long rod motors
- Thread starter canadian
- Start date
Much shorter piston height = weaker.
I don't recommmend it at all for a Syty buildup. If it was a high revving NA application, where you could give up some piston strength, fine.
If we could do it and not give up piston strength, ok.
It may be almost possible to do it (and still feel relatively safe) with the Vortecs, as I believe they have a bit more chamber volume.
I don't recommmend it at all for a Syty buildup. If it was a high revving NA application, where you could give up some piston strength, fine.
If we could do it and not give up piston strength, ok.
It may be almost possible to do it (and still feel relatively safe) with the Vortecs, as I believe they have a bit more chamber volume.
Christian Dionne
Member
Warren, we built Tom a 6" rod, 8.5:1, SRP piston engine for his twin turbo build. Looking at the piston, there's just not enough material above the top ring. JE piston said we got the wrong piston, but even still, there's just not alot of room for rings above a 6" rod. Maybe that's why Lingenfelter loves 5.85 rods for his SBC NA buildups?
I'd say just stick with the 5.7" unless that last bit of power is needed, like class racing or something.
This is a frequent topic in the "Advanced Tech" section of CamaroZ28.com and the result is usually something sorta like I said.
I'd say just stick with the 5.7" unless that last bit of power is needed, like class racing or something.
This is a frequent topic in the "Advanced Tech" section of CamaroZ28.com and the result is usually something sorta like I said.
Lynn D. Brown
New member
Long Rods
Long Rods
Originally Randy of Conleys' was looking @ 6" rods for my Bowtie project.
I guess it will give U more stroke and torque. Randy is no longer there,
so I looked into it myself. The rods have to be custom made, so that is
no problem, but when I called J&E direct, they said that they didn't have a
piston for that application.
Long Rods
Originally Randy of Conleys' was looking @ 6" rods for my Bowtie project.
I guess it will give U more stroke and torque. Randy is no longer there,
so I looked into it myself. The rods have to be custom made, so that is
no problem, but when I called J&E direct, they said that they didn't have a
piston for that application.
Christian Dionne said:
This is good advice, I went through the same thing when I built my motor. Norm at Ultratech has 20 years experience building the 4.3's, built tons of ASA stuff etc and I eventually went with the 5.7" rods. Keep the following things in mind, if you go with the 6" rod you'll have to give up piston thickness which is a turbo no-no. If you compromise a bit and say stay stock stroke with a 5.85" rod and a true turbo piston what will happen is upon TDC the piston will be "out of the hole" and this greatly heats the pistons and rings which is not good. Also depending on how thick your piston is if you use 5.7" rods with a crank of 3.50 or greater you may run the risk of having to have the counterweights cut down so the assembly can rotate, of course it will need to be rebalanced. We know the stock block and crank are pretty stout if prepped correctly, you'd be wise sticking with the 5.7" rods and nice thick turbo piston...its safer and stronger and will allow you to run more boost. I'd say spend your money on good rods and pistons to make that short block as strong as possible. Then once you've got this down focus on picking the right heads/cam/turbo combination. I'd love to see someone slap a set of 18 degree heads on one of these builds, run a similar cam to what BG used to use with say a 72-76 series turbo and you could make some wicked power without revving beyond say 5,800RPMS and of course make a ton of torque.
Ryan
'92 TY
Some HP and some torques