KR issues

[DubJG]

Re: KR issues

What mods have been done to the motor?

i am not aware of any mods to the motor, only exhaust, fp, afpr, and fp hotwire kit. i had read somewhere a claim that the motor was rebuilt but no proof

 

[sy538]

Re: KR issues

Boost is low 15 ( probably at the limit of the 2 bar ) and target is low 14, but the wgdc is not 0. Do you have a good boost gauge? When you say straight pipe, do you have a stock turbo and no cat or muffler?

O2mv is good, IAT is good, Inj DC isn't horrible.

KR starts high in 1st and early in 2nd and tapers down through the run. If you look at knock counts, its all in first or at shift points. If you have a 100 octane mix, I'm thinking your knock may be false.

You need someone that knows this stuff better then me to look at it.

 

[DubJG]

Re: KR issues

Boost is low 15 ( probably at the limit of the 2 bar ) and target is low 14, but the wgdc is not 0. Do you have a good boost gauge? When you say straight pipe, do you have a stock turbo and no cat or muffler?

O2mv is good, IAT is good, Inj DC isn't horrible.

KR starts high in 1st and early in 2nd and tapers down through the run. If you look at knock counts, its all in first or at shift points. If you have a 100 octane mix, I'm thinking your knock may be false.

You need someone that knows this stuff better then me to look at it.

I have a 30 psi max autometer boost gauge that seems to work really well, follows DM readings. Stock turbo but a fairly new one, it was replaced, followed by i think the stock 2.5" dp and an open (no cat no muffler) straight pipe

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: KR issues

i am not aware of any mods to the motor, only exhaust, fp, afpr, and fp hotwire kit. i had read somewhere a claim that the motor was rebuilt but no proof

One of the reasons I asked is that I haven't seen any boost curves look that good on a stock motor... nice and flat.

I'd check your motor mounts. The knock begins before boost and just as you've started to give it a bit of throttle - it could be fuel lines, downpipe, etc.

Your short terms are showing that you're running lean even when pulling away from a stop at no load - it may be a good idea to the take the injectors out and have them cleaned and flow tested.

Lastly, before you do anything check the entire ignition system (plugs, cap, rotor, wires). Make sure they're all in good shape.

 

[sy538]

Re: KR issues

Just to test if the truck can keep boost down, I would disconnect the actuator rod from the wg lever and see if you can still get up to 15 psi.




edit

One of the reasons I asked is that I haven't seen any boost curves look that good on a stock motor... nice and flat.
...

Mine looks flat like that because I'm up over the top of my 2 bar. If boost is actually going up and down from 16 to 18 with a 2 bar it's going to look like a flat line at low 15.

I also have no cat or muffler, but have a 10cm exhaust housing and I can't keep boost down.

 

[DubJG]

Re: KR issues

One of the reasons I asked is that I haven't seen any boost curves look that good on a stock motor... nice and flat.

I'd check your motor mounts. The knock begins before boost and just as you've started to give it a bit of throttle - it could be fuel lines, downpipe, etc.

Your short terms are showing that you're running lean even when pulling away from a stop at no load - it may be a good idea to the take the injectors out and have them cleaned and flow tested.

Lastly, before you do anything check the entire ignition system (plugs, cap, rotor, wires). Make sure they're all in good shape.

The ignition parts are pretty new and made the truck run alot better when i put them on but i'll def check them.

Could solid mounts reduce knock? engine tie down?
Is there anything specific i could look for on the dp or fuel lines?
I can hear an injector ticking and found which one it is (cant remember which one at the moment)
what kind of place will clean and flow test my injectors? or is that something i can do myself

Just to test if the truck can keep boost down, I would disconnect the actuator rod from the wg lever and see if you can still get up to 15 psi.

what psi should i look for with the rod disconnected?

 

[DubJG]

Re: KR issues

Mine looks flat like that because I'm up over the top of my 2 bar. If boost is actually going up and down from 16 to 18 with a 2 bar it's going to look like a flat line at low 15.

