horrible sound
- Thread starter tyfoo
- Start date
Divergent Lightning
woah
ummm.... Wastegate overboost is code number 31. If it is that, and you heard a horrible noise, you might have broken something in the engine internals. Where did the sound come from? Does the truck still run?
SYO237
SyTy Registry
knock = pre detonation of piston
i always considered it to sound like marbles bouncing around the cylinder chamber like a lotto machine
me thinks you need to change your oil with a screen checking for metal debris and start yanking out your plugs and start reading what they say. Your having an overboost problem. Serious knock tends to lead to bent rods which leads to oil pans that resemble swiss cheese.
Have you fawked with the wastegate lately or taken off your cat? Please say your using at least 91 octane... 93 prefered.... if not, best not mention it or else you deserve the public scolding you will get.
You have a stock truck? Whats your ignition consist of in the way of plugs, cap/rotor and wires? Fuel system...stock pump, afpr?
Give us more info, we can give you more answers.
i always considered it to sound like marbles bouncing around the cylinder chamber like a lotto machine
me thinks you need to change your oil with a screen checking for metal debris and start yanking out your plugs and start reading what they say. Your having an overboost problem. Serious knock tends to lead to bent rods which leads to oil pans that resemble swiss cheese.
Have you fawked with the wastegate lately or taken off your cat? Please say your using at least 91 octane... 93 prefered.... if not, best not mention it or else you deserve the public scolding you will get.
You have a stock truck? Whats your ignition consist of in the way of plugs, cap/rotor and wires? Fuel system...stock pump, afpr?
Give us more info, we can give you more answers.
truck still runs good
except for that rough idile issue
yes i use 93 octane
truck is stock except for atr exhust and just took off the original tires
changed oil last week and didn't notice anything
oil sample going out to blackstone this week
did a bike tube test and can't find a leak?
really like to get with someone in the upstate ny area to do a datamaster and help me tune this thing.
my wife is starting to get pissed off because it's her truck and I can't get it perfect
except for that rough idile issue
yes i use 93 octane
truck is stock except for atr exhust and just took off the original tires
changed oil last week and didn't notice anything
oil sample going out to blackstone this week
did a bike tube test and can't find a leak?
really like to get with someone in the upstate ny area to do a datamaster and help me tune this thing.
my wife is starting to get pissed off because it's her truck and I can't get it perfect
TYRODD
My ass. Look at it.
He is having other problems, just read his "Timing?" thread, I didnt think he was driving it. I have a feeling this new problem may be related to the other. Yall should read it, Ive been giving him some help, maybe someone else may have some more ideas for him. I have a feeling he will need to do some serious searching tonight and get an idea of what can or will or has happened if he doesnt fix it.
SYO237
SyTy Registry
so, what are you using for ignition - plugs, wires, cap/rotor?
the bike tube test just finds leaks in your intercooler, not a real diagnostic tool on why your knocking.
That a full ATR with cat or is the cat removed?
Rough idle could be linked to poor ignition.
get used to your wife being pissed. Mines been pissed at me for the past 5 years since ive known her
you get used to it and learn how to work around it
the bike tube test just finds leaks in your intercooler, not a real diagnostic tool on why your knocking.
That a full ATR with cat or is the cat removed?
Rough idle could be linked to poor ignition.
get used to your wife being pissed. Mines been pissed at me for the past 5 years since ive known her
you get used to it and learn how to work around it
TYRODD
My ass. Look at it.
It prolly bogged down BC of the overboost, the engine shuts down power until boost returns to an "OK" level.
Could have a lot to do with you idle. But I wouldnt try to "fix" the problem by trying to do it again. Check your vac. lines at the boost selenoid again, in fact check All of your lines again, could be something simple,......or not :-? .
Could have a lot to do with you idle. But I wouldnt try to "fix" the problem by trying to do it again. Check your vac. lines at the boost selenoid again, in fact check All of your lines again, could be something simple,......or not :-? .
SYO237
SyTy Registry
ug, head hurts after that.
Rodney has gotten alot of the major points in his posts, so without doing diacom or datamaster, its going to be hard to fully diagnose your prob.
to recap:
idle should be around 750rpm
Even though you checked vac lines, replace them. They may look good to you, but you may just miss that pinhole leak on one of the boots. The stock vac lines suck. Replace them with some silicon lines and hold them on with zip ties.
I would look into purchasing a walbro fuel pump and afpr. With the vac line pulled off the stock FP, you should read around 42psi at the rail. The stock pumps are marginal and are one of the biggest causes of knock due to the stock pump not being able to supply enough psi to keep the injectors at the correct duty cycle.
