Idler & Tensioner

[Don W.]

Howdy all,

I’m changing the belt and the idler pulley bearing is still smooth but dry as a bone. Go to remove it and the bolt is just past finger tight! Yikes. The tensioner is not quite so dry but should be changed. At 55k miles (I purchased the truck in Dec.) I’ll bet both are original.

So… OEM or NAPA/aftermarket??

Thanks,

Don

 

[Windedv6]

I replaced mine with NAPA....

SKF Bearing

Part# 6203-2RSJ

Both idler pulley and tensioner use the same bearing.

John

 

[sytyguy]

Just a footnote to John's post....

If you can't find that exact number anywhere, the '203' is the most important part of that number. For instance, the BCA/National part number is 203FF (FF meaning a rubber seal on both sides - not open or metallic). And just in case you still can't find one via those numbers, here are the specs on that bearing:

Bore size - .6693" (17mm)
OD - 1.5748" (40mm)
Width - .4724 (12mm)
Fillet Radius - .024"
Design - Radial bearing with 8 balls @ 17/64" each

HTHs

Michael

 

[Don W.]

Cool, 'preciate the help.

Thanks,

Don

 

[Lynn D. Brown]

Front belt tensioners

Front belt tensioners

Don, John, Michael,

Does anyone know if any these tensioners wear out ? And where to buy new ones ? Probably GM only ?

The tensioners are on top and very prominent when U look into the engine bay. So, I was thinking of getting it chromed. If they aren't too expensive, maybe I should get a new one - since my old one has >100K on it.

 

[sytyguy]

They do go bad in a couple of ways. Either the spring wears out and the tensioner "slacks" up on the belt (belt pops off often or has abnormal wear) or the pulley/bearing goes south, which is characterized by a high pitched squeal or degradation of the pulley (and belt usually).

All major parts stores carry the tensioner (with pulley) or the pulley separately. The tensioner p/n (Gates) is 38108 and the pulley is 38001. The tensioner usually sells (retail) in the $40 range.

HTHs

Michael

 

[Don W.]

My Local GMC dealer quoted me 42.19 on the idler and 63.00 on the tensioner. WOW! I think I’ll get the new idler because mine is not flat/square on its face. I’ll look at a new one but I assume they should be flat/square on the OD. Mine’s plastic are the new ones metal?

Havent bought it yet, maybe I'll go to NAPA after all.

Anybody know if the tensioner bolt is left or right hand??? (haven’t got the bolt out yet.) My tensioner is good except for the bearing so I’d like to change just the bearing.

Thanks,

Don

 

[Don W.]

Anybody know if the tensioner bolt is left or right hand???

Obviously that's the tensioner pully bolt, duh. Not the retainer bolt.

Thanks,

Don

 

[0-60N4]

The tensioner pulley bolt is reverse thread.

 

[Don W.]

The tensioner pulley bolt is reverse thread.

Thanks, I suspected as much.

If left hand thread is "reverse" is right hand "forward?"

Whatever happened to just right or left hand thread?

Don

 

[Lynn D. Brown]

Don,

I think the usual term is clockwise or counterclockwise. Normal threads tighten clockwise, and reverse threads R CC.

 

[Don W.]

Lynn,

First, my question was tongue in cheek. But in my opinion it’s -not- forward or reverse. And it’s not, usually, clockwise or counterclockwise. It’s right hand or left hand. But that’s the way I grew up and was taught. These days, it seems, forward and reverse are becoming more common. Especially reverse for left hand. Oh well…

Regards,

Don

 

[myclone]

Lynn,

First, my question was tongue in cheek. But in my opinion it’s -not- forward or reverse. And it’s not, usually, clockwise or counterclockwise. It’s right hand or left hand. But that’s the way I grew up and was taught. These days, it seems, forward and reverse are becoming more common. Especially reverse for left hand. Oh well…

Regards,

Don

Its still left hand or right hand to me and 99% of the suppliers we use at work so dont sweat it.

 

[SYO237]

i had my tensioner go out in the typhoon not to long ago...


i had been keeping an eye on it, since you could see the spring was worn and was starting to "lean" out and get ready to pop the belt off....


i uh... "borrowed" a tensioner from autozone a few weeks prior when i still worked there and kept it in the truck just in case... (hey, autozone owed my ass seeing how they wouldnt give me a raise :roll: )

luckily, i popped the hood before a long trip and saw the belt just about to creep off the pulley...changed it on the spot.


so far, its been holding up great.... it was a goodyear replacement, sorry cant remember the part number now. the part number was the same for the 93 jimmy/typhoon.


only difference i see is the casing of the spring... seems the OEM had a larger smoother casing with that little arrow to see tension, and the goodyear piece looks smaller without any indicator.


i'll snap some shots on the syclone and typhoon for the differences either later tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Don W.]

Went to GMC dealer today and got the complete idler. My old one was plastic, the new one is steel. Thinking that it was the same as the tensioner pulley I bought 2. Silly me, it's not the same OD.

So I transferred the bearing and put the tensioner back on with the new bearing, new idler and new Gatorback belt.

If anyone wants a steel idler pulley WITHOUT bearing but with the other new parts, I'll send it to ya, gratis. First post or email gets it...

The part # for the complete steel idler (pulley, bearing, bolt, washer, and spacer) is 10129560

Don

 

[gjp]

Re: Idler & Tensioner

thought I would revive this tread because I am doing my pulleys. The idler is plastic and the new one is steel. The outside washer does not work on the new pulley. Or does it go in with the opening facing front?? I have not tried it that way yet? I figured it goes in the same direction as the tensioner pulley but in that case the washer is too large. Help.

Also I was given a belt that is too big.??