Re: how much tick
When you run your valves try this.....
Do it ONE cyl at a time....
When you turn the lock nut up top down to where there is no play in the pushrod up and down... take it only 1/2 turn.. You don't want anymore pre-load than that. 3/4max. For Hyd. roller or flat tappet.
Have someone bump the engine over.. watch the valves...
Intake go's down and 2/3 back up... (Adjust the exhaust rocker) 1/2 turn past 0 lash
Next valve.... Exhaust just starts to tip down... (Adjust the intake rocker) 1/2 turn past 0 lash.
Then continue to the next cyl.
I can't do the old way where you put it on #1 and adjust several then go to #6 and adjust several. Get's confusing.
One cyl at a time makes it simple.
Here's the actual process according to comp cams. I simplified it up top.
When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the #1 cylinder, adjust the #1 intake valve by loosening the adjusting nut slightly while spinning the pushrod until you feel lash in the rocker arm. Tighten the adjusting nut until the slack is taken out of the rocker arm and pushrod. Lightly turn the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the adjusting nut, and you should feel a point where there is a little resistance. This is called zero lash – the point where you have taken all of the excess slack out of the pushrod. Turn the adjusting nut ½ turn past this point, giving you optimal pre-load for the rocker arm, pushrod and lifter. Follow this procedure by carefully adjusting each intake valve according to cylinder firing order.
Next, we’ll adjust the exhaust valves. To do so, you need to turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up. Rotate just past maximum lift, where the intake will begin to close. The lifter is now at the base circle, and the exhaust valve can be adjusted. Note: DO NOT go too far down (over halfway) past the point of maximum lift. If you go too far, you will be in the overlap cycle – where intake valve lash is being taken up as the exhaust valve begins to open.
Rotate the exhaust pushrod with your fingers and begin to tighten the exhaust adjusting nut. When you begin to feel resistance against the pushrod, you are once again at zero lash. Tighten the adjusting nut another ½ turn. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Repeat through the firing order until the lash on every exhaust valve has been set.
Now it’s time to double check, starting with cylinder #1. When the exhaust begins to open, check the intake. New hydraulic lifters shouldn’t be pumped up yet, so you should be able to spin the pushrod with some resistance. Think of the hydraulic lifter as a shock absorber – and you want to be right there in the middle of it. Until you have oil pressure, you’ll be able to push the lifter plunger into the bottom of the lifter. At that point, the lifter becomes solid. It might help to mark each rocker that has been set and then mark again each one that has been checked, giving the ones that are 100% finished a big “X” on the rocker arm body.
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