horrible sound

T

tyfoo

New member
ok guys
I took the truck out for a long drive today
this is whats going on.
on the hwy. 70mph couple of things i notice is
1- at a steady speed the tubo gage rises and lowers( this is with my foot steady)
2- when i gas it even a little the turbo gage just flies up to max thats when i get that sound
it sounds like the fan hiting the radiator or something going nuts in the exhaust
a very tin like noise and loud

I got a vacum gage
were do i hook it up to when testing and what am i looking for?
 
Divergent Lightning

Divergent Lightning

woah
Are you operating off of the Boost gauge on the dash cluster? If so, stop trying to diagnose this problem immediately by driving it. That gauge is horrible and very inaccurate.


Also, trying to reproduce the sound is the worst idea ever. Your wife will really be mad at you if you blow the engine because you threw a rod....


No hard feelings, just there are smarter ways to go about diagnosing then trying to reproduce a sound that might potentially be a severe knock.

I would hook up base boost on the wastegate and start looking for a quality boost gauge to hook up if you don't have one already.
 
TYRODD

TYRODD

My ass. Look at it.
The vac. guage can be hooked up at almost any vac. port.
You want to make sure its reading at least -15vac.
Checking this prolly wont help your OB problems, might just help if you have a HUGE vac. leak.

Maybe someone can help me here. My underhood guage reads -15.5 at the MAP harness. That seems low to me, would this be caused by my TB shaft leak, or from lack of atmospheric pressure being that I am at 5300ft :eek: (BTW cars run like poo up here).
 
T

tyfoo

New member
hooked a gage at the brake booster
got a 20 psi

also pumped a little air into the the waste gate and when i let go of pressure sounds like the sound i hear
can the gate open and close that fast during over boost?
 
SYO237

SYO237

SyTy Registry
before you do anything else... i dont care what it is... before you even drive it again.

PULL OUT YOUR SPARK PLUGS AND READ THEM.


Get a magnifying glass if you have too....but if you see little tiny black specs on the tip and insulator of the plug...aka "Fly Turds", you have serious detonation.

Keep on driving and making that noise, you will be pulling a rod from the oil pan and telling your local engine builder if he can do anything with the remains.


You got a serious detonation prob. You NEED datamaster. I would start to post out in your local area on the board here for any help by experienced owners with the software to diagnose your prob.



I can already sense a typhoon will be up for sale soon with a blown motor if you keep at it....
 
T

tyfoo

New member
pulled out plug 1-2-6 they seem to be clean with a couple of black spots on them.
should i pull the rest?

also took out throtle body and intake (very wet in there)
the intake bolts weren't tight

and it came up with no prying! none

any ideals on what to do while everything is out?

went over vacum lines only one that was ugly was the one for the cruse

should i put new injectors in or leave alone?
what about the thing that goes in the distributor? that goes bad
 
TYRODD

TYRODD

My ass. Look at it.
As far as the black spots on your plugs go, ouch (KNOCK)! Need to check them ALL. If you have spots on all of them, ouch! Need to R&R them to get a starting place, to figure out which cylinder is the worst/most danger (sounds like more than one to me) Use ONLY AC delco cr42ts plugs (need FULL part # on those C-R-4-2-T-S) or NGK-UR5s, do not use ANY others.

What was the "wetness" in your TB/intake? antifreeze, oil, or what?

Be ABSOLUTELY carefull not to drop anything down your intake.

With everything off, Id THOROUGHLY clean the TB/intake, shoot, if you can, get the intake bead blasted super clean. Your loose intake bolts can cause problems, you need to get a new gasket for that (upper to lower intake) and a new TB gasket as well. The intake/tb bolts need to be torqued to 18ft/lbs.

For your injectors, get them professionally cleaned, flow matched, and thoroughly tested. Would be best to take those (injectors) off while your intake is off. After removing the injectors, you will need to replace ALL the little O-rings that seal them. Be carefull with the fuel rail, its fairly easy to mangle.

Replace the CAP and ROTOR in the dist., get a CONRAD brand from autozone.

As far as your knock problem, have you checked your Intercooling system? Do you know how? If not, do lots of searching. This will affect your amount of knock SEVERLY.

Again, you need to do a lot of searching. I was on this board for THREE months before I posted anything, all I did was search search search, and absorb all the information I could.

HTH
 
Jimmy

Jimmy

Banned
TYRODD said:
As far as the black spots on your plugs go, ouch (KNOCK)! Need to check them ALL. If you have spots on all of them, ouch! Need to R&R them to get a starting place, to figure out which cylinder is the worst/most danger (sounds like more than one to me) Use ONLY AC delco cr42ts plugs (need FULL part # on those C-R-4-2-T-S) or NGK-UR5s, do not use ANY others.
Click to expand...

Not to get off the subject,but many guys have had real good luck with Autolite 23 plugs,and EVERY auto parts place has them in stock.
 
TYRODD

TYRODD

My ass. Look at it.
Yeah, now that you mention it, I have heard those will work. I use the UR5s for the sole reason that they keep your exhaust from "Popping" every 5 seconds like the delco's.
 
T

tyfoo

New member
I put the cap and rotor in a couple weeks back.
plugs are ur-5.
the wetness seems to be gas.
and the cooling system is working new fluid and also checked the ic pump.

I think i was reading that the injectors are not self cleaning.
if i went to gm would the new ones be self cleaning?
 
SYO237

SYO237

SyTy Registry
plugs are not clean if you have black specs... that would be little tiny pieces of your piston that have melted onto the insulator.


let me make this clear... screw your stock vac lines, they *may* look good, but I gaurantee they are not. REPLACE THEM.



your biggest problem here is that all this diagnostic and people posting to help is really getting nowhere and we are going in circles. You need datamaster to really tell you what the truck is doing.... you can do the simple diagnosis, change out parts, but in the long run, you are shooting a loaded gun into a wide open dark field hoping to hit anything.

its kinda hard to go any further with this topic until some sort of diagostic can be done on the truck, be it datamaster or diacom.... you have serious knock issues, and it seems like the most common fixes are not fixing it...so the problem lies deeper than just simply swapping plugs, etc etc.



i promise you, the truck will never run right unless you diagnose the problem correctly with the proper tools.... take it from someone who has been in this scene going on 8 years now, owns 2 trucks, and has seen countless people come and go because of not being able to diagnose a truck and using the proven methods.
 
TYRODD

TYRODD

My ass. Look at it.
Damn man, how did you get that thing so fast?! Ive tried b4 but couldnt download, I need the software disk and cable.

Well, you do have a laptop dont you? Youll need one if you dont.
 
T

tyfoo

New member
got the computer set to go
can't get it working
says to change port on the menu
and theres nothing to change in the menu
got the stuff from akm cables overnight
 
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