet, add it into the budget!
:rotf: isn't that the truth! That's the order I had to do things... Add more power and then you end up rebuilding the trans after you burn it up! Before that though the stock prop shaft will damn near rip through the floor pans! If you haven't changed that yet, add it into the budget!
cloneman315
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
another 2000 to 2500k
another 2000 to 2500k
![Quickstop [UK]](/data/avatars/m/5/5165.jpg?1570199786){kind=avatar}
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: engine rebuild
Do the block - get the billet main caps from RPM and machine it so you can do 4 bolt mains. Like said above, do that and you'll have a solid bottom end and you can mess around with heads later on.
You've got "whileyou'reatit"-itis
Good luck - start saving for the 4L80E
Do the block - get the billet main caps from RPM and machine it so you can do 4 bolt mains. Like said above, do that and you'll have a solid bottom end and you can mess around with heads later on.
You've got "whileyou'reatit"-itis
Good luck - start saving for the 4L80E
BoostedSUV
Active member
BoostedSUV
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
He's already looking at $3-4k for the rebuild. That's not including the TC and bigger turbo. I would put his plans to be right $5k for what he wants.
He's already looking at $3-4k for the rebuild. That's not including the TC and bigger turbo. I would put his plans to be right $5k for what he wants.
Re: engine rebuild
im doing it today ill let everyone know
cool
yea, luckily i already have a pte61, fmic kit, 3"dp, and external wg, and no ones blown the tranny in 54,000 miles yet.....
im doing it today ill let everyone know
cool
BoostedSUV
Active member
Re: engine rebuild
So you're a little ahead of the came with parts you have. It cost me $3500 to do pretty much the same rebuild as you are planning minus the 4 bolt main caps. I too was on a budget so I added the vortecs/cometic gaskets/ARP studs to the mix a year later. :tup:
So you're a little ahead of the came with parts you have. It cost me $3500 to do pretty much the same rebuild as you are planning minus the 4 bolt main caps. I too was on a budget so I added the vortecs/cometic gaskets/ARP studs to the mix a year later. :tup: