Intake tube/Seats

C

corsair231

Active member
Anyone have a decent intake crossover tube they would be willing to let go of that they don't want an arm and two legs for or know of anybody making reproductions. I had a little incident with mine today and I am now in need of a replacement. Cracks on the ends are acceptable as long as the main section is still good to go.

Also, anyone have a bottom seat cover for a Sy (driver's side if it matters) or at least some of the cloth they can turn loose so I can make a fix for mine. A 2" square would be enough to fashion a patch to repair what I need.

TIA
 
Isthatthingstock99

Isthatthingstock99

Member
corsair231 said:
Anyone have a decent intake crossover tube they would be willing to let go of that they don't want an arm and two legs for or know of anybody making reproductions. I had a little incident with mine today and I am now in need of a replacement. Cracks on the ends are acceptable as long as the main section is still good to go.

Also, anyone have a bottom seat cover for a Sy (driver's side if it matters) or at least some of the cloth they can turn loose so I can make a fix for mine. A 2" square would be enough to fashion a patch to repair what I need.

TIA
Click to expand...
Like @gmemony2 Mentioned Ozzie has made new crossover tubes, I cannot remember if he mentioned the material. However, the price he has them going for is $350 without paint. With paint its another $150.
 
C

corsair231

Active member
Isthatthingstock99 said:
Like @gmemony2 Mentioned Ozzie has made new crossover tubes, I cannot remember if he mentioned the material. However, the price he has them going for is $350 without paint. With paint its another $150.
Click to expand...
gmemony2 said:
Ozzie Rojas on Facebook is making reproductions now of the crossover tube.
Click to expand...
Thanks guys. I just found them on e-bay too. He's asking $5 more there, $355, but doesn't say anything about a paint option in his listing. For $150 though, I think I can paint it myself, lol. The problem is that the hood pad tends to rub the tube and will rub the paint. It would have been nice if he could have molded them in color and it would have been a non-issue but beggars can't be choosers. Has anyone used one of these that can vouch for the quality of it? Fit, finish, durability?

Mine is a pretty clean break in the middle and I thought about just wrapping it in fiberglass myself, but I would worry about the tube looking rachet like it had been hacked together and even if I can make it look good, I would worry about the plastic being brittle and turning loose from the fiberglass. I might go this route first though just to try to save a few bucks. I'm cheap like that, plus I really like fixing things myself, lol. I wonder how a 3D printed one would hold up?
 
Rexxenexx

Rexxenexx

Active member
They look good. I’ll wait until he hopefully makes a run with black gel coat and someone reviews it.
 
C

corsair231

Active member
Teahead said:
www.facebook.com

GMC Syclone Typhoon & Sonoma GT Registry (SyTyRegistry) | Fabbed up an aluminum intake pipe for my Syclone | Facebook

Fabbed up an aluminum intake pipe for my Syclone. It flattens over the core support just like the factory pipe does. Hood closes perfectly fine with no contact to hood liner. Looking at having a...
www.facebook.com www.facebook.com

Going to make metal ones.
Click to expand...
Definitely interested. Is this you or anyone on the forum? I think I would like the metal one better than the fiberglass. Would be concerned a little about heat soak but otherwise I think it would flow better than the fiberglass one. The fiberglass one looked kind of rough on the inside and just don't know how that would impact flow. Plus, a little better price point for powder coated metal v/s a plain glass one.
 
Rexxenexx

Rexxenexx

Active member
corsair231 said:
. The fiberglass one looked kind of rough on the inside and just don't know how that would impact flow.
Click to expand...
Do have a pic of the inside? There aren’t any pics on EBay listing. But yeah, it could make a similar noise to a dead fan clutch. Wind tunnel like, or worse, whistle. I’d still buy a black gel coat one and party balloon fiberglass sleeve it if it’s that bad.
 
C

corsair231

Active member
This was on a FB post. Not the best pic. Hard to tell exactly what is going on but it is enough to make me wonder if flow would be impacted.

1695185462640.png
 
G

gmemony2

Active member
There was no real follow up on the aluminum intakes. Not the first post on those that never materialized. I'm assuming they found out the actual cost and realized it was too much. I agree would be nicer though than other materials.
 
Teahead

Teahead

Member
The latest from guy's effort on the metal one:

"initial production unit should be ready Thursday. I’m going to test fit on my both of my trucks to ensure proper fitment, etc.
If we don’t need to make any adjustments, we’ll start producing."
 
C

corsair231

Active member
Teahead said:
The latest from guy's effort on the metal one:

"initial production unit should be ready Thursday. I’m going to test fit on my both of my trucks to ensure proper fitment, etc.
If we don’t need to make any adjustments, we’ll start producing."
Click to expand...
Any word on these? Did they make the cut?
 
Rexxenexx

Rexxenexx

Active member
corsair231 said:
This was on a FB post. Not the best pic. Hard to tell exactly what is going on but it is enough to make me wonder if flow would be impacted.

View attachment 1865994
Click to expand...
My theory on the original design is, the ridges on the bottom created low pressure so the flow could change direction straight down into the orange silicone connector without difficulty.
That interior pic does look a bit rough, but fixable with more clean up. Just, if the ridges aren’t there, you might as well go with a simpler design. Also, I’d want to know if the gel coat on the inside was put after the part was cured.
The way I want to make ‘em was just black gel coat on the outside, raw inside, off a two piece plaster mold. Just too expensive and time consuming for me now to get to.
 
C

corsair231

Active member
Teahead said:
Do you not do Facebook?

If you do, then ping the guy directly there.
Click to expand...
Nope. Don't have Facebook. I can follow posted links to individual posts, but I don't have a presence there. I went back to the link you posted and followed the thread but never saw an update. Since you posted the link here, I assumed this was either you and your product or you were following the guys progress. Sorry, wasn't trying to bug you about it, just seeking an update from the original source in this thread.
 
C

corsair231

Active member
Rexxenexx said:
My theory on the original design is, the ridges on the bottom created low pressure so the flow could change direction straight down into the orange silicone connector without difficulty.
That interior pic does look a bit rough, but fixable with more clean up. Just, if the ridges aren’t there, you might as well go with a simpler design. Also, I’d want to know if the gel coat on the inside was put after the part was cured.
The way I want to make ‘em was just black gel coat on the outside, raw inside, off a two piece plaster mold. Just too expensive and time consuming for me now to get to.
Click to expand...
The ridges are there in the photos of the bottom but don't know if they are there on the inside, or if it is smooth. Would seem odd to reproduce it on the outside but not on the inside.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top