Re: GT dieseling, code 42
Sorry, I was meaning to say a volt meter. Where should we test the wires with a volt meter and what exactly are we looking for?:
I would start with the white and the tan/black (brown if it is on the GT) wires. Not to be coy, but we are looking to see what voltages are there.
Should we take the postive & negative to opposite sides of the brown and tan wire where it connects? Or at the ECM, if so at which pin?
The process would just measure the difference in voltages between the two points, which in your scenario would be (almost) useless. Keep in mind, that when you are testing with a meter using the "volts" function, you are simply measuring the potential difference between the two probe tips.
Ensure the bypass connector is secure. The test should take place (IMO) at the ECM. The negative lead needs to go to a solid ground. The positive lead will be what you are connecting to the white and tan/blk (brown) wires. You should have alligator clips on the meter. Use the t-pin to get into the ECM connector. Bend the pins so they are going different directions (so you don't touch the two together). Just shoving the probe in there will likely result in intermittent connections.
Check the voltage on both the wires under the 3 states I posted below (KOEO, KOER (crank), KOER). The cranking state will work better if you disable fuel so it won't run, or simply remove and ground the coil wire on the distributor side.
Testing the white wire for ground requires the meter to go the other direction, with the positive lead on the power supply (battery) and probe with the negative lead. A system voltage reading while done this way will indicate a ground (good enough for the electronic circuit anyways) present on the circuit under test.
If it were working correctly, you would see 5V at the bypass (tan/blk) and a steady voltage on the white. The "steady voltage" would actually be a squarewave that is the ECM spark command. It probably averages around 1.5V at idle. If you were curious, you could use the "duty-cycle" mode on your meter to see the duty-cycle. That is how you would verify it isn't a steady 1.5V signal on the cheap.
There is more to it, and variations of what needs to be done and where. Start there.
Report back.