Junk in the trunk

Damian

Member
Alright, I want to install the battery, and also a intercooler water box, in the back of the Ty. Questions: anyone done this (I'm sure there has to be a few of you)? How and where did you run the hoses and massive 1 gauge wire? Pictures would be amazing. Once I get them under the truck, that's the easy part, it's getting everything through the floor. Also, what do I need to do to keep it legal for the track?
 

Poconojoe

Donating Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

Just my thoughts, I prefer a battery box that installs through the floor and has a plate covering it. You need to make sure the spot you cut the floor will allow the box to clear the frame and anything else below it. You only need to run 1 wire front since you can use the frame rail as the ground. I run the positive directly to the starter post and take the rest of my power from there. The wire doesn't need to be as heavy if you run a PM starter since they don't pull nearly as much current as starters with field coils in them
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Junk in the trunk

If you do use the frame as a ground you will need to add a ground from the motor to the frame. I used the passenger rear head ground that the OEM battery cable connected to.
 

Neelsonwheels

Donating Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

I have the battery relocated to the rear of my Typhoon. I ran 0 gauge for both the positive and Negative of the battery. Dave P gives solid advice so do your homework. I hit the frame with the - at the rear of the truck then carried it to the engine compartment where I used a distribution block to head out and hit the Transmission case,Fire wall,block(rear of the intake manifold),alternator case,front core support,and a designated wire to the MSD box. All #10.
As for the positive I ran it from the battery + to the engine compartment and made all the connections with a terminal block there. I always solder and crimp my connections. Never rely on a crimp only! No wire nuts or crap like that. I sliced a length of heater hose and inserted the + 0 gauge inside to prevent the chance of rubbing through the jacket. Secured it to the frame and have had zero issues. I am an electrician so this whole thing is pretty easy for me. If you are not comfortable with any of this I suggest having a qualified person do it.
Nobody wants a fire!! It can happen!! believe me. Please be careful and good luck!
 

Slow-Clone

Snow-Clone
Re: Junk in the trunk

Interesting read to stumble across. My truck has the battery in the box in the front passenger corner. Came like that when I bought it. I feel I've got electrical ghosts in the system. Something for me to research I see.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

I'm not planning on doing the battery to the back soon, I'm more interested in doing the water box. I'm just not sure how to run two 3/4" hoses from the back to the front. I'm ditching the electrical fans and going back to mechanical one, too many hassles with it. I'm not in the mood for more electrical problems.
 

anryo

Donating Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

I have the battery relocated to the rear of my Typhoon. I ran 0 gauge for both the positive and Negative of the battery. Dave P gives solid advice so do your homework. I hit the frame with the - at the rear of the truck then carried it to the engine compartment where I used a distribution block to head out and hit the Transmission case,Fire wall,block(rear of the intake manifold),alternator case,front core support,and a designated wire to the MSD box. All #10.
As for the positive I ran it from the battery + to the engine compartment and made all the connections with a terminal block there. I always solder and crimp my connections. Never rely on a crimp only! No wire nuts or crap like that. I sliced a length of heater hose and inserted the + 0 gauge inside to prevent the chance of rubbing through the jacket. Secured it to the frame and have had zero issues. I am an electrician so this whole thing is pretty easy for me. If you are not comfortable with any of this I suggest having a qualified person do it.
Nobody wants a fire!! It can happen!! believe me. Please be careful and good luck!
Also, do not forget to put a fuse right besides the battery, in case something happens with that heavy 0 gauge wire. Better be safe, than worry afterwards.
 
Last edited:

Damian

Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

Font you have to have a battery cut off switch with the battery in the trunk?
 

Neelsonwheels

Donating Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

Disconnect for the drag strip. Fuse for safety. Yes I do have one just forgot to mention it.
 

ziembic

Donating Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

Quoted for truth. I have had the problems that Dave and others are mentioning.

Getting it to crank is nothing, IMO. Easy-peasy. What the relocate really messes with is charging system performance.

A resistance that causes 2V of drop during 100Amps cranking will cause 1V of drop at 50 amps of charging. Starters function just fine at 10 Volts, batteries will not be charged more than 25% at 13Volts, and won't last very long because of chronic undercharging.

