Fuel cooler ?
- Thread starter Ty 1885
- Start date
canadian
sy in progress
Re: Fuel cooler ?
Aeromotive sells a pump controller that minimizes fuel heating and vapor-lock problems by matching the duty cycle of the fuel pump to engine RPM. I don't know if you'd be able to keep the fuel cool enough on a long drive with a cool can sort of device.
Aeromotive sells a pump controller that minimizes fuel heating and vapor-lock problems by matching the duty cycle of the fuel pump to engine RPM. I don't know if you'd be able to keep the fuel cool enough on a long drive with a cool can sort of device.
SY-1193
Active member
Re: Fuel cooler ?
Can't see your (Pics) link not working?
I think you are referring to a Cool Can?
I really think Cool Cans are for a Carb setup not EFI type fuel system.
The pump controller is the way to go on an Aeromotive system as stated by Canadian. It doesn't decrese voltage it changes the Pulse Width to control the pump and slows it down or increases for demand. This keeps it cool. $300. approx price. There is also a wide open throttle or race tap on it you could hook it to a hobs switch or a WOT switch somehow on the throttle linkage or just a simple switch to flip when you race to get full on.
Can't see your (Pics) link not working?
I think you are referring to a Cool Can?
I really think Cool Cans are for a Carb setup not EFI type fuel system.
The pump controller is the way to go on an Aeromotive system as stated by Canadian. It doesn't decrese voltage it changes the Pulse Width to control the pump and slows it down or increases for demand. This keeps it cool. $300. approx price. There is also a wide open throttle or race tap on it you could hook it to a hobs switch or a WOT switch somehow on the throttle linkage or just a simple switch to flip when you race to get full on.
Bad Ass Black Trucks
New member
Re: Fuel cooler ?
You will have pump overheating issues if the feed line is not large enough or if the fuel cavitates through cheaper fittings (Aeromotive recommends their full flow fittings to prevent cavitation). On the output, the size of the line to the regulator is not supposed to matter significantly as the pump can handle the pressure on the output, although Aeromotive does recommend a large return line after the regulator.
The older pumps were external, not sure if they can be submerged or not. I do know that guys will send their pumps back to get upgraded internals. If internal is an option for you you may be able to send it back and get it updated/upgraded.
I don't think there is a significant amount of heating due to pressurization (PV=nRT) of the fuel. The majority of the heating comes from the fact that the unused fuel returning to the tank has been heated in the engine bay. This is particularly true during part throttle. Plastic and rubber fuel lines don't have much thermal conductivity so once the fuel gets heated it starts a cycle where it gets warmer and warmer with each pass through the engine bay.
The controller is supposed to be the way to go, but it is not cheap. I decided to get one for the Aeromotive Eliminator I have on the Sonoma. I got it because I noticed that after a 20 minute drive the fuel cell was pretty stinkin warm to the touch. I haven't installed it yet... and probably won't get to it for a while... but if that doesn't do it I will get an in-line fuel line cooler. Do they make one in -10 AN? :tup:
Oh, one other thing. Do you have a filter before and after the pump? Originally Aeromotive recommended NOT installing a filter before the pump and somewhere along the line they changed their position and now sell a high flow filter for before the pump too. Not sure if it is really necessary or if they just want more $$. Stuff aint cheap.
You will have pump overheating issues if the feed line is not large enough or if the fuel cavitates through cheaper fittings (Aeromotive recommends their full flow fittings to prevent cavitation). On the output, the size of the line to the regulator is not supposed to matter significantly as the pump can handle the pressure on the output, although Aeromotive does recommend a large return line after the regulator.
The older pumps were external, not sure if they can be submerged or not. I do know that guys will send their pumps back to get upgraded internals. If internal is an option for you you may be able to send it back and get it updated/upgraded.
I don't think there is a significant amount of heating due to pressurization (PV=nRT) of the fuel. The majority of the heating comes from the fact that the unused fuel returning to the tank has been heated in the engine bay. This is particularly true during part throttle. Plastic and rubber fuel lines don't have much thermal conductivity so once the fuel gets heated it starts a cycle where it gets warmer and warmer with each pass through the engine bay.
The controller is supposed to be the way to go, but it is not cheap. I decided to get one for the Aeromotive Eliminator I have on the Sonoma. I got it because I noticed that after a 20 minute drive the fuel cell was pretty stinkin warm to the touch. I haven't installed it yet... and probably won't get to it for a while... but if that doesn't do it I will get an in-line fuel line cooler. Do they make one in -10 AN? :tup:
Oh, one other thing. Do you have a filter before and after the pump? Originally Aeromotive recommended NOT installing a filter before the pump and somewhere along the line they changed their position and now sell a high flow filter for before the pump too. Not sure if it is really necessary or if they just want more $$. Stuff aint cheap.
sytyguy
Moderated User
Re: Fuel cooler ?
