ES POLY MOUNT MELTING

Typhoon #1133

Typhoon #1133

New member
Hi, so has anyone found a way to stop the poly bushings from melting? I want to put new engine mounts on my truck and want to get it done right the first time.

Thanks,

Keith
 
TurboTony

TurboTony

Active member
My drivers side poly mount melted the first season I ran them.

I didn't bother with the heat sheilds the first time though...

When we reassembled it last year I reinstalled the sheilds after I cleaned them up and added some heat reflective tape.

I also had the manifolds ceramic coated. Not sure if that really helped the mounts at all, but it couldn't have hurt.

My FTP is down right now, I'll post some pics later.

Tony[/img]
 
G

GEN3Typhoon

New member
I have a perfect solution for you.

Put stock mounts in it.

Spend 2 bucks on an eye bolt to replace the outer alternator bolt, and 5 bucks on a racheting tie down.. presto.
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
1) That sig pic scares me

I need pics of install of the mounts (tonight preferably) and pics of the heat shields on the stock mounts.
 
Tydriver

Tydriver

TurboLS6 Powa'
T66Typhoon said:
I have a perfect solution for you.

Put stock mounts in it.

Spend 2 bucks on an eye bolt to replace the outer alternator bolt, and 5 bucks on a racheting tie down.. presto.
Click to expand...

Stock mounts suck Nick, have you seen the design of them?? Mine literally came apart in 3 separate pieces (ask J Scott). The ES design is a better deal because the plates interlock each other. The oem mount is nothing more than two steel plates glued together with rubber in the middle. The ES design is far superior in that even if the poly WAS to come completely out they would still hold the mount/engine in place without any torque straps/tie downs etc.

While I am a fan of the TIE-DOWN/Torque strap issue for WORN mount OEM mounts, that part will never be needed once the ES mounts are installed. Overall it looks cleaner and more OEM, the torque strap is nothing more than a band-aide at best. Eventually the stock mounts will succumb to the same issues and fail again. Keith is fighting this issue and is wanting to change the mounts because of we think that when the motor is torquing over and slamming against his torque strap and inducing FALSE KNOCK into the truck (extremely high knock counts from startup and boost runs).

Not an intent to start a flame war, just something to consider if your truck is having false knock issues, Keith has seen knock counts well over 5000 in the recorded knock count field.
 
G

GEN3Typhoon

New member
I agree with you that the stock mount are far inferior to what Jeff has. They look great too...

I just decided to go with the stock ones... I have always run them, they are cheap and I think the tie down is a necessity.

Later
 
Falco

Falco

Donating Member
I can recall Robert in Sweden had problems with the ES mounts, his truck broke them several times. I'm not sure, but he also considered to go back stock... We should ask him. Since Nick's truck should produce similar power to Robert's Sy, leaving the ES mount out IMHO is not necessarily a bad decision...

Later,
 
B

BillC

New member
Tydriver said:
Stock mounts suck Nick, have you seen the design of them?? Mine literally came apart in 3 separate pieces (ask J Scott). The ES design is a better deal because the plates interlock each other. The oem mount is nothing more than two steel plates glued together with rubber in the middle. The ES design is far superior in that even if the poly WAS to come completely out they would still hold the mount/engine in place without any torque straps/tie downs etc.

While I am a fan of the TIE-DOWN/Torque strap issue for WORN mount OEM mounts, that part will never be needed once the ES mounts are installed. Overall it looks cleaner and more OEM, the torque strap is nothing more than a band-aide at best. Eventually the stock mounts will succumb to the same issues and fail again. Keith is fighting this issue and is wanting to change the mounts because of we think that when the motor is torquing over and slamming against his torque strap and inducing FALSE KNOCK into the truck (extremely high knock counts from startup and boost runs).