The alternators on these trucks regulate the output at the output terminal. Any resistance after the alternator (or in the return ground side) will not be compensated for by the regulator. If the set voltage is 14V, at the output, it will be lower anywhere else in the system regardless of how many or how big the wires are. The greater the resistance, the higher the voltage drop.

There is a terminal on the regulator that can be utilized for remote sensing. The regulator will control output so the set voltage is achieved where ever the other end of the sense wire is connected to.

In my hypothetical 1V drop with a 14V set voltage, connect the sense wire to the battery in the rear of the truck. The regulator will now control output to maintain 14V after the drop. So there will be 15V at the alternator output terminal. Seems good, eh?

Now one more thing. The tuning gurus know more about this than I do, but injectors flow differently depending on voltage. So if your injectors are receiving different voltage than they were tuned with, or the voltage correction tables in the .bin are incorrect, your fueling will be influenced by any changes in system voltage caused by battery relocation and associated changes. Because the injector voltage originates at the rear of the alternator, with 15V instead of the 14V it was tuned with, the injector will deliver more fuel. Again, there are correction tables for voltage, but that doesn't mean they are correct for YOUR injectors.

See? There's a LOT to this isn't there?
 

Aeroking

e.i.
Re: Junk in the trunk

for the battery box, the battery only needs a strap to hold it in place. You can buy any plastic battery box, and drill 2 holes through the floor, run 2 long bolts, or some all-thread from under the cab, up along the battery, and a strap across the top. no need to cut a huge hole in the body.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

Disconnect for the drag strip. Fuse for safety. Yes I do have one just forgot to mention it.
Does it have to be on the outside of the truck or can it be under the hood? If it has to be on the outside, I don't want to do that.
for the ice box, I would use 1" hose, and probably a Rule2000 pump.

Depending on your fabrication skills, you can make an ice box, or buy one like below

http://www.jpcracing.com/aluminum-remote-mount-water-ice-tank-w-internal-pump-33gpm/

You need a good pump, to get from the trunk up to the engine.

there's hundreds of pictures on Yellowbullet if you are looking for ideas.

That's something like the box that I'm wanting. Couple that with a big heat exchanger on the front and that will help keep temps down. I've even tossed around the idea of a bigger intercooler as well.
 

Neelsonwheels

Donating Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

Are you referring to the disconnect? If so yes. The disconnect needs to be accessible
From the outside of the vehicle. The fuse is obvious.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Junk in the trunk

Does it have to be on the outside of the truck or can it be under the hood? If it has to be on the outside, I don't want to do that.


That's something like the box that I'm wanting. Couple that with a big heat exchanger on the front and that will help keep temps down. I've even tossed around the idea of a bigger intercooler as well.

It has to be on the outside rear of the vehicle, it also need to stop the engine when it is disconnected. I made two brackets for mine, one allows it to be visible and another that tucks it up under my bed.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Junk in the trunk

Interesting read to stumble across. My truck has the battery in the box in the front passenger corner. Came like that when I bought it. I feel I've got electrical ghosts in the system. Something for me to research I see.

You probably want to check the grounding. If it isn't ground properly, the ground path will go through the shifter cable to the engine and melt the shifter cable.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Junk in the trunk

I had not thought about the voltage drop for charging performance. I will have to check the difference out some time on my truck. The large gauge wire in theory should have lower resistance which directly affects the voltage drop. My truck does sit in the garage with a battery tender 95% of the time, so that probably helps battery life if I have a charging issue.

I run my positive battery cable to my starter and run a #4 gauge from the starter to alternator. I have an upgrade alternator and my truck has good 'ECM voltage' per my datalogs at WOT 13.2 - 13.3. The ECM gets it power from the back of the alternator, so that shouldn't noticeably affect the injector voltage.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

That's lower than the voltage mine sees, I see 14.4 at the ECU. I did the power wire upgrade with a relay. I don't know, I have tons of wire, connectors, just need an in line fuse or I prefer a circuit breaker. How big of a fuse are you running? I have the 454 starter which I'm assuming uses less power than the stock one.
 

Damian

Member
Re: Junk in the trunk

I have an aftermarket 200 amp alternator, it works really good. Plus I've upgraded to a 4 gauge power wire from alt to battery and added a couple 4 gauge ground wires. I'll take it out this weekend and verify the voltage at WOT.
 
Top