its time to install the DIY-WB O2 sensor!!!!

[E-Rue]

i finally have all the parts i needed, and everything is assembled. before i start tearing into the truck with the tools, i gots a few questions.

1. what pin on the ECM is the right one to use for the mv out put from the DIY-WB (search is givin me error messages)

2. as far as power and grounds go, is there a preference for hook up?

3. if there isnt a wire in the correct pin input to the ECM, should i take the ECM apart to install some sort of quick connect on the side of the ECM so the sensor can be pluged in quickly like the other wiring harnesseses?

4. if i do install a new connector on the side of the ECM for the sensor input........ whats to keep me from using a 3 wire plug and connecting power and ground inside the ECM as well? i could just put the 5a fuse inside, accessible at the MEMCAL opening? will the ECM ignition circuit take an additional 5a load on the backside of the pin inputs?

e

 

[kwick6]

Since we are going to have a similar setup to hook up, thought we should cover everything to make it easy.

There are four cables that need to be hooked up...

O2 sensor cable(all wires go to sensor)
Red--+ supply voltage to sensor
White--current pump to sensor
Black--ground to sensor
Blue--calibration resistor
Brown--calibration resistor

O2 sensor heater(all wires go to sensor)
white--positive heater supply
green--negative heater supply

02 circuit control
red--ECM power (A6 pink/blk...someone please verify that)
black--ground (B9 of the middle connector)
white--voltage output of the sensor (F14)

heater power
red--positive supply (fuse panel) MUST BE PROTECTED BY 5A FUSE!!!
black--negative supply (ground under a bolt/screw)


It seems to me that the only wires that really need to be included in an ecm connector is the F14, and B9. I would think the best thing to do would be to get some new pins and make some short wires to come out of the connector with the pins, then splice onto them.

The ecm connectors are the same for any 3 plug ecm, 87 and newer, from what I've heard. So it would be easy to find at the yard. I'd like to practice on one, taking out a couple wires with pins on them. I would guess you could get a scrap plug and simply push out a couple of the wires from the connectors and push them into the connectors on our truck.

*Or*

If all we need is some new pins to make the wires come off of the ecm connectors, I can get some of those.

What have others done to connect to the F14 and B9. I assume connecting to the ecm power (pink/blk), is done by splicing. I'd rather avoid any need for soldering in my ecm if possible.

 

[E-Rue]

scott, there doesnt apear to be any ground on pin 9 of any of the connectors in the schematic on the service manual. is this an extra ECM ground that is otherwise unused?
GF14 shows up as blank (not used)
BA6 looks like the correct pin for ignition power.

the way dave (myclone) built my module, i believe there is only one power and ground for both circuits (tied together inside the magic black box). i didnt realize everyone else had the power and ground for the heater circuit as a separate connection. hmmmmm...... makes me wonder if i will be able to hook it to the ECM or not :-?

e

 

[kwick6]

scott, there doesnt apear to be any ground on pin 9 of any of the connectors in the schematic on the service manual. is this an extra ECM ground that is otherwise unused?
GF14 shows up as blank (not used)
BA6 looks like the correct pin for ignition power.

the way dave (myclone) built my module, i believe there is only one power and ground for both circuits (tied together inside the magic black box). i didnt realize everyone else had the power and ground for the heater circuit as a separate connection. hmmmmm...... makes me wonder if i will be able to hook it to the ECM or not :-?

e

The F14 pin and B9 pin are what others are using. They are normally not used. What I'm not sure about is when you do use them, if there is anything that needs to be done inside of the ecm. Since all the wiring diagram says about them is "not used", I have no idea what happens if you just hook up to them.....anyone??


ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming/syecmpin.pdf

 

[leroy]

I cut off the wire for the egr and used it in F14. I don't use egr, though. You don't have to do anything inside the ecm. I shared the power and ground, and did not use B9.

Jim

 

[kwick6]

I cut off the wire for the egr and used it in F14. I don't use egr, though. You don't have to do anything inside the ecm. I shared the power and ground, and did not use B9.

Jim

Oh ok. So the wires are easy to pull out and move to different locations, cool.

