typhoon-crazy
New member
i got my egr plate and i dont know what to do with the line that goes to it. and are there any problems with running the egr blockoff plate? i swear i did a search but i didnt come up with anything.
installing egr blockoff plate
- Thread starter typhoon-crazy
- Start date
SY2932
Administrator
The only "problem" with an EGR blockoff plate is WAY cooler intake temperatures due to no exhaust being recirculated into your intake. Not really a problem in my book :wink: . Caution: if you live in a state where you have to have your emissions tested, this mod could make you fail. HTH's
Mike Campbell
Mike Campbell
typhoon-crazy
New member
ya i plan on putting the egr back on when i have to pass smog. i live in ca. :-?
Rick Krupa
New member
smeagol said:
Yup, those $50.00 tips do seem to help!!! :lol:
bdubb
I am teh kingpin!
Rick Krupa said:
acutally i drove it there for him, i was suprised too. it burned cleaner then my truck.
stock motor
160 thermo
stock ic with added coolers and big pump
no egr
stock injectors
new catalytic converter.
i should ad, my exhaust i made from stuff i had laying around, and barley even made it pass the door out the side.
but it worked.
Loeryder
New member
You guys are talking idle test.
Come to StL and run on the AWD dyno sniffer.
Our shit is sponsored by the EPA and I just heard we adopted California Style specifications.
Don't know what that means on a 10 year old truck, but the letter I got said the cost for getting a waiver has went up from $200 in repairs to $450 in DIRECTLY RELATED EMISSIONS repairs.
WTF????
I am transferring my title to my dad out in the country, safety inspections only then.
Come to StL and run on the AWD dyno sniffer.
Our shit is sponsored by the EPA and I just heard we adopted California Style specifications.
Don't know what that means on a 10 year old truck, but the letter I got said the cost for getting a waiver has went up from $200 in repairs to $450 in DIRECTLY RELATED EMISSIONS repairs.
WTF????
I am transferring my title to my dad out in the country, safety inspections only then.
Come on now!! April 1 is next week. Why waste all this time, money, and forum discussion on something that will give you zero performance gain.
This is high school auto shop basics:
Purpose of EGR: Cool the combustion process during 'light throttle' cruise conditions - to allow lean 14.7:1 + A/F mixtures without incurring spark knock - also to reduce NOx emissions.
a. It is ECM controlled OFF at idle and low speeds.
b. It is Vacuum controlled OFF at more than 60% throttle opening when
vacuum goes low (and into boost pressure on turbo engines).
All I can see here is a hot engine (and intake) from the hotter cruise speed combustion temps, shorter exhaust valve life, shorter spark plug life, and an overactive knock sensor with a 'spongy' throttle response as you begin to accelerate (because the timing has been retarded by continuous detonation / preignition). All that and 'zero' 'bag-for-the-bucks' performance gain with the big hassle of restoring the system for emissions testing. What a waste. Send the plate back and save your money for something that would make a real difference.
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BTW - This idea is about as useless as turning the air cleaner lid over on the old Monte Carlo SS's. (If you guys can't see the illogic in that ... ???)
This is high school auto shop basics:
Purpose of EGR: Cool the combustion process during 'light throttle' cruise conditions - to allow lean 14.7:1 + A/F mixtures without incurring spark knock - also to reduce NOx emissions.
a. It is ECM controlled OFF at idle and low speeds.
b. It is Vacuum controlled OFF at more than 60% throttle opening when
vacuum goes low (and into boost pressure on turbo engines).
All I can see here is a hot engine (and intake) from the hotter cruise speed combustion temps, shorter exhaust valve life, shorter spark plug life, and an overactive knock sensor with a 'spongy' throttle response as you begin to accelerate (because the timing has been retarded by continuous detonation / preignition). All that and 'zero' 'bag-for-the-bucks' performance gain with the big hassle of restoring the system for emissions testing. What a waste. Send the plate back and save your money for something that would make a real difference.
--------------------------------------
BTW - This idea is about as useless as turning the air cleaner lid over on the old Monte Carlo SS's. (If you guys can't see the illogic in that ... ???)
InvisiBill
Active member
TyMeUp said:
Well, if you're relying on EGR to prevent knock, you have some other issues to deal with. And with routing exhaust gases up through the intake, you're dumping tons of heat into that too. Higher intake temps cause knock too, and just unplugging the EGR vac line dropped my MATs about 60 degrees. EGR will also load up your intake with a bunch of crap. Ask any of the guys who've taken theirs off...
InvisiBill
Active member
Loeryder
New member
Maybe you need to go back to working on old Monte Carlo SSs then.
Most of the folks removing EGR have chips that have EGR disabled to begin with and its a fact the blocking off the port keeps excessive heat out of the intake tract. Not to mention the carbon buildup in the upper intake...
Makes getting to the FPR much easier too, or is adjusting your FP as bad as boring out floats on an old holley 4bbl???
InvisiBill said:
Well, I'm not the one relying on this, GMC is. That's why General Motors put the EGR valve on this engine in the first place…expressly to control spark knock that occurs only during 'PART THROTTLE' operation with 'CLOSED LOOP' fuel control at 14.7:1 or LEANER A/F ratios. This has NOTHING to do with controlling spark knock at WOT acceleration (the rich 12:1 or so A/F ratio and ESC does that). If you get spark knock at WOT, that’s when you certainly would have some 'other issues' to deal with. If you need a second source for these facts, check out the GM Service Manual for your Syclone or Typhoon (1992 - page 6E3-C7-2; 1993 - page 9B-2). Under RESULTS OF INCORRECT OPERATION… "Too little or no EGR flow allows combustion temperatures to get to high, this could cause: Spark Knock (detonation); Engine overheating; Emissions test failure."
Yes, by itself, high temp MAT would cause knock. But remember, inert gases from EGR are combined with this hot air. It works by displacing fuel and oxygen so that when ignited, combustion occurs at a slower rate and lower temperature (think of a cutting torch with no oxygen). Anyway, as soon as you go to WOT, MAT will drop to ambient air temp IMMEDIATELY. Then you can use the cooler more dense air for power.
The majority of the 'bunch of crap' in the intake comes from piston ring - crankcase blowby through the PCV system not the EGR. Take a look into the intake of engines that are designed to run without an EGR valve (the 4.3L CPI VIN Z engines, for example). You'll see the same buildup. All port fuel injection engines will get this build-up over time because there's no fuel in the intake to wash it away. Here's a tip, get a spray can of GM 'Top Engine Cleaner' and follow the instructions on the label. This will clean the intake, the backs of the valves, and remove carbon from the cylinders.
It's hard for me to believe that there is so much misinformation traded in this forum. The information presented here is not just my personal opinion on the subject. This come from my 18+ years of experience as an auto technician specializing in engine performance diagnostics. My labor rate is normally $70/hr, but you can have the above infomation for free.