Get some GM top engine cleaner as Rodney suggested. Its about $12 for the aerosol can. I typcially take off my IC and spray it directly into the TB. Some like to get the can and suck it through a vac line. Your choice. Follow the directions on the can. Be ready to change your oil and spark plugs directly after doing this.... the cleaner takes off all the carbon buildup that is caked throughout the system. Its gotta go somewhere and that would be in your oil. The plugs are for safety due to carbon buildup as the cleaner goes though the motor. You can easily foul them out.
If you have taken off your upper intake and TB, make sure you had no leaks on the gaskets and they were still good if you didnt replace them. The intake gaskets are pricey, BTW.
I believe you can take our MAP sensor to autozone and get it tested for free. Up to you.... I used to work there long ago... I knew the tools and machinery....make sure you get someone who knows them as well.
Gap your UR5s plugs at around .032
If your not using a Conrad Cap/Rotor, get one. Conrad uses brass, which conducts better.
You mainly need datamaster on the truck. Looking at the 02 is pointless. You might as well lick it to see if its good. You need to view volts and DC on the injectors. Check your MATs, your TPS to see if you are truely going to 100% WOT.... for every 1 psi boost, you should see 1 psi FP. Of course, check knock degree and at what point it knocks... which gear, what rpm, etc etc.
Also, you might want to some xylene in your gas..or if you have some 100 octane available. This will determine if you are seeing real knock or phantom knock. Real knock will be reduced with the introduction of a higher octane fuel. If you are still seeing consistant knock values, you may want to change your knock sensor (making sure you torque the new one correctly), broken motor mounts or broken trans mounts... as these will make for phantom knock.
Last but not least for my post.... invest into at least a boost and FP gauge. It'll make like that much more easier....
Rodney has gotten alot of the major points in his posts, so without doing diacom or datamaster, its going to be hard to fully diagnose your prob.
to recap:
idle should be around 750rpm
Even though you checked vac lines, replace them. They may look good to you, but you may just miss that pinhole leak on one of the boots. The stock vac lines suck. Replace them with some silicon lines and hold them on with zip ties.
I would look into purchasing a walbro fuel pump and afpr. With the vac line pulled off the stock FP, you should read around 42psi at the rail. The stock pumps are marginal and are one of the biggest causes of knock due to the stock pump not being able to supply enough psi to keep the injectors at the correct duty cycle.
Get some GM top engine cleaner as Rodney suggested. Its about $12 for the aerosol can. I typcially take off my IC and spray it directly into the TB. Some like to get the can and suck it through a vac line. Your choice. Follow the directions on the can. Be ready to change your oil and spark plugs directly after doing this.... the cleaner takes off all the carbon buildup that is caked throughout the system. Its gotta go somewhere and that would be in your oil. The plugs are for safety due to carbon buildup as the cleaner goes though the motor. You can easily foul them out.
If you have taken off your upper intake and TB, make sure you had no leaks on the gaskets and they were still good if you didnt replace them. The intake gaskets are pricey, BTW.
I believe you can take our MAP sensor to autozone and get it tested for free. Up to you.... I used to work there long ago... I knew the tools and machinery....make sure you get someone who knows them as well.
Gap your UR5s plugs at around .032
If your not using a Conrad Cap/Rotor, get one. Conrad uses brass, which conducts better.
You mainly need datamaster on the truck. Looking at the 02 is pointless. You might as well lick it to see if its good. You need to view volts and DC on the injectors. Check your MATs, your TPS to see if you are truely going to 100% WOT.... for every 1 psi boost, you should see 1 psi FP. Of course, check knock degree and at what point it knocks... which gear, what rpm, etc etc.
Also, you might want to some xylene in your gas..or if you have some 100 octane available. This will determine if you are seeing real knock or phantom knock. Real knock will be reduced with the introduction of a higher octane fuel. If you are still seeing consistant knock values, you may want to change your knock sensor (making sure you torque the new one correctly), broken motor mounts or broken trans mounts... as these will make for phantom knock.
Last but not least for my post.... invest into at least a boost and FP gauge. It'll make like that much more easier....
SYO237
SyTy Registry
Been reading this topic:
http://www.syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=36402
If you want to learn alot about injectors and duty cycle and they way it all works, start reading and retain to memory.... this is the stuff you want to know.
http://www.syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=36402
If you want to learn alot about injectors and duty cycle and they way it all works, start reading and retain to memory.... this is the stuff you want to know.
SYO237
SyTy Registry
this will help too:
http://sportmachines.com/maintenance_tips.php
first couple of links are very resourceful
http://sportmachines.com/maintenance_tips.php
first couple of links are very resourceful
damn...if this was my truck, i'd at least bypass the solenoid and run this truck on base boost only...i pinged my syclone that way before i tore it down a few months back...it had a fresh rebuild, new stock rods and trw pistons...i found 3 bent rods in the block...truck ran perfect even with the bent rods...youre probably doing damage that you can't even see...base boost might save your motor's butt...at least until you can get a scantool on it...i think its around 10 psi...and what you describe sounds like serious deto...