Not an intent to start a flame war, just something to consider if your truck is having false knock issues, Keith has seen knock counts well over 5000 in the recorded knock count field.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, the ES mounts MELT!! I used heat shields on both mounts, and they still both melted to the point where the internal metal pieces were rubbing on each other. They are also now very soft, such that you can easily move the pieces by hand, relative to each other. I actually think the melted ES mounts may have been the source of my false knock, since it started less than 200 miles after installing them.

I haven't yet decided what mounts I'm going use with the new motor, but I'm definitely NOT using polyurethane. At least, not until they raise the melting temp above 100 degrees F.
 
G

GEN3Typhoon

New member
As far of seeing the design of them .. of course I have.

Also, I think I paid $12 each for the stock ones and like I said 9 bucks for the strap and eye bolt.

The reason I would not go without the strap, even with the poly mounts is that I was at the track, brake torqued it, launched, cut the radiator hose with the alternator pulley.

Luckily one of the guys at the track had some duct tape (imagine that) and I taped it up, added some water and got home ok.

If that happened on the street, you may have to have a tow bill home.
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
I got the ES mounts torqued to the block today and the JS mounts bolted to the frame as well. Motor will be bolted in tommorrow. I fully intend on running a tie down (modified tailgate strap from board member) as well. I have lumpy (myclone) heat shields that look better than stock so hopefully I will have no movement in the motor and the ES mounts will be protected.
 
B

badnewz

Member
Has anyone used a solid mount yet? I had the ES mounts for my truck but all the talk of melting made me pick up some solid mounts. I have speed pro, so I don't need to worry about the false knock.

Mike B
St.Clair Shrs, MI
 
ed hess

ed hess

race or get outta the way
I am still wondering if poly mounts melt with headers since they are further away or have the peeps who had problems only been using oem manifolds.

i added heat reflective material to my oem heat shields when i reinstalled everthing.

Damn i really dont want to have to go back and redo jack on this motor!

ed
 
Sy Guy 0024

Sy Guy 0024

Member
ed hess said:
I am still wondering if poly mounts melt with headers since they are further away or have the peeps who had problems only been using oem manifolds.
ed
Click to expand...

I'd like to know, too. I've got ATR headers and was considering the the poly mounts since they're only $2 more than the price AutoZone gave me for stockers. Anyone out there with headers and poly mounts?

Ryan,
Is myclone selling those shields?

Corbin
 
JSM

JSM

Active member
As I have mentioned since the beginning of this on my webpage, heat needs to be controlled.

I am working on a new design for the ES mounts, but as of yet that is not complete. I too am not happy with the performance of the ES mounts, and even the customer service when I called them expressing my concern.

On my truck I used the stock heat shields, then bought starter heat wrap, cut in half and wrapped everything with that.

I am also suspecting trucks with headers are not AS troublesome with heat.

I have pics, I still need to post of my setup.
 
myclone

myclone

Donating Member
Sy Guy 0024 said:
Ryan,
Is myclone selling those shields?

Corbin
Click to expand...

Well, not really.. I made a few sets for ppl when I found some ~1/16" stainless steel scrap sheets at work. A few probs with mine though....

1. I cant find anymore SS scraps as they hauled all the scrap to the recycler (I still owe warmpancakes a pass side sheild).

2. I made them using the orig sheilds and they require tweaking/modding to fit the poly mounts (if I had some poly mounts I could make the needed changes).

3. I have no clue if the few SS sheilds Ive made so far are effective or not. I guessed they would be as SS has such a low thermal conductivity compared to mild steel or alum. I'll just have to wait on feed back from the two or three ppl Ive made them for.

3. There was a fellow board member that is possibly going to make them and sell them in quantity but I dunno if that ever got off the ground.

4. Lastly, I make them at work during my spare time. For about the last month or so Ive been up to my ass in alligators (busy) actually doing work so I havent had a lot of time for any "special" projects which means I might be able to make two or three sets this week but then not have time for the next few weeks or months. It all depends on my work load.
 
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