Locking header bolt questions

crashing_sux

crashing_sux

Blow Me?
I finally decided to dig in and replace my plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. While I was in there I checked my header bolts since I have an exhaust leak there and found every bolt to be finger tight!

Should there have been some sort of locktite or anti-sieze in there? It just amazes me that all of them were loose, 3 of them were locking bolts and they were loose too. Guess they don't lock so great?

On that subject, does anyone know how tight I should get them? I have three ATR regular hex head bolts, and three locking bolts that are a hex head but have a socket head as well (looks like you can tighten it with an allen wrench, could you really get any torque that way?), there is a washer that is flat on one side and sits up against the pipe, and has a hex cutout in the center so that once you slip it over the head of the bolt, then put the E-clip over it the bolt shouldn't be able to loosen.

But, they were still finger tight, wiggling around even, how does that happen, and how do I make sure it doesn't happen again?

While I'm at it I'm replacing the header gasket, is there any sort of prep I need to do or just slap the new gasket in there dry and torque it down? What about between the header (collector?) and the pipe going to the turbo? That has a small leak as well and when I pulled it apart I realized that while it was tight there was no gasket in there, and it doesn't really look like there should be one in there but what do I know, and if there isn't supposed to be a gasket in there then how do I stop the leak?

I'm searching the archives as well since I imagine someone probably covered the gasket side of things allready but I figured the locking header bolt torque might be a little more obscure so I'm just going to beg for help on that one.
 
B

Boosted

New member
I would look at stage 8 stuff. They have a teardrop piece that is held on by a clip. The teardrop sits up against the primary tube of the header and physically stops the bolt from loosening. Really cool idea.
 
crashing_sux

crashing_sux

Blow Me?
Thanks, that's exactly what I have, just didn't know it until now :D

Initially I thought they weren't holding correctly but I realized after I got my header off that the header gasket was copper. Don't you have to tighten those, run the engine a few times, then re-tighten them? If that's the case then maybe they held just fine but the installer neglected to re-torque them after the initial build.

I wonder if I can re-use this copper gasket if I clean it up a little. It's bent slightly, warped a little from me not being careful when I removed it but there are no creases or kinks so I'm thinking I'll just put it on and see what happens.
 
Windedv6

Windedv6

Ty n 10s
I keep having leaks with my copper gaskets. Threw them away and do not use any gaskets. No leaks for 2.5 years. Clean everything good and use the red Hi-temp. I do the same for the turbo gaskets. I run 28-30# boost and no leaks.

John
 
crashing_sux

crashing_sux

Blow Me?
I've never had great luck with that stuff in the past but maybe I wasn't careful enough. Is this with headers or the stock manifold (or does it matter)?

So the basic idea is clean the headers and around the exhaust ports, put a thin beat of red high-temp (is that rtv?) on the headers, (do I let it partially or fully dry first?), then bolt it together.

Sound right?
 
Try Me

Try Me

New member
i bought those locking bolts from summit (cant remember the brand) that use an allen screw inside the bolt head that splits the threaded end open as you tighten the allen head. They were over $40 for the set but its worth every penny. i put those in with regular off-the-shelf gaskets from napa and some ultra-black silicone and didnt have a single on back out or leak the entire time i ran them this past summer. the reason header gaskets blow is from the header coming loose.

Also, you can reuse just about any copper gasket
 
Windedv6

Windedv6

Ty n 10s
crashing_sux said:
I've never had great luck with that stuff in the past but maybe I wasn't careful enough. Is this with headers or the stock manifold (or does it matter)?

So the basic idea is clean the headers and around the exhaust ports, put a thin beat of red high-temp (is that rtv?) on the headers, (do I let it partially or fully dry first?), then bolt it together.

Sound right?
Click to expand...


I have ATR headers...High temp rtv... and let it get a little tacky.

John
 
mrweelr

mrweelr

New member
Re: Locking header bolt questions

I have ATR headers with Stage 8 locking hardware. Just used a thin coat of hi-temp RTV before assembly. So far, no leaks.
 
V

V

Donating Member
Re: Locking header bolt questions

crashing_sux said:
What about between the header (collector?) and the pipe going to the turbo? That has a small leak as well and when I pulled it apart I realized that while it was tight there was no gasket in there, and it doesn't really look like there should be one in there but what do I know, and if there isn't supposed to be a gasket in there then how do I stop the leak?
Click to expand...
I believe your flange leak is common, but rarely reported. The ATR flange doesn't match a standard T3 exhaust housing very well. :tdown: Save up for a better set of headers. :tdown: ;)
 
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