Installed the TIAL 40!!!

S

sytyfreak

New member
Hi all,

I recently installed my TIAL wastegate on the sy. I must say it sounds mean :eek: 8) when you punch it it goes like :evilbat: and everyone else goes :eek: :eek: :eek:. I must say that the overboost problem was gone and now I get rock solid boost :D 8) ::thumbsup:: ::brews:: :eek:nfire: .

Oh, I almost forgot :wink: . When I was installing the gate "I THINK" my truck has something different. when I was looking for the vac lines(before I started working) I found that the solenoid vac lines where disconected and the turbo's vac line was connected to a vac. T. I then started following the stock wastegate's vac line and it was headed inside the cab. I looked at the "knob" under the steering wheel which I thought it was "stock" and It looks(Don't want to say that it is indeed) a craftsman air regulator :-? ??? Well I kept the regulator that I bought inside it's box and tried the one I had incab and It works great :D .

I would like to know if I have some kind of custom work in the truck or if that it's normal or why they would use an air regulator for the stock wastegate??? I had always tried to use it to decrease PSI, but it didn't do anything different with the stock gate.
 
Syclone#1992

Syclone#1992

SyTy.net Moderator
I love externals....will never go back to integrals..... :lol: SSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH :lol: :lol:
 
InvisiBill

InvisiBill

Active member
Re: Installed the TIAL 40!!!

sytyfreak said:
When I was installing the gate "I THINK" my truck has something different. when I was looking for the vac lines(before I started working) I found that the solenoid vac lines where disconected and the turbo's vac line was connected to a vac. T. I then started following the stock wastegate's vac line and it was headed inside the cab. I looked at the "knob" under the steering wheel which I thought it was "stock" and It looks(Don't want to say that it is indeed) a craftsman air regulator :-? ??? Well I kept the regulator that I bought inside it's box and tried the one I had incab and It works great :D .

I would like to know if I have some kind of custom work in the truck or if that it's normal or why they would use an air regulator for the stock wastegate??? I had always tried to use it to decrease PSI, but it didn't do anything different with the stock gate.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a BoostValve (see http://www.boostvalve.com). It really is just an air regulator valve. Rather than having the ECM/solenoid control how much pressure the wastegate actuator sees, the regulator does it.

While many people say this type of regulator can provide solid boost, I've heard that it can cause problems on a stock wastegate. With the regulator, it's either open or closed. When you hit 15psi or whatever it's set at, it opens to let the wastegate stop building more boost. However, the stock wastegate is so inadequate, it can't relieve enough exhaust pressure to keep the turbo at that psi, so you get a spike. Also, using a regulator like that, the ECM can't cut boost in response to knock. You need to make sure you're not knocking, or a manual boost controller like that will only hurt your engine more.

FYI, the only way to adjust boost on a stock truck is by messing with the wastegate actuator arm's length. If you have any other equipment to adjust boost levels, it's not stock.
 
Raist103

Raist103

Engine Killer, iPhone Killer, Lawnmower Killer
can you takew a pic of the knob? i want to see how it is installed on your truck. i am also doing something like that in the near future and was thinking on the wheel or some place as such.
 
hamrhead

hamrhead

Donating Member
Years back I installed a boost valve knob(bleeder valve) like yours to the stock turbo setup. Its only purpose was to increase boost over stock. As you open up the valve it bleeds off pressure from the vacuum line, allowing the turbo to make more boost. The more you open the valve, the more boost you build. It worked OK I guess. Now I use it with an external wastegate. Base pressure on my gate is 10psi which I can run pump gas with. I just turn the knob to increase boost when I mix in the 'good gas'.
 
S

sytyfreak

New member
Thanx for the info guys!