You shared the heater power with the sensor power? Did you use the ecm power (pink/blk wire A6... C307 connector?) and ground (blk/wht wire A12, C307?)

 

[leroy]

You shared the heater power with the sensor power? Did you use the ecm power (pink/blk wire A6... C307 connector?) and ground (blk/wht wire A12, C307?)

I didn't use any other ecm connectors. It's been awhile, but I think I used an ignition terminal in the fusebox for power. There's a ground under the dash somewhere that I used, IIRC. It's worked fine for more than a year. Keep in mind, the a/f ratio is only a number to aid in tuning. Calibration and power issues may skew the number slightly....you still need to check plugs, monitor for knock etc..

I made a second, portable diy-wb and just put alligator clips on the power and ground. I connect them to the battery when I use it.

Jim

 

[kwick6]

You shared the heater power with the sensor power? Did you use the ecm power (pink/blk wire A6... C307 connector?) and ground (blk/wht wire A12, C307?)

I didn't use any other ecm connectors. It's been awhile, but I think I used an ignition terminal in the fusebox for power. There's a ground under the dash somewhere that I used, IIRC. It's worked fine for more than a year. Keep in mind, the a/f ratio is only a number to aid in tuning. Calibration and power issues may skew the number slightly....you still need to check plugs, monitor for knock etc..

I made a second, portable diy-wb and just put alligator clips on the power and ground. I connect them to the battery when I use it.

Jim

This is the thread mentioning the use of B9 (ecm conn. C307) for ground.
http://www.syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21987

I'll probably just use a scotchlock on the ecm power wire, to get power to the circuit. Then just get power from the fuse panel for the heater circuit.

 

[myclone]

the way dave (myclone) built my module, i believe there is only one power and ground for both circuits (tied together inside the magic black box). i didnt realize everyone else had the power and ground for the heater circuit as a separate connection. hmmmmm...... makes me wonder if i will be able to hook it to the ECM or not :-?

e

e,


I'll hafta dig around in my notes to try and find out for sure but I think I built yours with seperate heater circuit and WB control circuit power wires. I built yours and mine at the same time and mine has never went any further than being tested on the bench (I havent yet made cables or put it in an enclosure).

Once I built yours and mine I "standardized" my build process on the rest Ive done just in case I ever had to work on one at a later date. So, that kinda means yours is a one off deal.

Anyway, lemme poke around in my notes and see if I can find out if yours is wired for seperate power on the heater and control ckt.

 

[Maxtor]

I have a common power/ground connection for the WB circuit and heater. Power comes from the back of the alternator and ground is connected to the firewall. I have a single wire running to pin F14 in the ECM.

FWIW - Given similar or consistent circumstances, my data from the WB is consistent. I don't know how accurate the calibration is since I have limited experience with this device and have never had another controller on this truck. The readings are close to what I think they should be, mabe a little on the lean side, but I know I'm pushing my fueling limits and masking the issue with alcohol.

I am curious to understand what pitfalls people have seen using one power/ground not tied to the ECM. Any real life examples from people who have done both?

 

[E-Rue]

dave i checked it out again at lunch.


one red and one black for power with a .5a fuse

one purple wire for connection to the ECM

and a plug full of wires that all go to the sensor.


looks like you combined the circuits, but i dont think its a problem. i should have it up and running later this week. i dont have any school next week, if you wanna come down and play with the WB/chipping system. gimme a call.

e

 

[E-Rue]

ok jim has the best idea, cause the back side of those terminals are protected by the heat sink, its gonna be really hard to solder onto the backside of the connector. i know ill have to take the stuff apart later to install the injector drivers, but i wasnt doing that quite yet.

so.... if i move the egr wire over to the F14 location, all my problems will be solved. now...... the scematic says that there is an EVRV on pin#GE9. is this suposed to be the EGRV? typo mabe? it is the correct color?

i should probably just go ahead and install the injector drivers now, but with the heatsink being right over the connectors, im not sure its such a great idea to leave wires under there anyway.

anyone know the correct pin number for the EGR valve?

e

 

[leroy]

GE9 is EGR(EVRV), E. lol

Jim

 

[kwick6]

Electronic Vacuum Regulator Valve, (EVRV) controls the EGR.