I also have no cat or muffler, but have a 10cm exhaust housing and I can't keep boost down.[/QUOTE]


could i be spiking but ecm unable to read it due to the 2bar?

 

[sy538]

Re: KR issues

...
what psi should i look for with the rod disconnected?

In theory it would be 0, but that's not going to happen, I would be very happy if I could get mine down to 12 or 13.

...
could i be spiking but ecm unable to read it due to the 2bar?

Yeah, that's why I asked about a boost gauge. But, yours is better then mine, mine is a perfectly flat line at 15.3 I think, and never moves even a 1/10 of psi. Yours does come down in the 14s at times so you are closer to being able to control boost then I am.

 

[DubJG]

Re: KR issues

In theory it would be 0, but that's not going to happen, I would be very happy if I could get mine down to 12 or 13.



Yeah, that's why I asked about a boost gauge. But, yours is better then mine, mine is a perfectly flat line at 15.3 I think, and never moves even a 1/10 of psi. Yours does come down in the 14s at times so you are closer to being able to control boost then I am.

I've been thinking about putting a high flow cat and muffler on to get some back pressure to help control boost but not sure if thats the right way to go

 

[sy538]

Re: KR issues

I changed the exhaust housing instead of adding a cat, and would do it again for sure, I just wish I would have either ported the wastegate on the 10 cm or got a 12cm instead.

It just seems completely backwards to me to want to slow down the exhaust in a turbo vehicle, but it does work to keep boost in check.

I do think you are over boosting a little bit, but I still think your knock is likely false.

 

[DubJG]

Re: KR issues

I changed the exhaust housing instead of adding a cat, and would do it again for sure, I just wish I would have either ported the wastegate on the 10 cm or got a 12cm instead.

It just seems completely backwards to me to want to slow down the exhaust in a turbo vehicle, but it does work to keep boost in check.

I do think you are over boosting a little bit, but I still think your knock is likely false.

I agree about slowing the exhaust other than strictly for controlling boost. the added power of a free flowing exhaust is nice if you can keep it safe of course. Is there any way to check for false knock other than listening and feeling around for loose stuff? Im guessing no. . .

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: KR issues

Ah, when you said your Autometer was following DM, I assumed it was showing the same max. Apparently the Autometer is showing more boost than DM.

I wouldn't use solid mounts, but I'd sure recommend a torque strap. Look at the downpipe to see is it looks like it could vibrate against the engine or cab when running.

Your WGDC looks like it should be more than capable of controlling your boost.... a tune should be able to keep it in check. Check your wastegate rod for proper adjustment too.

 

[DubJG]

Re: KR issues

Ah, when you said your Autometer was following DM, I assumed it was showing the same max. Apparently the Autometer is showing more boost than DM.

I wouldn't use solid mounts, but I'd sure recommend a torque strap. Look at the downpipe to see is it looks like it could vibrate against the engine or cab when running.

Your WGDC looks like it should be more than capable of controlling your boost.... a tune should be able to keep it in check. Check your wastegate rod for proper adjustment too.

Just did a quick WOT run down the road and the initial boost increase in first gear that reads 15.4 on DM was around 18 or so on the autometer. The rest of the run was about the same on DM and autometer.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: KR issues

Your overboosting. The 15.4 your reading in scan tool is the value the 2 map will read. I would trust what your boost gauge is reading.

 

[DubJG]

Re: KR issues

Your overboosting. The 15.4 your reading in scan tool is the value the 2 map will read. I would trust what your boost gauge is reading.

Since its really only in 1st gear can i cure this when i get into code 59 or is it mechanical? Wasregate adjustment? Lack of back pressure? Boost controller?

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: KR issues

I would check the wastergate rod adjustment and vacuum lines going to the wastegate actuator & solenoid. it might be the catless exhuast, as that would to tend to cause initial boost spikes and boost creep.