As for the regulator it looks exactly like this one: http://www.sears.com/sr/product/sum...vertical=TOOL&com.broadvision.session.new=Yes

It's located right beneath the steering wheel. It looks pretty nice it fooled me for almost a year since I thought it was stock. I'll take some pics ASAP so you guys can see the work. It works really nice, everytime I want to increase or decrease boost I just look under the steering wheel hit a few turns on the reg and I'm done :D
 
S

sytyfreak

New member
SyTyArchives said:
how long till your under the truck pulling the exhaust off? :D
Click to expand...

That's a good question man! I'm begining to think it twice :x I was gonna ask you guys(running no exhaust no cat) if your trucks are daily driven??? Mine's a daily driver and I'm beeing told by some friends that I will be having alot of problems with the law. Have you guys had any trouble with the police? I don't now how the goverment in the states deal's with that, but here in Puerto Rico if the catch you with out exhaust in a urban area they give you a $500 ticket :eek: Please some advice here!

Is the sound of the open exhaust somewhat like the sound of the truck without the crossover tube???

thanx
 
S

smeagol

Active member
sytyfreak said:
SyTyArchives said:
how long till your under the truck pulling the exhaust off? :D
Click to expand...

That's a good question man! I'm begining to think it twice :x I was gonna ask you guys(running no exhaust no cat) if your trucks are daily driven??? Mine's a daily driver and I'm beeing told by some friends that I will be having alot of problems with the law. Have you guys had any trouble with the police? I don't now how the goverment in the states deal's with that, but here in Puerto Rico if the catch you with out exhaust in a urban area they give you a $500 ticket :eek: Please some advice here!

Is the sound of the open exhaust somewhat like the sound of the truck without the crossover tube???

thanx
Click to expand...

An idea I've had for a bit was to get one of the electric cutouts, hooked up to the throttle (TPS) or via a hobbs switch. Basically, you'd have an open exhaust when you hammered it, quiet stockish exhaust the rest of the time.

Have to determine what that would cost you versus a nice new high flowing exhaust - with the dump though, you bypass the cat, but don't have to worry about removing it for track use, reinstalling for smog and whatnot.
 
sytyguy

sytyguy

Moderated User
Judging by my electric cutout, the reaction time is prolly too slow if you wanted it to to be an instant open/close type deal (would do fine if you wanted it to be somewhat progressive). Fully open to fully closed (or vice versa) is around 3-4 seconds. Plenty fast for sitting at the line or at a redlight and manually opening it, but too slow IMO for a 60mph punch. Not sure what the time rate is for some of the others (mine's a McCord), but prolly not much faster. Definitely a neat thought and well worth a try. Somebody figure out the wiring and I'll try it.

FWIW, the McCord is only ~$90. Would be the cheapest alternative for trying something like this, and the quality is very good. No problems from mine so far.

Michael
 
S

smeagol

Active member
Thanks for the tidbit Mike, that is interesting to know.

Maybe just get a really big wastgate after the downpipe :)
 
B

BillC

New member
sytyguy said:
Judging by my electric cutout, the reaction time is prolly too slow if you wanted it to to be an instant open/close type deal (would do fine if you wanted it to be somewhat progressive). Fully open to fully closed (or vice versa) is around 3-4 seconds. Plenty fast for sitting at the line or at a redlight and manually opening it, but too slow IMO for a 60mph punch. Not sure what the time rate is for some of the others (mine's a McCord), but prolly not much faster. Definitely a neat thought and well worth a try. Somebody figure out the wiring and I'll try it.
Click to expand...
The DMH Performance E-Valve (or Borla-Valve, pretty much the same thing), also opens or closes in about 3-4 seconds. However, there is a 10-Ohm resistor soldered into the circuit (little square brick next to the motor). Dave puts that on there to slow down the transition time, for the guys who want to be able to open it half-way (for the Borla exhaust). Dave says that if you remove the resistor, the valve will open or close in less than a second.

For something like BG suggested, with the valve wired to a throttle position switch, you'd probably want to replace the motor with a spring-loaded solenoid. That way, when the throttle hits the switch, it'll activate the solenoid and pull the valve open. When the throttle is closed, the solenoid would deactivate and the spring would push it closed.