If the post-pump temps rise in the same linear fashion as the pre-filter temps, then you're onto something. If the post-pump temps are rising 5% every 2 minutes with no plateauing, while pre-filter temps only rise 2% and plateau after 5 minutes (equalizing to road/under-truck temp), then it's not the fuel temp from engine bay exposure.
If that's the case, then the fuel heating would worsen linearly as the fuel capacity dropped (like trying to boil 1 qt of water vs 5 gal). This would be extremely easy to measure with a $20 electric temp gauge and an inline temp sender block (pic) plumbed in pre-fuel filter. Make a 20 min drive and record temps every 2 minutes. To be thorough, plumb the same sender block in post-pump, allow truck/fuel to cool to ambient again, repeat same 20 min drive, and observe temps.
If the post-pump temps rise in the same linear fashion as the pre-filter temps, then you're onto something. If the post-pump temps are rising 5% every 2 minutes with no plateauing, while pre-filter temps only rise 2% and plateau after 5 minutes (equalizing to road/under-truck temp), then it's not the fuel temp from engine bay exposure.
Ty 1885
Member
ed hess
race or get outta the way
Re: Fuel cooler ?
Looks nobody else has but, we will be doing just this. The ice chest for the water to air Ic is going to have input and output fittings for the fuel line. Not sure but i Think the ice chest and fuel tank were also going to be fabbed so that the ice and fuel tanks were adjacent to one another with something included to avoid condensation between the 2. Just for grins, harry tells me the ic we will be using will allow me to finish a run with the intake temps below ambient!! harry don't bs so this should get real interesting.
So has anybody done what your asking, No not yet, but... lol
Looks nobody else has but, we will be doing just this. The ice chest for the water to air Ic is going to have input and output fittings for the fuel line. Not sure but i Think the ice chest and fuel tank were also going to be fabbed so that the ice and fuel tanks were adjacent to one another with something included to avoid condensation between the 2. Just for grins, harry tells me the ic we will be using will allow me to finish a run with the intake temps below ambient!! harry don't bs so this should get real interesting.
So has anybody done what your asking, No not yet, but... lol
![Quickstop [UK]](/data/avatars/m/5/5165.jpg?1570199786){kind=avatar}
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: Fuel cooler ?
Surface area may be larger but the volume of fuel will also be larger in proportion to the radius squared, so more fuel will flow and any heating or cooling effect will be reduced compared to smaller lines, hence radiators having a huge surface area with many tiny lines in them.
2πr (Surface area) vs π(r squared) (cross sectional area)
The bigger the line, the less of an effect the heating/cooling will have.
Surface area may be larger but the volume of fuel will also be larger in proportion to the radius squared, so more fuel will flow and any heating or cooling effect will be reduced compared to smaller lines, hence radiators having a huge surface area with many tiny lines in them.
2πr (Surface area) vs π(r squared) (cross sectional area)
The bigger the line, the less of an effect the heating/cooling will have.
ed hess
race or get outta the way
Re: Fuel cooler ?
yes it might but i can tell you that having used something like AN10 lines the fuel in my cell was still HOT after making a pass. So just larger lines wont make as significant a cooling difference as adding something to chill the fuel below ambient.
yes it might but i can tell you that having used something like AN10 lines the fuel in my cell was still HOT after making a pass. So just larger lines wont make as significant a cooling difference as adding something to chill the fuel below ambient.
Ty 1885
Member
Re: Fuel cooler ?
The pump works well. Last year, i drove it to the track (50 miles) ran 6 passes with no rest in between, then drove back, no problems.
Last week i drove it 40 miles, sat for 1 hour then drove it back, when pulling in my driveway, i noticed that the pump was making ALOT of noise (sounded like scooter without a mufler). TY was running fine, fuel psi was good. After sitting for two hours, it was quite again. TY had about 4 gallons of fuel in it when i got home.
The pump works well. Last year, i drove it to the track (50 miles) ran 6 passes with no rest in between, then drove back, no problems.
Last week i drove it 40 miles, sat for 1 hour then drove it back, when pulling in my driveway, i noticed that the pump was making ALOT of noise (sounded like scooter without a mufler). TY was running fine, fuel psi was good. After sitting for two hours, it was quite again. TY had about 4 gallons of fuel in it when i got home.