xcluzivetyphoon
Member
I dont get how that would do it though.. When the rotor is lined up with number 1 on the cap
thanks will do that right now.. thats a good ideaYou can try this to check for misfires - get it running and pull off ingn. wires one by one (one at a time). If there's no difference with some of these, then the cyl has bad plug, or injector, or else.
No guesses here. It's EGR solenoid. Color of the wires, and it's a 4 position connector, with only three wires in it. Only connector on the engine like that is the EGR solenoid. Which normally mounts on the bracket with the MAP sensor. Probably been removed along with the EGR valve.
I dont get how that would do it though.. When the rotor is lined up with number 1 on the cap
Is the engine at TDC with the mark on the balancer also at TDC when you put the distributor in? You've probably checked this.
There are two marks on the balancer. As you look at it from the front, with the correct one at the 12 o'clocl posn, there is another one at 2 o clock. I painted the correct one with white out to distinguish between the two easily.
Have you done a compression check on all the cylinders? Mine wouldn't start and I had messed up my rocker adjustment. Rechecked them and it fired up great.
*Rotate the engine so the upper mark lines up with the 0 on the timing tab. Remove the center bolt in the crank. If the crank moved, use the alt pulley, to rotate the engine back to where the marks line up.
*Observe where the key-way in the crank/balancer is. It should be directly in line with the center line of the LH cyl bank. In other words, the key in the crank is directly in line with the #1 rod throw. When #1 is at TDC, the key-way is right in the 'center' of the cyl bore. Making this observation by eye-ball is close enough to determine whether the ring has shifted.