Otherwise, you'll need to rig up limit switches on the valve body, because you wouldn't want to keep the motor energized at all times -- it would burn out very quickly.

In either case, you might want to also consider rigging up an override switch, since there are probably times when you might not want the valve to open (such as driving past the police station...).
 
Ian Turgeon

Ian Turgeon

Cascading Inspiration
Ive never had an issue, inadvertedly drove by a couple of cops (off the road, stopped at a bank) at about 75% throttle. One took a look, but didnt bother comeing after me (red neck-exhaust leaky- trucks are all too common here).

In regular traffic I've driven by and next to several patrol cars without a problem.
 
B

BillC

New member
SyTyArchives said:
Ive never had an issue, inadvertedly drove by a couple of cops (off the road, stopped at a bank) at about 75% throttle. One took a look, but didnt bother comeing after me (red neck-exhaust leaky- trucks are all too common here).

In regular traffic I've driven by and next to several patrol cars without a problem.
Click to expand...
Never said you had to do the override, just thought it might be a good idea to have one. I can think of several other occasions when you might not want to have the valve open automatically. For instance, MD is very restrictive about exhaust noise, don't want it to open anywhere near a cop here. Or, if you had your parents/in-laws/girlfriend's parents/boss/etc. in the truck. Or, your kid is asleep in the back and you have to pass some knucklehead. Or....

It's the same idea as putting an override on a Nitrous system -- sometimes you just don't want it to kick in/on.
 
K

kwick6

Donating Member
Re: Installed the TIAL 40!!!

sytyfreak said:
Hi all,

I recently installed my TIAL wastegate on the sy. I must say it sounds mean :eek: 8) when you punch it it goes like :evilbat: and everyone else goes :eek: :eek: :eek:. I must say that the overboost problem was gone and now I get rock solid boost :D 8) ::thumbsup:: ::brews:: :eek:nfire: .

Oh, I almost forgot :wink: . When I was installing the gate "I THINK" my truck has something different. when I was looking for the vac lines(before I started working) I found that the solenoid vac lines where disconected and the turbo's vac line was connected to a vac. T. I then started following the stock wastegate's vac line and it was headed inside the cab. I looked at the "knob" under the steering wheel which I thought it was "stock" and It looks(Don't want to say that it is indeed) a craftsman air regulator :-? ??? Well I kept the regulator that I bought inside it's box and tried the one I had incab and It works great :D .

I would like to know if I have some kind of custom work in the truck or if that it's normal or why they would use an air regulator for the stock wastegate??? I had always tried to use it to decrease PSI, but it didn't do anything different with the stock gate.
Click to expand...

Got a tial 40 sitting right here on the desk. Just waiting till spring. :roll:

I plan on using the ANS for control, see how it goes. If it don't work, I might be willing to buy that extra regulator off ya.

later,
Scott
 
S

sytyfreak

New member
I'm trying to skip the exhaust valve thing, because the previous owner installed a shitty aftermarket exhaust that looks like a little fart can :x :x :evil: :evil: Everytime I see It I want to kick it off the truck. If I'm going to play with the exhaust I would be choosing between saving for an ATR or cutting it off. And right now I think I should cut it since it's way cheaper and I need AFPR, IC pump and PST front bushing kit.

Well, I guess I'm gonna say Fu#ck da police. The only thing that kept pushing me back was just thinking what would happen if they manage to catch an 18yr old punk streetracing with an open exhaust in a SYCLONE :eek:

Scott,

Hey man don't be lazy!!! Get under your truck and get that crossover tube! You won't regret it :wink: just ask any of the guys who have also installed it! IT ROCKS and the sound it's just AWSOME it's somewhat addicting since everytime I see a ricer with the windows down I punch it and let them hear it and they go :eek: and that is the bonus since the boost will be rock solid :D 8)
 
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